2025 Suspension Recommendations (by Snacktime)

[nolimits]

I have a 4dr badlands non SAS with 35” wildtrack wheels on it currenlty. I’m getting the Ford Performance 2” lift coilovers put on tomorrow. I’ve read thru this thread but a little confused now, what should i expect for lift height out of the ford performance coilovers on my non sas badlands? From what i read here it looks like I’ll gain about 3/4-1” over a stock SAS height and about 1-1.5” over current ride height?

I would hold off on this & do some more research. My understanding was the FP lift kit doesn’t have any adjustability and basically gets non-SAS Broncos to SAS level.

The caveat being you have a Badlands non-SAS which is only about 0.43” lower than the SAS. Both Badlands non-SAS and all SAS models get the HOSS 2.0 (Bilsteins) suspension. Granted, SAS version is slightly different with reservoirs being located slightly different and SAS having different bump stops so while slightly taller has less articulation than the Badlands non-SAS suspension.

So the Badlands non-SAS is special to other lower trim non-SAS models that have HOSS 1.0 (Hitachi) suspension. I believe the gains reported for the FP kit are based on lifting a non-SAS with HOSS 1.0.

Consequently, that kit won’t do a ton for you IMO, and it’s expensive. Hence my thoughts to pause and research a bit more.

Someone please correct me if I’m wrong on any of this.

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[Trilifter7]

I would hold off on this & do some more research. My understanding was the FP lift kit doesn’t have any adjustability and basically gets non-SAS Broncos to SAS level.

The caveat being you have a Badlands non-SAS which is only about 0.43” lower than the SAS. Both Badlands non-SAS and all SAS models get the HOSS 2.0 (Bilsteins) suspension. Granted, SAS version is slightly different with reservoirs being located slightly different and SAS having different bump stops so while slightly taller has less articulation than the Badlands non-SAS suspension.

So the Badlands non-SAS is special to other lower trim non-SAS models that have HOSS 1.0 (Hitachi) suspension. I believe the gains reported for the FP kit are based on lifting a non-SAS with HOSS 1.0.

Consequently, that kit won’t do a ton for you IMO, and it’s expensive. Hence my thoughts to pause and research a bit more.

Someone please correct me if I’m wrong on any of this.

We had it put on Thursday and I’m happy with them. It netted about 1“ taller in the front and 1.5” in the rear. Yes it was expensive but to me it was worth what i was going for. We were .43” lower than a factory sas with wildtrack wheels, we are now .5” taller than a factory sas. The ride is much better with the 2.5” shock body on the 6100’s. It actually feels less harsh and little bumps feel more subtle and it eats up bigger bumps much better! No more nose dive on braking and cornering is much improved. Now i don’t have to worry about the factory shocks going out and I’m within spec on CV angle but got enough lift to do anything I’ll be doing with ours. If the Eibach pro truck setup was any softer than this i don’t think I’d be happy with it. The 6100’s with factory SAS coils might have been slightly better for the adjustability to go a little higher but then you risk CV angle issues and for me that just wasn’t worth it. Overall the improvements in ride and height were exactly what i was going for and I’m glad I had it done.

 

[nolimits]

We had it put on Thursday and I’m happy with them. It netted about 1“ taller in the front and 1.5” in the rear. Yes it was expensive but to me it was worth what i was going for. We were .43” lower than a factory sas with wildtrack wheels, we are now .5” taller than a factory sas. The ride is much better with the 2.5” shock body on the 6100’s. It actually feels less harsh and little bumps feel more subtle and it eats up bigger bumps much better! No more nose dive on braking and cornering is much improved. Now i don’t have to worry about the factory shocks going out and I’m within spec on CV angle but got enough lift to do anything I’ll be doing with ours. If the Eibach pro truck setup was any softer than this i don’t think I’d be happy with it. The 6100’s with factory SAS coils might have been slightly better for the adjustability to go a little higher but then you risk CV angle issues and for me that just wasn’t worth it. Overall the improvements in ride and height were exactly what i was going for and I’m glad I had it done.

Glad to hear this worked out well for you, and the results were exactly what you wanted. Hard to put a price on satisfaction.

Good luck on the trails. Look forward to seeing photos and videos of your future adventures.

