Switch or Solenoid for Winch

[TruckCamper]

Be careful with solenoids... winches will draw huge amp loads. Look at the manufacturer charts. 500amp is not enough. I'd make sure you have a quality (not china part) and check that it can withstand the under hood temperature range and waterproof.

Realistically a switch is probably the better option for high amp winch load.

However I've always wired directly to the battery. I've owned a dozen winches over 20yrs and never had an issue. Ensure good connections, protect wiring and carefully route - these are the cause of most issues I've seen.

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[nolimits]

Be careful with solenoids... winches will draw huge amp loads. Look at the manufacturer charts. 500amp is not enough. I'd make sure you have a quality (not china part) and check that it can withstand the under hood temperature range and waterproof.

Am I missing something? The Stinger says it's good for 500 amp continuous with peaks up to 900 amps.

When I was winch shopping I pulled data on several winches and compiled into some charts. I'm seeing about 400 amps as the max the Evo 12s pulls. But maybe I've overlooked something.

 

[Bschurr]

I think work is going to slow down in the next week so I can finally focus on getting my BAMF bumper, frame horn reinforcements, winch, intercooler, etc all installed.

I opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation bracket and wiring kit when I got the bumper. Thinking I will add the Stinger solenoid and run to Aux3 or similar (10 amp).

Excuse my ignorance but reading the instructions I see they show a fuse between the Stinger and battery. I don’t think anyone here installed one. Why? My thoughts are it’s off until switched on so less benefit than if on all the time. However, if running the winch with hood shut, wouldn’t it provide some additional protection? Or am I being paranoid and overthinking it? If one is needed, what size? Assuming 500 amp?

Here’s the 12V performance specifications for the Warn Zeon 10S
410

gotta RTFM

 

[CitrusBronco]

the downside with a switch is you need to open the hood to get to it and that is not going to be very convenient in some winch situations.
Mine came installed from Ford so I have no experience with the setup planing.
I am glad I don’t have a switch to get to under the hood.

 

[SierraBronco]

Wing nut...I put a wing nut on the terminal and only hook up when needed.

Probably the best solution yet

 

[Brian_B]

So the fuse is there as a failsafe - if the wiring shorts, if the motor fails, if something bad happens / the fuse goes before your battery or wiring catches on fire.

that said - it’s hard to find a reliable 500a fuse. They exist but it’s not a common thing. And large intermittent loads - like a starter - aren’t usually fused either.

I went with a Stinger so the wiring going out through the bumper isn’t hot unless I want it to be — just a small 12” section of wire right by the battery. And that’s the biggest thing I’m concerned with - if I rear end or tap something with my bumper and it cuts the insulation and starts arc welding copper to my bumper.

i also did not use a fuse. The load is large enough, and with the stinger intermittent enoufh, that at I felt fairly safe without it - just like on most starters.

 

[Incinr8]

I went with a manual switch that I can turn on under the hood for the winch power.. I have the box switched to my Aux switches in cab. This is what my setup look likes.

 

[Oldhippie]

I will say a switch under the hood is a good “safety“ device, as it makes ya open the hood while winching to add some protection from flying cable, hook, shackle towards the windshield…

 

[SierraBronco]

I think work is going to slow down in the next week so I can finally focus on getting my BAMF bumper, frame horn reinforcements, winch, intercooler, etc all installed.

I opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation bracket and wiring kit when I got the bumper. Thinking I will add the Stinger solenoid and run to Aux3 or similar (10 amp).

Excuse my ignorance but reading the instructions I see they show a fuse between the Stinger and battery. I don’t think anyone here installed one. Why? My thoughts are it’s off until switched on so less benefit than if on all the time. However, if running the winch with hood shut, wouldn’t it provide some additional protection? Or am I being paranoid and overthinking it? If one is needed, what size? Assuming 500 amp?

I saw @SierraBronco thread where he was lucky his rig didn’t burn down and I want to make sure I do this right so I hopefully avoid any similar issues.

I will also be installing wire loom similar to the MetalTech video. Granted that doesn’t do squat regarding the fuse question but it does help protect the wiring from hopefully needing that fuse.

I should probably start my response in notes because I know when I type everything up I’ll get done and add links then the app will kick me out and delete everything, pissing me off so badly that my next response will be “fuck fuses fuck you fuck this app fuck the winch and fuck your wires”

okay. That settles it. Switching to notes. I’ll be back.

 

[SierraBronco]

I think work is going to slow down in the next week so I can finally focus on getting my BAMF bumper, frame horn reinforcements, winch, intercooler, etc all installed.

I opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation bracket and wiring kit when I got the bumper. Thinking I will add the Stinger solenoid and run to Aux3 or similar (10 amp).

Excuse my ignorance but reading the instructions I see they show a fuse between the Stinger and battery. I don’t think anyone here installed one. Why? My thoughts are it’s off until switched on so less benefit than if on all the time. However, if running the winch with hood shut, wouldn’t it provide some additional protection? Or am I being paranoid and overthinking it? If one is needed, what size? Assuming 500 amp?

I saw @SierraBronco thread where he was lucky his rig didn’t burn down and I want to make sure I do this right so I hopefully avoid any similar issues.

I will also be installing wire loom similar to the MetalTech video. Granted that doesn’t do squat regarding the fuse question but it does help protect the wiring from hopefully needing that fuse.

Winch fuse and relay



Okayyyyyyy. Now that I’ve calmed down from being preemptively mad for what the app has planned for me, here’s my latest thoughts on our setup. I’m still mulling it over and haven’t ordered anything yet.



