2025 Suspension Recommendations (by Snacktime)

[Quest]

Looking for advice on suspension upgrades after early control-arm failure

2023 4-door Badlands, 2.7 auto, non-SAS.

Right before 36k miles I had to replace both lower control arms, which seems early. I’m trying to figure out if my current setup is creating stress points that justify upgrading the suspension or specific components.

Current setup:

• Steel front bumper w/ winch
• Additional skid plates
• 35" Falken Wildpeak RTs on stock wheels
• 2023 Badlands Sasquatch coilovers (under 5k miles)
• Tow a pop-up camper a few times a year (aftermarket trailer setup)
• Moderate off-roading, occasionally medium difficulty

Question:
Is this combination likely overloading the stock geometry/arms, or does it point to weak factory parts and just bad luck? Should I be looking at aftermarket UCAs/LCAs, different shocks, or a whole suspension package? I want durability first, ride quality second.

Any firsthand experience or failure patterns would be useful.

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[Oldhippie]

I have not heard of control arm failures…what failed?…I’m gonna say “bad luck” or ya got ripped off, without any actual knowledge/infomation…

 

[SierraBronco]

I have not heard of control arm failures…what failed?…I’m gonna say “bad luck” or ya got ripped off, without any actual knowledge/infomation…

Yeah this definitely seems peculiar. The OEM control arms have been on a lot of rigs with substantial modifications and have held up well. The OEM ball joints have proven to be stronger than 74weld portals, they held up to Broncbuster running 43" tires on portals bolted to the factory knuckle and jumping the rig, breaking the knuckle. Many such cases. @87-Z28 even ran through the math to show how much of an increase in stress is caused by the addition of portals and to the best of my knowledge, nobody running portals and wheeling hard has broken the OEM LCA's.

 

[Brian_B]

Looking for advice on suspension upgrades after early control-arm failure

This may be obvious to some, but are you talking front LCAs or rear LCAs? I've heard the rears referred to as links and control arms, not sure which is actually correct.

The fronts I've also not heard of any real failures. The rears though, I've heard of a few where they absorb some rock hits and get bent - but I'd call that self-inflicted damage and not a factory issue.

 

[Quest]

Sorry for the delayed response, and thanks for the feedback.

After I brought my Bronco in, they determined that both front lower control arms needed replacement (another tech later suggested ball joints, but either way, both LCAs were replaced). When the Bronco was parked and running, it would creak consistently while turning the steering wheel in either direction. That issue has since been resolved.

Before the creaking became constant, there was also an intermittent, fairly loud “ping” coming from the front end. I couldn’t determine whether it was coming from the wheels or more centrally near the front axle. It almost always occurred after being stopped or parked, right as I began moving again—especially if the wheels were turned. They were unable to replicate this noise, so no action was taken.

I do take the Bronco off-road fairly often, but I do not consider my use aggressive or excessively stressful. I did experience two front differential failures previously, which I believe were due to a design flaw in the system rather than abuse.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Soundls like you bought an abused previously owned first productions series vehicle.

S550 Mustang front LCA often fail at 30K miles with regular use so not unheard of.

Frequent mild offroad use should not accelerate wear much, however, with a load and on gmarly roads it will over many miles.

Most of the time its upper damper assy bearing failure first.

LCA are realtively cheap and fast / easy to change just get new OE ones since you dont really know what youre getting with aftermarket and warranty support is seriously hit and miss.

 

[Quest]

Soundls like you bought an abused previously owned first productions series vehicle.

S550 Mustang front LCA often fail at 30K miles with regular use so not unheard of.

Frequent mild offroad use should not accelerate wear much, however, with a load and on gmarly roads it will over many miles.

Most of the time its upper damper assy bearing failure first.

LCA are realtively cheap and fast / easy to change just get new OE ones since you dont really know what youre getting with aftermarket and warranty support is seriously hit and miss.

I am the original owner. I did put a lot of miles on it over a short period when I took it from MA to the Rockies. Towing the pop-up along the way.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Maybe ita a rebuild worth getiing the frame geometry checked at body shop but seems to be under warranty still....

