Diff & TC fluids changed out.

[Tyistick]

Definitely would change yours @10k Especially if you have been in water deeper than the axels. In fact I would change my diffs in my Jeep after every deep water adventure

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[CarbonSteel]

I was think about doing with my first oil change at 5k. is it better to wait in tell 15k not sure if ford put brake an oil in the diff.

There is no break-in gear oil. Ford installed standard Motorcraft 75W-85 gear oil in it.

 

[Snacktime]

My front diff fluid was still good color but had lots of metal at 5k. I would change it at the second motor oil change.

 

[Aonarch]

Definitely would change yours @10k Especially if you have been in water deeper than the axels. In fact I would change my diffs in my Jeep after every deep water adventure

Yup, you should change diff fluid after each wheeling day going through water.

 

[0ne]

Some conflicting information in this thread with regards to fluid type and viscosity. Am I correct that both flavors of axles/differentials use brand-of-choice in 75w-85 not 75w-140, automatic transmission uses Mercon ULV and transfer case uses Mercon LV not Mercon V? Manufacturer recommended replacement mileage is 150k for all unless severe service or water fording? 60k for automatic transmission based on fluid condition observations of a professional Ford technician?

 

[NC_Pinz]

Proof is documented. Not sure I’d go 25k without fluid changes.

Agree 100%. The fluid you drained out and what was remaining on the drain magnets proves you were spot on to change the fluid.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Some conflicting information in this thread with regards to fluid type and viscosity. Am I correct that both flavors of axles/differentials use brand-of-choice in 75w-85 not 75w-140, automatic transmission uses Mercon ULV and transfer case uses Mercon LV not Mercon V? Manufacturer recommended replacement mileage is 150k for all unless severe service or water fording? 60k for automatic transmission based on fluid condition observations of a professional Ford technician?

If sticking to the Ford recommendations, it is:


Front Axle = Motorcraft 80W-90
Transmission = Motorcraft Mercon ULV
Transfer Case = Motorcraft Mercon LV
Rear Axle = Motorcraft 75W-85

I deviated in the front axle (used 75W-110 because I had it) and rear axle (used 75W-140 because I had it).

With that said, Dana specifies 75W-140 in both the M210 (front axle) and M220 (rear axle).

 

[Ducati1098]

Manufacturer recommended replacement mileage is 150k for all unless severe service or water fording? 60k for automatic transmission based on fluid condition observations of a professional Ford technician?

60k is just typically when I start to see ULV getting darker on most 10R’s. That doesn’t necessarily mean anything is wrong with the fluid or transmission. But personally that’s probably the time that I’ll start to consider changing it out. Could it last until 100-150k? Maybe. But I have enough transmissions to rebuild without mine being one of them

 

[Rednek]

60k is just typically when I start to see ULV getting darker on most 10R’s. That doesn’t necessarily mean anything is wrong with the fluid or transmission. But personally that’s probably the time that I’ll start to consider changing it out. Could it last until 100-150k? Maybe. But I have enough transmissions to rebuild without mine being one of them

I hear you man, I will be doing the harsh shift TSB on mine(and installing a PPE aluminum pan) as soon as I clear out some of the 10R's I have apart already.(That'll teach ferd to be in cahoots with GM!)

 

[CarbonSteel]

60k is just typically when I start to see ULV getting darker on most 10R’s. That doesn’t necessarily mean anything is wrong with the fluid or transmission. But personally that’s probably the time that I’ll start to consider changing it out. Could it last until 100-150k? Maybe. But I have enough transmissions to rebuild without mine being one of them

Agree, but I would add the vast majority of all metal generated (in axles, transfer cases, or transmissions) is done at less than 20K miles and from that point onwards less metal is generated on a per mile basis.

Ergo, it is more important to change the fluid early and often even with "conventional" fluids versus going longer with synthetics. I have a Mishimoto pan for my 10R60 and plan to install it at 10K miles. I will likely do a few fluid dumps after that to replace as much of the old fluid as possible.

 

[mb86gt]

Curious if Dana recommends 75w-140 in the M190 front diff as well?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Curious if Dana recommends 75w-140 in the M190 front diff as well?

Not sure about that one, but it would not hurt anything in the slightest. I have never seen an axle (or any moving equipment) fail in all my years from using a heavier viscosity oil, but I have going the other way.

 

[mb86gt]

Not sure about that one, but it would not hurt anything in the slightest. I have never seen an axle (or any moving equipment) fail in all my years from using a heavier viscosity oil, but I have going the other way.

Carbon, thanks for the reply. I appreciate your knowledge. I think I will split the difference and go 75w-110 in the front.

 

[da_jokker]

I changed mine out for really only 2 reasons...


1) I wanted to go the best Full Synth...Amsoil (at least in the Diffs)

2) I didn't trust that Ford filled them correctly.

Now that I've done it, other than maybe the t-case (because it was super easy and running LV non-synth)...I have no intention on touching my diffs again for a very long time.

 

[orion]

Yup, you should change diff fluid after each wheeling day going through water.

I don't know about changing it everytime, but I would definitely check it after a water crossing day. I would be changing my diff oil after almost every outing. Lots of water crossings here. Your diff breathers are there for a reason. If you are getting water contaminated oil frequently, your breather may be clogged.

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