2021+ Bronco ForScan Thread

[King_Bronco0327]

Just got new LED tail lights from a higher trim. Can anyone reference on how to flash those with forescan?

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[mpeugeot]

I want to do this to mine, I posted a question about it a few months ago... Still no solution? I'm pretty sure I saw a bronco on the road the other day with it done... I just went out to try mine...

Successes:
No Double Honk
Badlands now with Sport Mode
Orange bars on all headlight modes (not with rings off though)
Bambi mode (high beams and fogs together)

Failures:
Cameras at speed
[[[EDIT]]] On closer inspection I found that having the Orange bars on - set in forscan to anything other than "turn only" Results in having no front turn signals. They don't flash... Will keep this updated if I find a solution.

You may not like this answer, but camera at speed is doable with Baja mode.

 

[Spiderwolf]

I'm in the middle of installing a hardwired 10A NOCO charger/maintainer in mine, along with an external plug adapter that also powers the block heater. Might be a good idea if you're going to bypass the battery protection, better than popping the hood open every time you park.

Ive seen the Noco. How are you going to hardwire and be able to hook up without popping the hood. I’ve got a trickle charger on my Rubicon as it only gets driven a couple times a month, and it came with a setup that attaches to the battery with a capped extension that I can uncap and just plug into but again, you still have to pop the hood. I’d like to try what your doing on the Bronco and the Jeep.

 

[Spiderwolf]

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...k-sport-mode-chimes-seatbelts-and-more.28489/

You like the auto stop? You must be the only one. I can’t stand having the vehicle shut down every time I come to a stop. That’s the most annoying feature Ive ever seen. I bought a wiring adapter that goes in between the harness in the console area that shuts that idiotic feature off.

 

[redone17]

Ive seen the Noco. How are you going to hardwire and be able to hook up without popping the hood. I’ve got a trickle charger on my Rubicon as it only gets driven a couple times a month, and it came with a setup that attaches to the battery with a capped extension that I can uncap and just plug into but again, you still have to pop the hood. I’d like to try what your doing on the Bronco and the Jeep.

I fed a 4 amp battery tender to my Noco plug and mounted it in my RC hidden winch skid.

I’m planning on connecting the other end to my block heater that eventually I’ll get around to installing…

I just want to sort out a way to have that line on a switch if some sort. So that I can have the Tender on over night and then turn on the Block Heater a couple hours before leaving in the morning. I never looked into it - but, how long does it take to get to temp? I gotta look that up/run some tests.

 

[Spiderwolf]

Pretty neat idea. What did you use to cut through that thick steel, a hole saw? Would it be possible to get a links to the parts you used.

 

[redone17]

Pretty neat idea. What did you use to cut through that thick steel, a hole saw? Would it be possible to get a links to the parts you used.

Sure, I’ll send PM since it’s not really on topic here. There’s a thread started where someone mounted his in the lower part of the front fender in front of the door jamb.

 

[Draughon]

Did a speaker upgrade and trying to see if Forscan tweaks will help.

Did my first connection and got these values - which don't correspond at ALL to the forscan speaker settings I've been looking at.

I have the B&O system - and just trying to set everything to "Speaker" rather than tweeter.

727-01-01 values don't make any sense to me based on what I've seen / read about. I have values of 7 and F which aren't in any tutorials I've seen?

727-01-02 looks like EQ is turned off (01-02-xx00)

Any help appreciated!

 

[SevenT]

Did the DRL hack for a friend and the blinkers go missing when auto headlights come on at night. I used 0404 in BdyCm 726-42-01. What happened?

 

[Chrome_Pony]

I fed a 4 amp battery tender to my Noco plug and mounted it in my RC hidden winch skid.

I’m planning on connecting the other end to my block heater that eventually I’ll get around to installing…

I just want to sort out a way to have that line on a switch if some sort. So that I can have the Tender on over night and then turn on the Block Heater a couple hours before leaving in the morning. I never looked into it - but, how long does it take to get to temp? I gotta look that up/run some tests.

Nice setup, very clean look.

"How long?" Depends on the block heater type: Magnetic oil pan, heat pad, or engine coolant style by freeze plug? Coolant types are the slowest, where a heating element usually goes in a freeze plug hole and warms the coolant. Arguably, these types are mostly for the driver, since the oil temp is far more important for cold starts than coolant is. The magnetic oilpan style (not likely to be used as I believe our oilpans are aluminum) is the next slowest, as it has to transfer heat to overcome the thermal mass of the oilpan and then the oil. So either of these styles should be fine to run with the maintainer and left for a number of hours, but I probably wouldn't go overnight, unless your specific models mention cycling on and off.