 

[BattBronco35]

Alright, I thought I had fully settled on 6112s but now after reading through this entire thread I am double and triple guessing myself lol. So I hate to be that guy but need some help here.

I have a 2023 Badlands non-sas, 2.7L but with Wildtrack takeoffs for my wheels. I plan on sticking with 35in tires in the future and keeping the wheels

I plan on adding LOD's transmission skid plate (30 lbs), I have the Turn offroad step slider (apparently 56 lbs per slider) and would love to add the RC high winch mount + Winch in the future + Turn Safari Bar (roughly 150 lbs total).

We like to do more crawling down here in SoCal, nothing insane usually around Max 6 (out of 10) but lots of bumpy roads to get to and from the trails.

I do load a decent amount of gear when we go camping sometimes (ice chest, tent, other camping goodies) that at max would probably add 150 lbs over the rear (the rear on the current suspension definitely was sagging when we took it to Grand Canyon last year).

I do a decent amount of driving for work per week (up to a ouple hundred miles for work + 36ish mile round trip everyday per week) and really want to try and eliminate that diving and rolly feel of the current suspension.

I want to get right around 1.5-2in of lift. My original thought was 6112s + Icon Tubular UCA + Icon Adjustable Rear Track Bar. But as mentioned this thread has me rethinking the 6112s.

Sorry for the long ass post but y'all got my head WORKING in here lol.

 

[popo_patty]

Alright, I thought I had fully settled on 6112s but now after reading through this entire thread I am double and triple guessing myself lol. So I hate to be that guy but need some help here.

I have a 2023 Badlands non-sas, 2.7L but with Wildtrack takeoffs for my wheels. I plan on sticking with 35in tires in the future and keeping the wheels

I plan on adding LOD's transmission skid plate (30 lbs), I have the Turn offroad step slider (apparently 56 lbs per slider) and would love to add the RC high winch mount + Winch in the future + Turn Safari Bar (roughly 150 lbs total).

We like to do more crawling down here in SoCal, nothing insane usually around Max 6 (out of 10) but lots of bumpy roads to get to and from the trails.

I do load a decent amount of gear when we go camping sometimes (ice chest, tent, other camping goodies) that at max would probably add 150 lbs over the rear (the rear on the current suspension definitely was sagging when we took it to Grand Canyon last year).

I do a decent amount of driving for work per week (up to a ouple hundred miles for work + 36ish mile round trip everyday per week) and really want to try and eliminate that diving and rolly feel of the current suspension.

I want to get right around 1.5-2in of lift. My original thought was 6112s + Icon Tubular UCA + Icon Adjustable Rear Track Bar. But as mentioned this thread has me rethinking the 6112s.

Sorry for the long ass post but y'all got my head WORKING in here lol.

Call up Accutune off-road and get their thoughts. They sell and tune a ton of suspension options and own their own bronco. They are also local to SoCal

 

[BattBronco35]

Call up Accutune off-road and get their thoughts. They sell and tune a ton of suspension options and own their own bronco. They are also local to SoCal

Appreciate the feedback on Accutune. I've seen their posts floating around which have also made me think and kind of led me here ha.

Unfortunately they're a bit too far south for me but would love to still get some feedback from them.

 

[telenerd]

Alright, I thought I had fully settled on 6112s but now after reading through this entire thread I am double and triple guessing myself lol. So I hate to be that guy but need some help here.

I have a 2023 Badlands non-sas, 2.7L but with Wildtrack takeoffs for my wheels. I plan on sticking with 35in tires in the future and keeping the wheels

I plan on adding LOD's transmission skid plate (30 lbs), I have the Turn offroad step slider (apparently 56 lbs per slider) and would love to add the RC high winch mount + Winch in the future + Turn Safari Bar (roughly 150 lbs total).

We like to do more crawling down here in SoCal, nothing insane usually around Max 6 (out of 10) but lots of bumpy roads to get to and from the trails.

