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It has been off road but not beat on. Nothing has been damaged or broken. All original body / paint. No kids. No Smoking. No Pets. Just a clean capable rig that is ready for adventure!

Spare Delete for carrying TWO 3 Gallon RotoPax Fuel Jugs. Retains factory camera (modified mount) and shovel mount on hing. Icon Shocks have boots for protection. Front have maybe 3k miles on them installed 8 months ago. Other Underside shots:

Original Owner. Custom Order. 2023 Bronco Base Sasquatch Manual Transmission Kingman, AZ : $58,000 16,500 Miles - ALWAYS STORED INDOORS - Every Record. Serviced every 3k miles full synthetic. Factory Options: + Sasquatch Package (4.7 Gears, Front + Rear Locking Differentials) + Door...

Used ones seem like a great buy! Check Marketplace across the country.

We only bought the Raptor because of the ADV fiberglass.... Almost ordered the fiberglass before the Raptor arrived. We called it project liposuction. HAHA Raptor is an excellent option for capability and cost if you would otherwise modify a standard Bronco.

Zero. 17x8.5 Had to limit compression travel on the Icons with their bumpstop spacer. Ate the bottom of the fender without. No rubbing through entire travel and steering now

Taking them off was the best thing I did on our 2dr. They are firm / harsh on road. Rear end liked to skip. They have terrible rebound control and sounds / feels like the suspension will rip off the truck when it unloads. No idea how so many people like them... unless they just don't have...

That is very good! Glad there is positive movement. And I will say... they stepped up and rebuilt the Raptor steering rack. That was extremely helpful.

Is he lying? Or just failing to tell the truth? He'd get a lot more respect if he owned issues and was forthcoming about solutions. Sad really.

Ecoboost is crazy efficient but bronco design has terrible aerodynamics. We generally drive 60-65 which is the threshold before significant mpg penalties. Secondary roads are ideal for mpg 40-50mph we have seen the 2dr get into the mid 20s on 37s.

I see the issue... everyone knows races are less than 1,000 miles. SO.... you got your use 7-8 times over. You should probably pay extra for that. That's some serious distance! Making me reconsider portals again. :)

Feel free to test and share the results! Or reach out to any of the manufacturers and see if they recommend this use and what parameters are acceptable (how much load for how long).

Do share how Lithium is political? Just to ease your mind... We have lithium batteries in our motorcycle, in our travel trailer (600AH Lithium), in our Raptor (150AH Lithium)... and lithium in a multitude of small devices: chargers, jump packs, laptops, tablets, cell phones. I'm not anti...

You are right. I have no doubt a lithium battery could be built for winch duty. Point is the batteries in this thread are NOT. And there are many compromises: price, capacity, charging issues, cold weather... Not a simple "this is the best upgrade for you!" AGM batteries are the better...

Answer is Lithium are not designed for winch loads. They can't take the sustained amp draw that an AGM battery can. None of these lithium batteries have a listed continuous amp draw rating. Meaning they can take short power burst for seconds not minutes. I'll venture to guess the BMS will...

In a legit recovery... its easy to run a winch for several minutes with heavy load. Even with zero load the amp draw is equal or greater than most alternators. But most winches are never used so proceed however seems best. :)

Many Lithium batteries are rated for 100amp continuous and 200amp surge. A winch can pull 600amp continuous. This high load is also why I would wire DIRECTLY to the battery. Addition of switches, relays, junction blocks increases resistance which increases voltage drop and increases amps...

Lithium is also a poor choice for high current loads like winches.

Your 3 link design looks much better than the dog bone design (from a strength standpoint - way less stress on joints). IFS setup does resemble RCLT... I think if it could utilize ball joints and more factory style tie rods it would be much more functional for longevity and daily...

We just use the factory jack and a block of wood. Wood is great for not slipping and allowing various spacer heights. Only used it a couple times in two years. No way would I give up cargo space or capacity for most jacks. Hydraulic jacks are great until they leak out everywhere.