 

[Felix808]

@Trilifter7 It's always good when you are satisfied with the outcome .

Keep in mind, the lift will settle in a few weeks of driving. Remeasure thereafter & report back your findings if you would to help others

 

[LouBinWNC]

local shop asked me to supply parts, I am between the Bilstien 5100 or the EiBach for my 2DR Black Diamond Non-SaS.

recommendation on who to purchase from?

 

[PWillette]

local shop asked me to supply parts, I am between the Bilstien 5100 or the EiBach for my 2DR Black Diamond Non-SaS.

recommendation on who to purchase from?

For the Eibachs check out Panda Motorwerks, they run some pretty good deals. Not sure if they sell Bilstiens.

 

[Caleb@PandaMotorworks]

local shop asked me to supply parts, I am between the Bilstien 5100 or the EiBach for my 2DR Black Diamond Non-SaS.

recommendation on who to purchase from?

Go with the Eibachs, you wont be disappointed. I have them in stock and can do a great deal on them. Messaged you pricing!

 

[BroncoBoz]

New Bronco owners here are looking for some advice.

Currently, I do mostly city driving but I am looking forward to more off-roading later.

I purchased a 2024 Bronco Wildtrak. I want to keep the HOSS 3.0 and add some lift to put on 37s.

I am in the process of installing an RPG Off-Road spring perch collar kit. The front lift will be 3”, and the rear lift will be 2.5”. I am paring that with RPG Off-Road Billet Upper Control Arms.

My question is, are there other parts I “should” be adding in addition to what I already listed so I don’t wear out my suspension components faster than normal?

If not, then after I install these parts, is there a priority order as to which additional parts to add later?

RPG Off-Road lists:

• Billet Rear Lower Links
• Billet Rear Upper Links
• Billet Panhard Bar
• Heim Steering Tie Rod
• Billet Half Tie Rod.

I want to understand more about what I “need” vs “nice to have” to help support the suspension components. This way I don't waste money buying parts I don't need.

Thanks for your advice.

 

[Snacktime]

New Bronco owners here are looking for some advice.

Currently, I do mostly city driving but I am looking forward to more off-roading later.

I purchased a 2024 Bronco Wildtrak. I want to keep the HOSS 3.0 and add some lift to put on 37s.

I am in the process of installing an RPG Off-Road spring perch collar kit. The front lift will be 3”, and the rear lift will be 2.5”. I am paring that with RPG Off-Road Billet Upper Control Arms.

My question is, are there other parts I “should” be adding in addition to what I already listed so I don’t wear out my suspension components faster than normal?

If not, then after I install these parts, is there a priority order as to which additional parts to add later?

RPG Off-Road lists:

• Billet Rear Lower Links
• Billet Rear Upper Links
• Billet Panhard Bar
• Heim Steering Tie Rod
• Billet Half Tie Rod.

I want to understand more about what I “need” vs “nice to have” to help support the suspension components. This way I don't waste money buying parts I don't need.

Thanks for your advice.

You want to much collar lift for the stock Hoss 3.0 suspension. Most aftermarket coilovers start adding length with a 3" lift. You are really limiting your droop with a 3" front collar lift on stock length shocks. The front suspension would have very limited droop and not drive well over pot holes. I would go with a 1-2" collar lift and get addition tire clearance with a 1/2" to 3/4" body lift. Maybe even add a rough country front leveling kit, use 2 of the 3 spacers for more lift in the front.

The upper control arms are also something I would suggest looking into bushing instead of heims. Heims and Nebraska weather is not a long term setup.

RPG Off-Road lists:

• Billet Rear Lower Links - Waste of money untill you bend your stock lower links, strongly suggest steel. if you are bend them its from impacts and steel is the solution.
• Billet Rear Upper Links - Waste of money

My take on upgraded rear link joints is they free up resistance to flex. This is very beneficial to slow speed crawling and flex. The Bronco seems to wheel better with a rear sway bar and have better on road qualities. I wouldn't add rear links for anything other than a dedicated crawler. The stiffer factory joints add roll resistance, this act like a sway bar and add performance by forcing the front to do more work. Factory rear links are not a limiting factor and will last much longer than aftermarket options.

