Switch or Solenoid for Winch

[SierraBronco]

As a general rule, if the wire length from battery positive terminal is as long as the battery or longer, it is wise to put an inline fuse on the lead.

You can get reasonably good quality waterproof fuse holders that hold a high current ANL fuse.



https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Block-Truck-Automotive-Marine/dp/B0D1VBFKSX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1QHF1HVW4FTXB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.O356xiz73TEuOTTeqk7WVs0_Htw9y_f6KCez_I0unf7UUYPptV8BPYaA9y2NxpF7ulOU-n1q6StKCZx9Fj7LwfDBx3SV61vZpbMClJ22VzsLpDcpCxtsekQ7lY0Zx4HXHFenOeDE53PZ63V5B_Wnhov2qA97UaqMubdGvOnkzMJplckMCevx7MHqGIQsGQtulEt-2C5BPVjoTHbANGP4ONRLF52W68URYHkrh87hd0Yg22YUDPbsHqkU4Cdl_1_zHRFWDKRgLhvBoOEq4B0UqXktNV4YJYIO2BJApu8NCuD4377lAUrxz3m5y33TkrwU1-5Ogbg3OdK7CXav7xaE&dib_tag=se&keywords=waterproof+bolt+down+500+amp+anl&qid=1728906618&s=industrial&sprefix=waterproof+bolt+down+500+amp+anl,industrial,95&sr=1-1&th=1

The only reservation I have with ANL (using this one as a specific example. Keep in mind these are things I’ve discovered since the fire) is the surge rating. This fuse specifies use for a max of 750 amps, but there isn’t any clarification on whether that’s continuous or surge. If I looked into it correctly, our battery has a max surge (shorting situation) of 3200 amps. With ANL fuses if the surge is exceeded you can weld the fuse back to itself, completing the circuit. Searching the internet it seems 6000 max interrupt is common for ANL, but after seeing some of the independent tests done on Amazon fuses I’m wary of trusting something that isn’t specifically mentioned.

The class T fuse I linked earlier are rated for 20,000 max interrupt. Yeah, they’re more expensive, but I’ll take that any day over what I’m dealing with after the fire.

https://a.co/d/38HsoQh

Sponsored

 

[Brian_B]

I like this forum and participating. I would like to use the app. But it needs to work. Please fix.

I forgot they even had an app. I just use the website. Is there a good reason for the app to exist? Does it supposedly do anything that the web site can’t

 

[SierraBronco]

I forgot they even had an app. I just use the website. Is there a good reason for the app to exist? Does it supposedly do anything that the web site can’t

Doesn’t send you to the app store when using from the browser?

that actually might be the only thing it does. I’ll need to try uploading a picture or something from the browser to see if it’s better.

 

[Brian_B]

Doesn’t send you to the app store when using from the browser?

that actually might be the only thing it does. I’ll need to try uploading a picture or something from the browser to see if it’s better.

I never downloaded it so maybe that’s why. I think it asked once if I wanted to and I clicked no, maybe?

 

[SierraBronco]

I never downloaded it so maybe that’s why. I think it asked once if I wanted to and I clicked no, maybe?

I think that’s the only reason I downloaded it. Can’t remember.

 

[Rydfree]

The only reservation I have with ANL (using this one as a specific example. Keep in mind these are things I’ve discovered since the fire) is the surge rating. This fuse specifies use for a max of 750 amps, but there isn’t any clarification on whether that’s continuous or surge. If I looked into it correctly, our battery has a max surge (shorting situation) of 3200 amps. With ANL fuses if the surge is exceeded you can weld the fuse back to itself, completing the circuit. Searching the internet it seems 6000 max interrupt is common for ANL, but after seeing some of the independent tests done on Amazon fuses I’m wary of trusting something that isn’t specifically mentioned.

The class T fuse I linked earlier are rated for 20,000 max interrupt. Yeah, they’re more expensive, but I’ll take that any day over what I’m dealing with after the fire.

https://a.co/d/38HsoQh

The 750 Max in that link is not the surge rating but the max size fuse allowed with that fuse holder. It comes shipped with a 500 Amp ANL fuse. Over the 20 year span that I have experience in using these in high amp draw car stereo installations, I trust them. I've seen a few blow from accidents and a few from installer mishaps .You should only use the bolt down type and proper terminals on the wire ends and not the set screw type as mentioned by some already. The fuse should always be within a few inches of the terminal post as in this pic to protect the most wire downstream of the power source .