The heating pad style heaters get ripping hot REALLY fast, within minutes or seconds, and are RTVd and/or otherwise adhered to a smooth metal oil/trans/t-case pan and should not be linked on the circuit with your battery maintainer for hours-long use.

I use a Kasa TP-Link smart receptacle on a schedule that cycles on and off my heaters as needed.

Source: Alaskan.

 

[redone17]

Nice setup, very clean look.

"How long?" Depends on the block heater type: Magnetic oil pan, heat pad, or engine coolant style by freeze plug? Coolant types are the slowest, where a heating element usually goes in a freeze plug hole and warms the coolant. Arguably, these types are mostly for the driver, since the oil temp is far more important for cold starts than coolant is. The magnetic oilpan style (not likely to be used as I believe our oilpans are aluminum) is the next slowest, as it has to transfer heat to overcome the thermal mass of the oilpan and then the oil. So either of these styles should be fine to run with the maintainer and left for a number of hours, but I probably wouldn't go overnight, unless your specific models mention cycling on and off.

The heating pad style heaters get ripping hot REALLY fast, within minutes or seconds, and are RTVd and/or otherwise adhered to a smooth metal oil/trans/t-case pan and should not be linked on the circuit with your battery maintainer for hours-long use.

I use a Kasa TP-Link smart receptacle on a schedule that cycles on and off my heaters as needed.

Source: Alaskan.

I’m just planning on the OEM block heater. It’s been sitting in my garage along with the coolant test/refill kit. I hope this is my year…though, I keep hearing it’s supposed to be mild here in NY.

I was thinking if splicing in one of THESE on the block heater line and sucking it up and going out to switch it on…but, I’d love a smart outlet situation. But, how to keep it waterproof?

 

[Chrome_Pony]

I’m just planning on the OEM block heater. It’s been sitting in my garage along with the coolant test/refill kit. I hope this is my year…though, I keep hearing it’s supposed to be mild here in NY.

I was thinking if splicing in one of THESE on the block heater line and sucking it up and going out to switch it on…but, I’d love a smart outlet situation. But, how to keep it waterproof?

NEC code requires this or something similar for new construction on exterior receptacles. The Kasa receptacle is "indoor" but I've used it for several years so far on the covered exterior of my garage.

The Kasa receptacles are also independently controlled, so you could do a short timer schedule for an oilpan pad heater (which I recommend over the coolant ones) and a longer timed schedule for battery tender/coolant style.

I use one receptacle for my LWN and one for my wife's Volvo, set up on different schedules.

 

[redone17]

NEC code requires this or something similar for new construction on exterior receptacles. The Kasa receptacle is "indoor" but I've used it for several years so far on the covered exterior of my garage.

The Kasa receptacles are also independently controlled, so you could do a short timer schedule for an oilpan pad heater (which I recommend over the coolant ones) and a longer timed schedule for battery tender/coolant style.

I use one receptacle for my LWN and one for my wife's Volvo, set up on different schedules.

Thing is...this receptacle will be mounted on the Bronco...since the Noco pigtails split and one goes to the tender. I need something that will go inline to the block heater...

 

[Chrome_Pony]

Thing is...this receptacle will be mounted on the Bronco...since the Noco pigtails split and one goes to the tender. I need something that will go inline to the block heater...

Sounds like you want to control one of the legs after the NOCO power entry which is a much harder task. Nothing off the shelf I'm aware of for this particular use case.

This looks ruggedized similar to what you're describing, but is going to lose power once the NOCO is disconnected, as are all of the inline 120V wireless relays meaning they'll need to reconnect to wifi when plugged back in. Same for the Kasa plug I mentioned if you put it in the engine bay.

For this use case you've described, need a 12V powered relay that receives power from the Bronco and both receives wireless commands and passes 120V through.

 

[redone17]

Sounds like you want to control one of the legs after the NOCO power entry which is a much harder task. Nothing off the shelf I'm aware of for this particular use case.

This looks ruggedized similar to what you're describing, but is going to lose power once the NOCO is disconnected, as are all of the inline 120V wireless relays meaning they'll need to reconnect to wifi when plugged back in. Same for the Kasa plug I mentioned if you put it in the engine bay.

For this use case you've described, need a 12V powered relay that receives power from the Bronco and both receives wireless commands and passes 120V through.

Yeah, hence the manual waterproof inline switch…which isn’t the end of the world.

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