• Billet Panhard Bar - $100 drop bracket is the correct fix not a longer bar.
• Heim Steering Tie Rod - Waste of money, stock HOSS 3.0 has the best combination of tie rod to actual steering strength. You have the best tie rods for long term use and reduced chance of steering rack damage.
• Billet Half Tie Rod. - Waste of money

Don't get sold on a product catalog. Lot of these brands focus on a certain environment or use. I hate mix and matching but environment factors into what works. I would say your most likely to wheel Moab so I would focus on not rubbing, lower lift and skids/sliders.

 

[87-Z28]

You want to much collar lift for the stock Hoss 3.0 suspension. Most aftermarket coilovers start adding length with a 3" lift. You are really limiting your droop with a 3" front collar lift on stock length shocks. The front suspension would have very limited droop and not drive well over pot holes. I would go with a 1-2" collar lift and get addition tire clearance with a 1/2" to 3/4" body lift. Maybe even add a rough country front leveling kit, use 2 of the 3 spacers for more lift in the front.

The upper control arms are also something I would suggest looking into bushing instead of heims. Heims and Nebraska weather is not a long term setup.

RPG Off-Road lists:

• Billet Rear Lower Links - Waste of money untill you bend your stock lower links, strongly suggest steel. if you are bend them its from impacts and steel is the solution.
• Billet Rear Upper Links - Waste of money

My take on upgraded rear link joints is they free up resistance to flex. This is very beneficial to slow speed crawling and flex. The Bronco seems to wheel better with a rear sway bar and have better on road qualities. I wouldn't add rear links for anything other than a dedicated crawler. The stiffer factory joints add roll resistance, this act like a sway bar and add performance by forcing the front to do more work. Factory rear links are not a limiting factor and will last much longer than aftermarket options.

• Billet Panhard Bar - $100 drop bracket is the correct fix not a longer bar.
• Heim Steering Tie Rod - Waste of money, stock HOSS 3.0 has the best combination of tie rod to actual steering strength. You have the best tie rods for long term use and reduced chance of steering rack damage.
• Billet Half Tie Rod. - Waste of money

Don't get sold on a product catalog. Lot of these brands focus on a certain environment or use. I hate mix and matching but environment factors into what works. I would say your most likely to wheel Moab so I would focus on not rubbing, lower lift and skids/sliders.

everyone on the fence should read this post. Excellent advice here for most.

 

[bmhenry]

@Snacktime Ok.. Here we go... I have read all 11 pages of this thread and your excel file - Here is the situation.. Badlands SAS on 37s - added the ford Winch kit to the bumper - as well as trans skid, diff skid rear, A arm skids, and sliders. front end now sags as one would expect. Would like to get the front end up but the goal is not a lift per say - I prefer flex and droop over lift. Would the Ebiach 2.0 truck springs be the ticket? Just really kinda lost in all this. suggestions appreciated by anyone.

 

[Bucking_Will]

Ok so I have 24 4dr wildtrack so hoss 3.0 with eibach springs 1.9 front and 1.3 rear with a 1in body lift….. 2 questions
1 do I need UCA zone or 4wp/pro comp
2 how can I get a little more lift say another inch or so and would it be safe (don’t want to change the stock fox shocks)

 

[bigbendsasquatch]

So, if I’m reading everything right, on my 2 door Big Bend SAS, a 2” perch collar lift is ok? Mine is a daily driver, will be doing some occasional wheeling.

 

[mpeugeot]

Ok so I have 24 4dr wildtrack so hoss 3.0 with eibach springs 1.9 front and 1.3 rear with a 1in body lift….. 2 questions
1 do I need UCA zone or 4wp/pro comp
2 how can I get a little more lift say another inch or so and would it be safe (don’t want to change the stock fox shocks)

You probably will still be able to get the suspension in proper alignment specs without UCAs with just the springs.

 

[Oldhippie]

looking at the compressed length on my procomp front coilovers and hearing/feeling a rub at speed over some bumps with 37s I ordered a 3/4” body lift but did not get it installed before snow run last weekend…hit a good hole and seriously bottomed out..tire hit rock light mount and tore inner liner up…haven’t actually heard of bottoming problems with procomp and 37 but here is mine…anyone have opinions on dv8/hook/stock liners…

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