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

I forgot they even had an app. I just use the website. Is there a good reason for the app to exist? Does it supposedly do anything that the web site can’t

What app? I just use a browser, wasn't even aware there is an app. Haven't found anything I can't do via a browser so not sure what I'm missing but then that wouldn't be the first time.

 

[SierraBronco]

The 750 Max in that link is not the surge rating but the max size fuse allowed with that fuse holder. It comes shipped with a 500 Amp ANL fuse. Over the 20 year span that I have experience in using these in high amp draw car stereo installations, I trust them. I've seen a few blow from accidents and a few from installer mishaps .You should only use the bolt down type and proper terminals on the wire ends and not the set screw type as mentioned by some already. The fuse should always be within a few inches of the terminal post as in this pic to protect the most wire downstream of the power source .

Right. All points I agree with. The situation in question is for a short to ground through 0G where the battery is given the opportunity to offload a huge amount of electricity. Seems it is a possibility that fuses can weld themselves back together, completing the circuit and not prevent a fire if the max interruption capacity (ampere interruption capacity) is exceeded. AMG is lowest, then ANL, then Class-T fuse. They could all be hooked up exactly the same with perfect connections and have the same amperage rating, but react differently in the worst case scenario due to AIC rating. That’s all I’m saying-it’s one of the things I’ve learned while getting further education on “what if” scenarios. Just like I now have a $450 fire extinguisher instead of the $30 extinguisher after experiencing the corrosion associated with the cheap extinguisher, I’m using $40 fuses instead of $23 fuses after learning the cheaper ones MIGHT, IN A VERY RARE SITUATION, weld themselves back together. Not that much more money for a little added protection.

 

[nolimits]

The only reservation I have with ANL (using this one as a specific example. Keep in mind these are things I’ve discovered since the fire) is the surge rating. This fuse specifies use for a max of 750 amps, but there isn’t any clarification on whether that’s continuous or surge. If I looked into it correctly, our battery has a max surge (shorting situation) of 3200 amps. With ANL fuses if the surge is exceeded you can weld the fuse back to itself, completing the circuit. Searching the internet it seems 6000 max interrupt is common for ANL, but after seeing some of the independent tests done on Amazon fuses I’m wary of trusting something that isn’t specifically mentioned.

The class T fuse I linked earlier are rated for 20,000 max interrupt. Yeah, they’re more expensive, but I’ll take that any day over what I’m dealing with after the fire.

https://a.co/d/38HsoQh

Good guess @ 6000. Assume Blue Seas is more trustworthy but haven’t researched the independent testing you mentioned.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5137/ANL_Fuse_-_500_Amp

 

[nolimits]

What app? I just use a browser, wasn't even aware there is an app. Haven't found anything I can't do via a browser so not sure what I'm missing but then that wouldn't be the first time.

What you’re missing?

Cue up some clown music, have everything go to shit. Get pissed. Do it again. Have a shot of whiskey. Open web browser and live the good life.

PS - shot of whiskey is for optional, but highly recommended, even when using the web browser.

 

[SierraBronco]

Good guess @ 6000. Assume Blue Seas is more trustworthy but haven’t researched the independent testing you mentioned.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5137/ANL_Fuse_-_500_Amp

For the sake of transparency, the tests were done on lil bitty 2A and 5A fuses, but I’ll go ahead and drop the extra $20

 

[SunilD]

I forgot they even had an app. I just use the website. Is there a good reason for the app to exist? Does it supposedly do anything that the web site can’t

The app is just the web site packaged into a mobile app. It lets a web site feel like a mobile app, b/c you can install it from the app store, and use it like any other app.

This works great for the web site owner, b/c you don't need iOS/Android developers to build your mobile apps. Once setup, any updates you make to the web site automatically reflected in the mobile apps.

I should probably start my response in notes because I know when I type everything up I’ll get done and add links then the app will kick me out and delete everything

Are you doing this on an iPhone? Safari may be refreshing the page b/c it thinks the web page is using too much power. It does this to me incessantly when reading the forums on my iPhone (but never happens w/Safari for Mac).

I'm assuming it's power consumption, from anecdotal evidence: I've seen Safari for Mac do this in some circumstances, but it displays a banner telling you that it refreshed b/c the page was using too much power. And in the battery settings on the phone, Safari is using 80% of my battery ... the next closest is a video streaming app (Pluto TV, which I use a fair amount) at 9%.

