2025 Suspension Recommendations (by Snacktime)

[nolimits]

looking at the compressed length on my procomp front coilovers and hearing/feeling a rub at speed over some bumps with 37s I ordered a 3/4” body lift but did not get it installed before snow run last weekend…hit a good hole and seriously bottomed out..tire hit rock light mount and tore inner liner up…haven’t actually heard of bottoming problems with procomp and 37 but here is mine…anyone have opinions on dv8/hook/stock liners…

I think @popo_patty was/is running the DV8 liners. Saw a video where he was testing some suspension. Best I recall they didn’t provide the clearance they were advertised to deliver but I’m sure he can expand on that.

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[popo_patty]

I think @popo_patty was/is running the DV8 liners. Saw a video where he was testing some suspension. Best I recall they didn’t provide the clearance they were advertised to deliver but I’m sure he can expand on that.

The DV8’s I had, provided 1/4” of up travel clearance over stock. They opened the the front almost 1/2”. The rear of the wheel well didn’t change. Downside is that the metal grabs your tire and pulls the whole liner if it touches vs stock. Mine have been damaged beyond repair and the liners have pulled out or snapped some of the stock liner mounts as the plastic mounts are now weaker then the metal liner.

Now, in utmost honesty, DV8 has since changed the wording of their website to clarify that it is not as much a clearancing mode anymore vs their original advertising that they would clear 37’s without any other mods. They were also super awesome and are sending me a new version of their liner soon to replace my original set to give some feedback. There are some key differences to the new liner I’m told but I havnt seen them yet.
As it stands for the OG set, they look good but don’t add true clearance to speak of in the fender well. A few influencers have said they do but they also cut theirs or trimmed or sent running 37’s so I’m sure they had the same issues I did. Make sure you properly clearance them. I had to cut a significant amount of the old liners off to avoid rubbing/pulling on them.
As for the new sets, I’ll be posting up once I have them installed and try them out.
DV8 is a great company with some awesome products and good customer service so I’m not bashing them. (Huge fan of their overhead molle and dash mount).

 

[DaveInSA]

This is the current recommendation on how to choose your lift. I no longer recommend spacer lifts, this is due to possible cv axle damage and added wear to front differential seals. I am also not recommending lift springs since they don't always net the same lift and that you need more shock to control them. I have become much less concerned with suspension travel as we find the limits of stock parts. This is based on running stock parts like factory cv-axles which is the biggest limiting factor to lifts.

0-2" Lift on 35s from Malls to Mild Trails -Your not going to disrupt the driving characteristics or effect long term reliability

• Perch collars, stiffens the ride and okay if low mileage.
• 5100s Bilsteins are the cheapest recommendable shock replacement, they have better dampening with increased road feedback. Best option for NON-SAS Broncos.
• 6100s Bilsteins are an upgrade over 5100, they are better suited to bigger tires only work on SAS broncos. Best option for SAS Broncos.
• Eibach Stage 2.0 Pro Truck with normal springs, "subjective" but most likely the best ride, they are designed for less road feedback. Best option for a 35" and smaller tire and if you are fairly stock. Have easy adjustment to get that perfect lift.

What's considered 'low mileage'?

Would like to add just a little bit more clearance after going to everglades 35" wheels/tires on my non-sas badlands. At 31,000 miles, wondering if perch collars wouldn't be a good choice.

 

[JMontes]

Installed the RC Vertex 3.5 kit on my 24 non-SAS OBX as well as some 17" SAS take-offs this past weekend

About 150 miles. Love the results and ride/drive quality so far and it looks great.

 

[TXAstro]

I have a 2024 Everglades will be installing Dobinsons MRR suspension with RJ anti rock front sway in next few weeks. Will report results when all done and get time on trails to adjust.

 

[Snacktime]

What's considered 'low mileage'?

Would like to add just a little bit more clearance after going to everglades 35" wheels/tires on my non-sas badlands. At 31,000 miles, wondering if perch collars wouldn't be a good choice.

It is a factor of how long shocks last and if you live in the rust belt. Need to inspect your shocks and decide if it is worth it. I would not put perch collars on as the shocks with any sign of rust as that seems to be a common thing on the failed sas shocks.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

What's considered 'low mileage'?