I do load a decent amount of gear when we go camping sometimes (ice chest, tent, other camping goodies) that at max would probably add 150 lbs over the rear (the rear on the current suspension definitely was sagging when we took it to Grand Canyon last year).

I do a decent amount of driving for work per week (up to a ouple hundred miles for work + 36ish mile round trip everyday per week) and really want to try and eliminate that diving and rolly feel of the current suspension.

I want to get right around 1.5-2in of lift. My original thought was 6112s + Icon Tubular UCA + Icon Adjustable Rear Track Bar. But as mentioned this thread has me rethinking the 6112s.

Sorry for the long ass post but y'all got my head WORKING in here lol.

I think the 6112s would be great for what your looking for that wont break your budget. The problem will be is finding the right clip setting. Its a roll of the dice, and dont expect to get it right the first time and end up paying for multiple alignments. Anyone's guess. Another option is buying the Ford Performance 6112 but you wont get adjustable clip positions.

 

[BattBronco35]

I think the 6112s would be great for what your looking for that wont break your budget. The problem will be is finding the right clip setting. Its a roll of the dice, and dont expect to get it right the first time and end up paying for multiple alignments. Anyone's guess. Another option is buying the Ford Performance 6112 but you wont get adjustable clip positions.

Yeah, I'm having a shop install, problem is I don't have the time to go back multiple times to get it corrected. Cost isn't as much of a worry for me, obviously not trying to ball out with something like 8112s, which is kinda why I landed on the 6112s

Do I have them maybe go a position up on each clip knowing it's gonna settle? As long as it gets level (or damn near close) with a lift, I'll be happy. From what I've read, I don't have to really worry about CV binding issues with the 6122s even when going up a circle. And since I'm doing UCA and rear track bark, I'm covered there.

Winch stuff is probably at least a year out so that heavy load isn't much of a worry at all. New skid plate will be soon but that's 30 lbs I'm not worried about that weight really.

 

[crenca]

From what I've read, I don't have to really worry about CV binding issues with the 6122s even when going up a circle. And since I'm doing UCA and rear track bark, I'm covered there.

Here:




You will see that the 6112's actually have slightly less extension (i.e. "down travel") then the stock yellow Bilsteins, so unless your combining the install with a (strut) spacer lift the CV angles (at droop) will be essentially the same (i.e. slightly less and thus "better").

Now, if you are maxing out the preload for lift your putting CV angles more toward droop in the ride zone, but I'm not sure how much this stresses and wears the CV's over a normal (factory) ride zone...hopefully other's will chime in with experience/opinions.

I also wonder how much a mild (0-2") 6112 lift from preload really needs a rear track bar bracket...does it really push the track bar from level/horizontal (i.e. the ideal) enough? Others will comment hopefully

 

[BattBronco35]

I

Here:




You will see that the 6112's actually have slightly less extension (i.e. "down travel") then the stock yellow Bilsteins, so unless your combining the install with a (strut) spacer lift the CV angles (at droop) will be essentially the same (i.e. slightly less and thus "better").

Now, if you are maxing out the preload for lift your putting CV angles more toward droop in the ride zone, but I'm not sure how much this stresses and wears the CV's over a normal (factory) ride zone...hopefully other's will chime in with experience/opinions.

I also wonder how much a mild (0-2") 6112 lift from preload really needs a rear track bar bracket...does it really push the track bar from level/horizontal (i.e. the ideal) enough? Others will comment hopefully

I studied this graph a lot ha, thank you. Yes, nothing else is being added and as of now really gonna be at the lowest circlip on the front and maybe 2nd, max 3rd on the rear. That supposedly gets a non-sas Badlands to right about 2" which is what I'm going for (and have seen on some other threads). So from what I've seen hopefully nowhere near maximizing that preload at ride angle. I've seen the 1 front circlip & 2/3 rear circlip a solid amount around the forums without any issues, so I think that's good.

The track bar I've seen so many on both sides that I figured I'd err on the side of caution. The shop also does an alignment there too.

Really appreciate all the feedback on this and these awesome threads. I ended up pulling the trigger on the 6112s and getting them installed March 13th!

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