Sew! First things first, I maintain that there wasn’t a short to ground. In the several (at least five) times that I have cleaned and neutralized the sodium bicarbonate residue that is slowly trying to destroy the metal surfaces and remaining wiring, I have closely looked at anywhere that could have shorted. Nothing has evidence of a short, especially through that 4G wire. The most plausible scenario is that the set screw allowed the wiring to work itself loose, causing the 4G to heat up and start shit on fire. A fuse coming directly from the terminal would be of no use in this situation as it wasn’t an excessive amperage issue. So with that in mind all connections going forward with be terminal style that can be marked and easily checked for tightness. The crimps themselves will be done with a hydraulic hexagonal crimper (actually not expensive)



As far as the circuit is concerned, I’m thinking either a relay directly off the battery terminal, that wire then going to a Blue Sea fuse block with a 400 amp fuse or fuse directly off the terminal and into the relay(I do like the hard disconnect, but yeah-there might be times when the hood won’t be able to open. And there isn’t really an awesome way to hook it up right off the battery, though I suppose it wouldn’t be too difficult to fab up a custom bracket) Now, some will say that isn’t enough fuse. Keep in mind the 409 amp draw is pulling the max at 12V according to the Warn specs. 409 amps X 12 volts = 4908 watts. If the engine is running and pushing out 14.4V, the additional “push” is going to help us out and reduce our amperage to a MAX of 340. (I’m not an electrician so take all this with a grain of salt) With that information I will run (pure copper) wiring necessary to overcompensate for the maximum draw at 12V. If I pop the fuse, and everything is good, I have an extra. The fuse will then tie into a Blue sea bus bank on the attached mount and power distributed from there.



Spartan Power Welding Lead & Car Battery Cable Copper Wire - DIY Bulk Car Battery Cable, Pro American Made Automotive Grade Battery Cable - 600 Volt, 1/0 AWG, 25 Foot, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y7CZNGT?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_SVGWWWAKSNF3B4M3WQ8P&language=en_US



NVX BIR500 500 AMP Battery Relay Isolator and Relay for Cars, RVs, ATVs, UTVs, and Boats. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMBKWZ0?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_NQFWQKDB5FC5RY2VY2KT&language=en_US



Blue Sea Systems 2708 Connector Cover, 600A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2K6MA?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_7TC8N65EK49KJ4595GF1&language=en_US



Blue Sea Systems 2104 PowerBar BusBar with Four 3/8, 600A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBB758?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_KPEACA79K6S3X2Y3FHN3&language=en_US



Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Blocks, 320A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VJ03LA?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_BBRAN64AV9642PJXS20X&language=en_US



Blue Sea Systems 5121 FUSE A3T (CLASS T) 400 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMH1JO?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_7BGJ95PFJ9ZG9RMXM8C9&language=en_US



Ordered this bracket to hold bus bar and other ancillary equipment
https://americanadventurelab.com/product/battery-cutoff-and-maxi-fuse-bracket-kit/

I do think it’s important to protect your circuit. Mice are hungry and accidents happen. It’s particularly important with a rear winch like we have.

And of course, the easiest and probably most secure solution is the wing nut.

 

[Brian_B]

The most plausible scenario is that the set screw allowed the wiring to work itself loose,

This is actually pretty common. I deal with a lot of electrical faults at work - and this is only right behind wirenuts in faults I see. Especially in high current intermittent items - they get a bit warm and then cool down - it can actually work a nut or set screw loose over time.

 

[nolimits]

I should probably start my response in notes because I know when I type everything up I’ll get done and add links then the app will kick me out and delete everything, pissing me off so badly that my next response will be “fuck fuses fuck you fuck this app fuck the winch and fuck your wires”

okay. That settles it. Switching to notes. I’ll be back.

Absolutely feel your pain

The app is garbage. Hope the @Administrator sees this and takes note. I don’t bash for the sake of it but it seriously seems like it’s getting worse and worse. My frustration started with images and inability to click and make larger. I used to bypass by zooming on my iPhone. Then that stopped working.

The icing on the cake for me was similar to what you describe. When trying to type a normal, not super detailed response it kept refreshing and making me lose content, etc. I have no idea why the app is possessed but I said fuck you to it and use Safari instead….it just works and doesn’t piss me off

I like this forum and participating. I would like to use the app. But it needs to work. Please fix.

 

[nolimits]

@SierraBronco really appreciate your detailed response. I’m on my way out to work but will digest this later and comment then.

 

[SierraBronco]

Absolutely feel your pain

The app is garbage. Hope the @Administrator sees this and takes note. I don’t bash for the sake of it but it seriously seems like it’s getting worse and worse. My frustration started with images and inability to click and make larger. I used to bypass by zooming on my iPhone. Then that stopped working.

The icing on the cake for me was similar to what you describe. When trying to type a normal, not super detailed response it kept refreshing and making me lose content, etc. I have no idea why the app is possessed but I said fuck you to it and use Safari instead….it just works and doesn’t piss me off

I like this forum and participating. I would like to use the app. But it needs to work. Please fix.

“I’d like to zoom in on this image”

App-“and that’s the last thing you’ll do. Now fuck off”

“okay. Well what if I simply view an image? I promise I won’t zoom in”

“well what if you go fuck yourself human?”

**app freezes**

 

[Rydfree]

As a general rule, if the wire length from battery positive terminal is as long as the battery or longer, it is wise to put an inline fuse on the lead.

You can get reasonably good quality waterproof fuse holders that hold a high current ANL fuse.



https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Blo...lt+down+500+amp+anl,industrial,95&sr=1-1&th=1

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