I am blaming the all the freaking ads these forums display for the power consumption, but it could be any inefficient Javascript code. Same thing happens to me on Yahoo.

Something else may be happening to you though, b/c when I refresh the page manually it saves the content of my post.

Finally, Chrome on iOS may not care so much about the power consumption

EDIT
The mobile app may be the culprit for not saving your posts between refreshes. It's probably using Safari under the hood, but not configured/allowed to save the data like a normal web browser can.

 

[SierraBronco]

The app is just the web site packaged into a mobile app. It lets a web site feel like a mobile app, b/c you can install it from the app store, and use it like any other app.

This works great for the web site owner, b/c you don't need iOS/Android developers to build your mobile apps. Once setup, any updates you make to the web site automatically reflected in the mobile apps.



Are you doing this on an iPhone? Safari may be refreshing the page b/c it thinks the web page is using too much power. It does this to me incessantly when reading the forums on my iPhone (but never happens w/Safari for Mac).

I'm assuming it's power consumption, from anecdotal evidence: I've seen Safari for Mac do this in some circumstances, but it displays a banner telling you that it refreshed b/c the page was using too much power. And in the battery settings on the phone, Safari is using 80% of my battery ... the next closest is a video streaming app (Pluto TV, which I use a fair amount) at 9%.

I am blaming the all the freaking ads these forums display for the power consumption, but it could be any inefficient Javascript code. Same thing happens to me on Yahoo.

Something else may be happening to you though, b/c when I refresh the page manually it saves the content of my post.

Finally, Chrome on iOS may not care so much about the power consumption

EDIT
The mobile app may be the culprit for not saving your posts between refreshes. It's probably using Safari under the hood, but not configured/allowed to save the data like a normal web browser can.

I AM using an iPhone! That’s very interesting

 

[TruckCamper]

When I was winch shopping I pulled data on several winches and compiled into some charts. I'm seeing about 400 amps as the max the Evo 12s pulls. But maybe I've overlooked something.

Keep in mind those nice charts are showing 1 wrap on the winch drum... This is not realistic. It rarely happens that you will pull loads with 1 wrap. Meaning you will have a higher load / amp draw for whatever weight you are pulling (most of the time - compared to the charts). And typically, your load will be increasing as you winch (winch ratio changing with additional wraps on the drum). Plus your voltage will be dropping as you winch (compounding the AMP draw).

Put a volt meter on your battery while running the winch (under load) for 30 seconds. Watch your voltage drop. Those charts don't specify what voltage for the listed load. The assumption is 12V. Yes, the alternator can assist to offset but it may only produce 150-200amps (depending on model). Battery voltage will drop with winching. As the voltage drops your amperage will increase.

I'd be careful adding additional complication into the system. The more connections the more failure points. The other thing I'd consider would be a high amp fuse. But keep in mind most fuses need about 20% buffer (400amp load = 480amp fuse) Fuse also needs to be rated for the "under hood conditions" (heat/water). You'd also want to carry spares.

The worst thing is your "safety" "protection" systems failing when you really need the winch. I've been in positions where the winch NEEDS to work and trail repairs are not feasible (think near roll over).

Keep it simple. Don't overthink.

 

[SierraBronco]

Keep in mind those nice charts are showing 1 wrap on the winch drum... This is not realistic. It rarely happens that you will pull loads with 1 wrap. Meaning you will have a higher load / amp draw for whatever weight you are pulling (most of the time - compared to the charts). And typically, your load will be increasing as you winch (winch ratio changing with additional wraps on the drum). Plus your voltage will be dropping as you winch (compounding the AMP draw).

Put a volt meter on your battery while running the winch (under load) for 30 seconds. Watch your voltage drop. Those charts don't specify what voltage for the listed load. The assumption is 12V. Yes, the alternator can assist to offset but it may only produce 150-200amps (depending on model). Battery voltage will drop with winching. As the voltage drops your amperage will increase.

I'd be careful adding additional complication into the system. The more connections the more failure points. The other thing I'd consider would be a high amp fuse. But keep in mind most fuses need about 20% buffer (400amp load = 480amp fuse) Fuse also needs to be rated for the "under hood conditions" (heat/water). You'd also want to carry spares.

The worst thing is your "safety" "protection" systems failing when you really need the winch. I've been in positions where the winch NEEDS to work and trail repairs are not feasible (think near roll over).

Keep it simple. Don't overthink.

I’m going with this fuse and fuse block. Class T seems to be ideal for winching

https://shop.pkys.com/class-t-500

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