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- Mark
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- 2023 Bronco
- Your Bronco Model
- Black Diamond
I noticed you said that you (used 1.8 quarts) is you Bronco have the 4A option? Book calls for 1.3 if not and 1.6 if it does.EDIT: Moved everything to the first page including all videos and parts lists. As of 15 August, 2024, all links have been updated and are working. Ping me if you see any that do not.
I just completed changing the fluid in the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle and added a Ford Performance cover on the rear axle at the same time. I changed all 3 at 2500 miles, the Bronco now has 5000 miles on it, so another 2500 mile run on all three.
I did not find anything unexpected and overall, it was a smooth process--that anyone can do. I am not a professional videographer and so the rear axle has a few videos, but by the time I made it to the transfer case, I had figured it out. Apologies for the multiple videos, bad angles, and having to listen to my voice.
A side note about synthetic gear oil. There have been more misconceptions posted about synthetic oil which includes gear oil than ever should have been. From how they will cause leaks where none existed, to they will delay or prevent mechanical break-in, to they do not protect as well as conventional oils. None of that is true.
From at least 1999 through at least 2014 Ford specified 75W-140 synthetic gear oil in their rear axles. From the mid-1990’s until the mid-2010’s many OEMs specified synthetic engine oil and from the mid-2010’s until now nearly all do. If synthetic oil had any of the properties noted above, we would hear of the issues they allegedly create by the tens of thousands especially with the internet amplification that happens today.
In short, synthetic oil (in any form) will not prevent or delay break-in nor cause any issues in modern applications. There is also nothing that a conventional oil can do that a synthetic cannot do better—unless you have a pre-1980 engine, then the requirements for additives such as ZDDP are not in synthetics, but those are in the minority and certainly do not apply to a 6G Bronco.
I am happy to answer any questions.
This funnel is a lifesaver - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10106B-FloTool-Filler-Refill/dp/B000EH4UXM
Front Axle Video and Parts -
- Amsoil 75W-110 fluid (about 1.2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?code=SVTQT-EA
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose 75W-110 because it is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 table was updated in 2005 AND because the from axle capacity is so small. I also had it in my stash--I will switch to 75W-140 when it runs out.
For information, the J306 table defines the kinetic viscosity ranges (cSt @ 100°C) that a particular viscosity gear oil must meet in order to be labeled as that viscosity. In 2005, the 75W-90 viscosity range was split into two ranges. The lower range became 75W-90 and the upper range became 75W-110.
Transfer Case Video and Parts-
- Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid (about 1.8QTs) - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XT-10-QLVC-Oil-Automatic/dp/B07ZTRVLX9
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose Motorcraft Mercon LV versus Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. because there is no combustion by products, the temperatures are nominal, and Motorcraft is cost effective. From my viewpoint, changing standard Motorcraft Mercon LV more often is better than running a premium synthetic longer.
Rear Axle Parts:
- Ford OEM gasket (it is reusable unless damaged) part number is KB3Z 4036 A
- Amsoil 75W-140 fluid (about 2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?code=SVOQT-EA
- PTFE Megatape (Gray) - https://www.amazon.com/HERC-15100-1-2X1000-MEGATAPE/dp/B00LO49TV2
- I chose 75W-140 because Dana recommends it for the M220 axle (they also recommend it for the M210 front axle). Any 75W-140 off the shelf (Castrol, Mobil, or Valvoline, etc.) will also work if you do not want to order Amsoil.
- The bolt thread depth in the axle housing is 23mm. If using the OEM rubber and steel gasket with the Ford Performance cover, then you need M8 bolts that are at least 25mm long—if purchasing new ones, then consider 30MM. IMHO, the supplied bolts with the cover are 20mm and they will be too short for the OEM gasket.
Will the supplied bolts work? Yes. They will grab enough thread to tighten and not leak. Are they optimum? No. Because the face of the axle housing threaded bosses is back chamfered, you are not grabbing much thread despite what is protruding from the cover. Also, consider the parent material is cast iron—if you snag the cover on a drop off, you will wish you had more thread engagement into the housing versus what the supplied 20MM bolts gives.
It should also be noted that I have not found a single source for the fiber composition gaskets which are supplied with the Ford Performance cover. The only gaskets currently in the marketplace for a 12 bolt Advantek axle cover is OEM—either from Ford or Jeep (the Rubicon uses the same rear axle). All other Dana 44 gaskets are for the older generation which is a 10 bolt design.
Video 1 - Tools and Parts -
Video 2 - General Discussion About Cover/Brake Line Clips & Prying on Cover -
Video 3 - Initial Drain -
Video 4 - Inspection and Cavity Discussion -
Scott towel showing metal from cavity:
Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps -
Video 6 - OEM Brake Clip Construction -
Rear Cover Hardware (NEW longer flange bolts are needed if using OEM gasket because it is thicker. They are not needed if using the supplied gasket with the Ford cover--use the supplied bolts that come with the cover--I would still consider replacing them with longer bolts considering the minimal thread engagement):
10 Each - Flange Bolts: M8x1.25x25mm long. These are yellow zinc coated to prevent rust—https://belmetric.com/jis-flange-bolt-10-9-coarse-m8x1-25-12mm-wrench/?sku=BF8X25YLW
2 Each - Brake Line Studs: M8x1.25x75mm long. These are black oxide and can rust. A bit of paint or grease can prevent corrosion—https://belmetric.com/m8-double-end-stud-class-10-9-hardened-steel/?sku=SH8X75DBLK
4 Each - Stud Washers. These are extra thick and are yellow zinc coated to prevent rust— https://belmetric.com/fender-washer-hv350-steel-quenched-tempered/?sku=WFEHV8X23YLW
4 Each - Stud Cover and Inner Side Brake Line Clamp Flange Nuts (one goes against the cover and one goes on the inside of brake line clamp)— https://belmetric.com/tall-collar-nut-flange-class-10-steel-din-6331/?sku=NFFH8TALLYLW
2 each - Rear Brake Line Clamps. I believe I used the 3/8", if not then 1/2". You have to drill the holes out to 8MM because they are 1/4" out of the box. Take the rubber off the clamp before attempting to drill. I used a small vise and drill press to drill them out using a few different drill bit to move up slowly— https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2YBDS5
2 Each - Stud Outer Side Brake Line Clamp Flange Nuts (these tighten the brake line clamp on the outside— https://belmetric.com/flange-nut-smooth-class-10-steel-din-6923/?sku=NFFH8X13YLW
Magnetic Drain Plugs:
3 Each (if replacing all to be the same) - Low-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Plug with Hex Drive, Hollow with Magnet, 1/2 Pipe Size https://www.mcmaster.com/1457N14
@redone17
I was just curious. Also do you fill transfer case until fluid comes out of top fill hole?
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. I think getting under there and filling that front diff at that poor given angle is the most difficult thing.