Would like to add just a little bit more clearance after going to everglades 35" wheels/tires on my non-sas badlands. At 31,000 miles, wondering if perch collars wouldn't be a good choice.

It is a factor of how long shocks last and if you live in the rust belt. Need to inspect your shocks and decide if it is worth it. I would not put perch collars on as the shocks with any sign of rust as that seems to be a common thing on the failed sas shocks.

I'm not sure if Snacktime would agree, but I would also take into account if you were installing yourself or having it done for you. If you get a good deal on perch collars and install yourself you honestly can't beat the cost benefit if you're trying to get more mileage out of your factory suspension but want a little bit of lift. If you're having someone else install them, it may not be worth it.

 

[CoolContractor]

I have a 2024 Everglades will be installing Dobinsons MRR suspension with RJ anti rock front sway in next few weeks. Will report results when all done and get time on trails to adjust.

Did you install your lift yet?

 

[scrumdidlyumptious]

Thanks for the detailed explanations; it was helpful to get a high-level understanding of what works for what trims/usage.

One question I did have was from the perspective of a non-SAS (OBX); if cost is somewhat of a non-factor (or at least I’m willing to invest more to have better long-term QoL) and I’m doing primarily on-road daily driving with some occasional light weekend off-roading (easy trails in different areas: (beach, mountain, desert), are the 5100s still the recommended for overall ride/comfort? Or is it worth going with the Eibachs for a better overall quality?

I’d planned to run 35 A/T KO2’s I’d picked up from a friend. But otherwise would probably leaving whatever else I could stock, for simplicity sake.

Appreciate any advice.

 

[crenca]

are the 5100s still the recommended for overall ride/comfort? Or is it worth going with the Eibachs for a better overall quality?

Check out ShockSurplus's YouTube page where they do a good job of reviewing various shock (and any associated lift) installs on the Bronco. For me and my ride and application preferences, 5100's would be better (bonus being they would be cheaper as well), though 6100's would be even better. However for your ride/application preferences, you might decide the qualities of the Eiboach's are your choice...

 

[userdude]

Thanks for the detailed explanations; it was helpful to get a high-level understanding of what works for what trims/usage.

One question I did have was from the perspective of a non-SAS (OBX); if cost is somewhat of a non-factor (or at least I’m willing to invest more to have better long-term QoL) and I’m doing primarily on-road daily driving with some occasional light weekend off-roading (easy trails in different areas: (beach, mountain, desert), are the 5100s still the recommended for overall ride/comfort? Or is it worth going with the Eibachs for a better overall quality?

I’d planned to run 35 A/T KO2’s I’d picked up from a friend. But otherwise would probably leaving whatever else I could stock, for simplicity sake.

Appreciate any advice.

Second what @crenca said, and will add that shocks are oftentimes a personal experience. One person's great is another person's hate. Also, the shocks I'm sure you're willing to pay for will be fairly similar if you stay away from things like Kings or 8112s, which can be rebuilt and last a very long time.

I'd investigate the cheapest option you're looking at (5112's I assume, which matches your use case) and make sure you're ok with that, and look elsewhere if you're not (6112s, Eibach Pro Trucks). I suspect the 5112's will be just fine for most people. You definitely won't need reservoirs, wider shocks and other advanced features.

Nothing worse than putting $2k worth of shocks and more for labor only to hate the shock and replace it. And with shocks, the more expensive, the more specialized the ride, the easier it is to be unhappy.

 

[scrumdidlyumptious]

Second what @crenca said, and will add that shocks are oftentimes a personal experience. One person's great is another person's hate. Also, the shocks I'm sure you're willing to pay for will be fairly similar if you stay away from things like Kings or 8112s, which can be rebuilt and last a very long time.

I'd investigate the cheapest option you're looking at (5112's I assume, which matches your use case) and make sure you're ok with that, and look elsewhere if you're not (6112s, Eibach Pro Trucks). I suspect the 5112's will be just fine for most people. You definitely won't need reservoirs, wider shocks and other advanced features.

Nothing worse than putting $2k worth of shocks and more for labor only to hate the shock and replace it. And with shocks, the more expensive, the more specialized the ride, the easier it is to be unhappy.

