Why not just do that with 2.0s? Be cheaper unless you go through them like tissue paper. Ok, so maybe the first 2-3 replacements...
yeah the bar and pinion are the same on 2.0 as 3.0...yeah I saved my 2.0 junk also.
Soooo 25 mph hits rock, rack bar breaks on 74weld. 40 mph, hits massive dirt berm, only the steering bushing breaks on BB's rack... haha sorry I had to.
I'll take it!
Ill throw it in the Bronco so we can meet up and exchange, DM me on the socials and we will figure it out.I'll take it!
I have a feeling (because I am an idiot) that this is not the only time this is going to happen to me.
The way Quin was talking about the multiple new support points he added inside the housing it would be difficult to bend the internals. Apparently not. Did the housing break? Sorry post Christmas comprehension lacking on my end lol. (yes I blamed Christmas lol)
RPG double shear tie rods are stronger than the internals in a 74Weld housing.
In my opinion if you added any more support pieces inside internally, the drag coefficient would increase dramatically linearly with increased effort, lack of return to Center, and generally less Road feel transmitted through the steering wheel would happen. I already noticed the difference between a factory OEM 3.0 and the upgraded 74 weld "resistance to steer" any further added resistance would certainly screw with the cruise control Lane keeping
Don't laugh, that's about the price of a Ferrari F-355 propshaft, which breaks about as easily as a stock Bronco tie rod. The only good news was that the F-348 propshaft fits and it was only $300 (I purchased 3 of them) lol.
Changing a tie rod out on a trail is not difficult changing a steering rack is.
I hear what you’re saying. But we are talking out of everything behind the tire, IF anything were to break, it should be the tie rod before anything else.
I agree, the funny thing is that a year ago when talking to Quinn he told me (and I have it in writing). That the end caps and bushing kit is “just” a band aid and they don’t recommend it. They recommend the whole housing and only sell the cap and bushing because of demand.I did talk with Quinn about the replacement end caps vs entire rack housing. He said there were no known failures of the Hoss 3.0 with upgraded end caps. He couldn't confirm if the housing was even needed. As in... is the housing breaking due to end bushing deflection? Cause of catastrophic failure is difficult to isolate.
We have the 74weld housing on our Raptor. But debating direction on our 2dr. Both have the same 37x11.5R17 tires.
Anyhow. It seems that possibly the best overall option for cost and strength (for the money) is the Hoss 3.0 with 74weld end caps. At that point it's a simple swap if the housing or rack internals fail.
Upgraded Tie Rods are essential for 37s. Something like Icon or Apex with standard ball joint. 37 or larger are too much for stock tie rods (especially rock crawling).
Would also be interested to hear if anyone has knowledge of a Hoss 3.0 rack failing with 74weld end caps.
