Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[Ogre]

A nice option from amsoil is quart sized bags. Was just able to squeeze it in. Easiest diff fill I've ever done. Took longer to clean the rear diff mating surfaces than it did to fill all 3 combined.

Sponsored

 

[CarbonSteel]

A nice option from amsoil is quart sized bags. Was just able to squeeze it in. Easiest diff fill I've ever done. Took longer to clean the rear diff mating surfaces than it did to fill all 3 combined.

Yep, for an off the shelf oil Valvoline has the same. I like the hose of the funnel as it allows even more flexibility (no pun intended ).

 

[da_jokker]

Yeah those squeeze bags were not as friendly as I thought. This was the first time I used them. Front diff was a pain to get the bag in there. Back diff was so so.

Worse is when you accidentally lightly squeeze on an open one while you try to pick it up...stuff goes everywhere!!!

 

[orion]

The OEM gasket is reusable. I have not decided if I'll re-use it or use the fiber gasket (which will need RTV sealer used with it).

I have not been able to find a fiber gasket to replace the one that comes with the cover, so at some point, I'll have to use the OEM.

I hope to install mine tomorrow afternoon and will report back.

If and when I need to replace the OEM gasket, I will use the Lube Locker brand.

 

[CarbonSteel]

If and when I need to replace the OEM gasket, I will use the Lube Locker brand.

Just make sure you get one for a Dana 44 Advantek that has 12 bolt holes. That one is for the old Dana 44 with 10.

With that said, the D44 locker axle under the Bronco is the same as the one under the Rubicon and I reused that gasket at least 10 times with no leaks. Just don't over torque and they are good to go.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Yeah those squeeze bags were not as friendly as I thought. This was the first time I used them. Front diff was a pain to get the bag in there. Back diff was so so.

Worse is when you accidentally lightly squeeze on an open one while you try to pick it up...stuff goes everywhere!!!

Agree--if they had a 3" or 4" nozzle, they would be perfect. The Flo Tool can be turned on or off giving you more control and prevents spillage.

 

[Bearcat1]

Just make sure you get one for a Dana 44 Advantek that has 12 bolt holes. That one is for the old Dana 44 with 10.

With that said, the D44 locker axle under the Bronco is the same as the one under the Rubicon and I reused that gasket at least 10 times with no leaks. Just don't over torque and they are good to go.

I have the Ford Performance diff cover en route. Didn't think about it, but do you know if you can use the existing factory reusable gasket with the performance cover?

 

[CarbonSteel]

I have the Ford Performance diff cover en route. Didn't think about it, but do you know if you can use the existing factory reusable gasket with the performance cover?

Yes; I am in the midst of installing mine now and used the OEM gasket versus the fiber one supplied with the cover.

 

[gtabert]

Yes; I am in the midst of installing mine now and used the OEM gasket versus the fiber one supplied with the cover.

I just finished changing front Dif / Transfer and rear Dif Fluids and installed the Ford Performance cover.. Everyrhing went real well Eze Pze. Used the cheap-po Flo Tool, thanks for that tip! Cut the length of fill tube as needed to get the bottle to Flo without kinking the tube. I used Redline 75w110 and 75w140 and Motorcraft Mercon LV in the transfer case. Reused the factory gasket, very little clean up, being sure to torque the bolts properly. Took a little over 3 hours total. One suggestion, when inside the rear Dif, take your finger and scoop out any fluid in the sump then wipe it out with a shop rag. It's surprising how much fluid is left inside the case.

CarbonSteel, thanks for starting this topic and help throughout.

Be Safe

 

[woodsman44]

I’m sure there are better (re: more professional) solutions for the two stud bolts. But, this worked for me.

That ARB looks like a nice cover!

I see the drain plug at bottom and fill plug at Top left but was wondering how to check fluid level with fill plug that high up?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Gang,

I just completed changing the fluid in the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle and added a Ford Performance cover on the rear axle at the same time. I changed all 3 at 2500 miles, the Bronco now has 5000 miles on it, so another 2500 mile run on all three.

I did not find anything unexpected and overall it was a smooth process--that anyone can do. I am not a professional videographer and so the rear axle is a few videos, but by the time I made it to the transfer case, I had figured it out. Apologies for the multiple videos, bad angles, and having to listen to my voice.

I am happy to answer any questions.

This funnel is a lifesaver - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10106B-FloTool-Filler-Refill/dp/B000EH4UXM

Front Axle Video -



- Amsoil 75W-110 fluid (about 1.2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?code=SVTQT-EA
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose 75W-110 because it is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 table update in 2005 AND because the capacity is so small. I also had it in my stash--I will switch to 75W-140 when it runs out.

Transfer Case Video -



- Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid (about 1.8QTs) - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XT-10-QLVC-Oil-Automatic/dp/B07ZTRVLX9
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose Motorcraft Mercon LV versus Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. because there is no combustion by products, the temperatures are nominal, and Motorcraft is cost effective. From my viewpoint, changing standard Motorcraft Mercon LV more often is better than running a premium synthetic longer.