Yeah, I kinda assumed the 5100/12s will be what I’d be content with but just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something before pulling the trigger. I’m definitely not going to be doing anything heavy (at least anytime soon).

Definitely going to check out that channel though.

 

[Snacktime]

Yeah, I kinda assumed the 5100/12s will be what I’d be content with but just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something before pulling the trigger. I’m definitely not going to be doing anything heavy (at least anytime soon).

Definitely going to check out that channel though.

Same debate I had when doing my wife's F150. I went Eibach to be different and at 150k miles I didn't want to fight disassembling struts.

Both Eibach and 5100 are progressive shocks the difference is the Stage 2 eibach come with progressive springs. If you want a softer ride the Eibach Stage 2 and 5100 will ride more truck like due to the stiffer stock Hitachi springs. 5100s with Hitachi springs is a good combination for a heavy rig.

 

[GTS104]

I would budget for adjusting the 6112. You will most likely end up with stinkbug or carolina squat that can be corrected with the shock adjustment. You will have to drive around a month for the springs to settle in. I like the Icons but really 4wp coilovers are to cheap to pass up but they may be to much lift.

You can always stack a little to adjust if needed. You can use the round spacers in this kit to help level out a little as they fit front and back.
https://www.roughcountry.com/produc...2IS2Y70W2GNSNesHm-P4-jD-mdgSwrcxoCFQMQAvD_BwE

Question on spacer vs perch adjustment to achieve approx 1" lift Rear. Just ordered the 6112 to basically level an existing 2 Door SAS. When I put the roof rack on with weight and add about 40lbs to the spare tire. it required me to put the spacers on like you mentioned to get it back level. (about 1" rear) on the stock SAS suspension. My dilemma is when I install the 6112s do I keep the 6112 on the lowest setting and keep the added spacers (on rear) or adjust the perch? Would adding height by the perch help control bottoming with the spring stiffer or keeping the spring at full range with spacers allow for more room to collapse spring. Also the rig has Nitto Trail Grap 35s which are considerably heavier than the stocks which the extra unsprung weight its got me wondering if the perch collar raise might control the dampening better at the beginning of the compression cycle or would it just transfer into a harder ride.
I am hoping the bilstein springs are stiffer than the stock SAS spring for what seems to be springs that give up rather quick on the rear. FYI I mostly do slow Crawl wheeling and Overlanding and not blasting dunes.


EDIT## Also like to keep my current 1" level spacer Rough Country lift on front to and raise the clip to second setting to try to maintain as much usable travel as possible. To my understanding the 1' spacer lift (on any setting on the 6112 perch clip) should keep the CV angle at full droop in the "Safe Zone". Am I correct on this?

Thanks @Snacktime !!

 

[telenerd]

Question on spacer vs perch adjustment to achieve approx 1" lift Rear. Just ordered the 6112 to basically level an existing 2 Door SAS. When I put the roof rack on with weight and add about 40lbs to the spare tire. it required me to put the spacers on like you mentioned to get it back level. (about 1" rear) on the stock SAS suspension. My dilemma is when I install the 6112s do I keep the 6112 on the lowest setting and keep the added spacers (on rear) or adjust the perch? Would adding height by the perch help control bottoming with the spring stiffer or keeping the spring at full range with spacers allow for more room to collapse spring. Also the rig has Nitto Trail Grap 35s which are considerably heavier than the stocks which the extra unsprung weight its got me wondering if the perch collar raise might control the dampening better at the beginning of the compression cycle or would it just transfer into a harder ride.
I am hoping the bilstein springs are stiffer than the stock SAS spring for what seems to be springs that give up rather quick on the rear. FYI I mostly do slow Crawl wheeling and Overlanding and not blasting dunes.

Im going with circlip 4 in the front and Circlip 2 in the back. I’m just looking to level my bronco according to my measurements I need to bring the front up 1.5 inches and the rear only has to come up .5 inches. I got 2 door Sas with 200lbs belly pan skids, steel rock sliders, and stock bumpers.

To measure what setting you need measure from the middle of the hub to the fender edge do the front and then the back. Then look at the Bilstein charts and see what you need. See link.

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/level.png

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