Rear Axle:

- Amsoil 75W-140 fluid (about 2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?code=SVOQT-EA
- PTFE Megatape (Gray) - https://www.amazon.com/HERC-15100-1-2X1000-MEGATAPE/dp/B00LO49TV2
- I chose 75W-140 because Dana recommends it for the M220 axle (they also recommend it for the M210 front axle). Any 75W-140 off the shelf (Castrol, Mobil, or Valvoline, etc.) will also work if you do not want to order Amsoil.
- The bolt thread depth in the axle housing is 23mm. If using the OEM rubber and steel gasket with the Ford Performance cover, then you need M8 bolts that are 25mm long. The supplied bolts with the cover are 20mm and they will be too short for the OEM gasket.

Video 1 - Tools and Parts -

Video 2 - General Discussion About Cover/Brake Line Clips & Prying on Cover -

Video 3 - Initial Drain -

Video 4 - Inspection and Cavity Discussion -

Scott towel showing metal from cavity:

Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps -

Video 6 - OEM Brake Clip Construction -

Rear Cover Hardware (NEW longer flange bolts are needed if using OEM gasket because it it thicker. They are not needed if using the supplied gasket with the Ford cover--use the supplied bolts that come with the cover):


10 Each - Flange Bolts: M8x1.25x25mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-coarse-din-6921-flange-bolt-class-10-9-steel/?sku=BFD8X25YLW

2 Each - Brake Line Studs: M8x1.25x75mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-double-end-stud-class-10-9-hardened-steel/?sku=SH8X75DBLK

4 Each - Stud Washers: https://belmetric.com/hv-350-steel-thick-extreme-strength-din-6340-fender-washer/?sku=WFEHV8X23YLW

4 Each - Stud Flange Nuts (against cover and one side of brake line clamp): https://belmetric.com/class-10-steel-tall-collar-flange-nut-din-6331/?sku=NFFH8TALLYLW

2 Each - Stud Outside Nuts: https://belmetric.com/din-6923-coarse-full-wrench-stainless-smooth-flange-nut/?sku=NFF8X13SS

Magnetic Drain Plugs:

3 Each (if replacing all to be the same) - Low-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Plug with Hex Drive, Hollow with Magnet, 1/2 Pipe Size https://www.mcmaster.com/1457N14

 

[userdude]

Gang,

I just completed changing the fluid in the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle. I changed all 3 at 2500 miles, the Bronco now has 5000 miles on it, so another 2500 mile run on all three.

I did not find anything unexpected and overall it was a smooth process--that anyone can do. I am not a professional videographer and so the rear axle is a few videos, but by the time I made it to the transfer case, I had figured it out. Apologies for the multiple videos, bad angles, and having to listen to my voice.

I am happy to answer any questions.

This funnel is a lifesaver - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10106B-FloTool-Filler-Refill/dp/B000EH4UXM

Front Axle Video -



- Amsoil 75W-110 fluid (about 1.2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?code=SVTQT-EA
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose 75W-110 because it is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 table update in 2005 AND because the capacity is so small.

Transfer Case Video -



- Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid (about 1.8QTs) - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XT-10-QLVC-Oil-Automatic/dp/B07ZTRVLX9
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose Motorcraft Mercon LV versus Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. because there is no combustion by products, the temperatures are nominal, and Motorcraft is cost effective. From my viewpoint, changing standard Mercon more often is better than running a synthetic longer.


Rear Axle:

- Amsoil 75W-140 fluid (about 2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?code=SVOQT-EA
- PTFE Megatape (Gray) - https://www.amazon.com/HERC-15100-1-2X1000-MEGATAPE/dp/B00LO49TV2
- I chose 75W-140 because Dana recommends it for the M220 axle (they also recommend it for the M210 front axle). Any 75W-140 off the shelf (Castrol, Mobil, or Valvoline, etc.) will also work if you do not want to order Amsoil.

Video 1 - Tools and Parts -

Video 2 - General Discussion About Cover/Brake Line Clips & Prying on Cover -

Video 3 - Initial Drain -

Video 4 - Inspection and Cavity Discussion -

Scott towel showing metal from cavity:

Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps -

Video 6 - OEM Brake Clip Construction -

Man, thanks! I figured it'd be some dark-and-shaky "what is that??" Zapruder style, but you went all out. With the green gloves it's even a little take-me-to-your-leader. lol

 

[Fmuguira]

Noticed there’s 2 fill plugs in Ford cover… which one do you fill through and to for correct oil level?? Thx

 

[CarbonSteel]

Noticed there’s 2 fill plugs in Ford cover… which one do you fill through and to for correct oil level?? Thx

You fill and check through the bottom. The top plug is for inspection (such that it is).

 

[userdude]

@CarbonSteel When I pulled my steering rack, we noticed that there was some slow leak on the front diff. Around the part that sticks down through the plate, the dirt was not wet, but moist? Do you think that's something I could address when I do this? Mark suggested there was a TSB, and I have to take it in, but figured I'd ask.

Mine is definitely dirtier down under.

Also, just wondering, what do you think of the Ronin oil plug?

Sponsored