Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[FerkinBlonco]

I would fill to the bottom of the fill hole. There could be some variations in capacity, though 10 ounces is quite a bit more than stated by Ford.

Thank you the illustrations sure make things clear. Makes me want to buy the 3 day license just to see what other good stuff is in there!

No idea why I was so far below the line - I squished in two quart bags, then added a decent sized squeeze extra from a 3rd bag to account for the extra required ounce or so, plus whatever I may not have gotten out do the first two bags. I figure that got me to “somewhere in excess of 65oz” but I dipped my finger in and found to my surprise I was still somewhat below the fill hole. Maybe I missed more fluid than I thought

Was my first experience with quart bags… I like em.

anyway, thanks again

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[CarbonSteel]

Thank you the illustrations sure make things clear. Makes me want to buy the 3 day license just to see what other good stuff is in there!

No idea why I was so far below the line - I squished in two quart bags, then added a decent sized squeeze extra from a 3rd bag to account for the extra required ounce or so, plus whatever I may not have gotten out do the first two bags. I figure that got me to “somewhere in excess of 65oz” but I dipped my finger in and found to my surprise I was still somewhat below the fill hole. Maybe I missed more fluid than I thought

Was my first experience with quart bags… I like em.

anyway, thanks again

In the past I have had Valvoline bags behave that way (almost like they were underfilled).

 

[Lak34ers]

I did the full stack--front axle, transfer case, and rear axle. I have 2500 miles on my Wildtrak and learned from my Rubicon to do this early. Unlike my Rubicon there was no machining swarf on the axle magnets, so perhaps Dana has started doing a better job or Ford is holding them to a higher quality standard versus Jeep.

There was the usual metal "paste" on all magnets, though for only 2500 miles, it was fairly thick. All fluids were heavily filled with metal (as seen in the attached videos). The rear axle was comparable to the Jeep for metal content and you can see it in the draining oil on the face of the axle flange. Advantek axles historically produce more metal than similar counterparts and nothing seems to have changed from their introduction until now.

Also, all three were low--none of them were level with the bottom of the fill plug as stated in the service manual--another great reason to change it early!

I will start a build thread soon and will add a sheet with the UOAs that I will do over time. Here are some photos. Enjoy!

Transfer Case Plug (it is magnetic):

Rear Axle Plug (also magnetic)--Front Axle is also magnetic:

After Cleaning:

Rear Axle Internals (note metal in clinging/draining oil):

Video of transfer case fluid sloshing in pan:



Video of rear axle fluid sloshing in pan:

Just wanted to say Thank you to Carbonsteel and PopoPatty for the feedback and videos. I change out the Transfer, Front and Rear Diff and installed the Ford Performance Rear Diff cover. My 2 cents...

1. Ford Performance Rear Diff Cover was pretty easy to install, used the bolts and gasket that came with it and no leaks. Tightened bolts to specs. I will say it looks awesome when you are behind the Bronco seeing the Ford Diff Cover. Also, with a drain plug now it is going to take literally minutes to change in future.

2. I used recommended Transfer Case Motorcraft Fluid.

3. I used Amsoil 75w-140 in rear and I felt a big difference it was like the Bronco was in mud/glue I'm guessing from the thicker fluid. I drained it a few days later filled up with 75w-90 Valvoline and I'm much happier with the 90 vs the 140. I used 75w-110 in the front and I'm going to drain and fill with 75w-90 as well. The 110/140 was not for me. I understand the reasoning but I could feel the difference and didn't like it.

4. The Valvoline or Amsoil bags vs plastic bottles are a NO BRAINER! So much easier with less mess. Yes I did use the Amazon squeeze tubing on my initial fills and it was messy...bags much easier. Still need Amazon tube for Transfer Fluid. $50 for 4 quarts/bags of Valvoline 75w-90 is a pretty low cost.

I did all this at 18k and was happy I did because all fluid was pretty dark and metal goo on magnetic drain plug, like others have shown.

I think anyone can do this project at home and easily just fit under the vehicle to do all the work. just follow the thread and videos.

Thanks again!

 

[CarbonSteel]

3. I used Amsoil 75w-140 in rear and I felt a big difference it was like the Bronco was in mud/glue I'm guessing from the thicker fluid. I drained it a few days later filled up with 75w-90 Valvoline and I'm much happier with the 90 vs the 140. I used 75w-110 in the front and I'm going to drain and fill with 75w-90 as well. The 110/140 was not for me. I understand the reasoning but I could feel the difference and didn't like it.

In a blind test, I can assure you there is NO WAY that you can "feel" the difference between any of those viscosities--totally get that you think that you can and needed to change the viscosity, but it is not reality.

 

[Lak34ers]

In a blind test, I can assure you there is NO WAY that you can "feel" the difference between any of those viscosities--totally get that you think that you can and needed to change the viscosity, but it is not reality.

Yah I agree I kept telling myself that but maybe my wife filled with 87 instead of 92...very possible. With the Ford Tune you can definitely tell when 92 is not used and Tune doesn't shift the same...sluggish.

 

[Callelk]

In the past I have had Valvoline bags behave that way (almost like they were underfilled).

I pumped 2 bags in mine with the FP cover and only an ounce back came out when I move to level ground from my 6 deg driveway., so yeah, I would agree.

 

[Callelk]

In a blind test, I can assure you there is NO WAY that you can "feel" the difference between any of those viscosities--totally get that you think that you can and needed to change the viscosity, but it is not reality.

I put 75W-140 in both front and rear and can't "seat of the pants" feel any difference. And its 40 deg here in the am.

 

[swamp2]

In a blind test, I can assure you there is NO WAY that you can "feel" the difference between any of those viscosities--totally get that you think that you can and needed to change the viscosity, but it is not reality.

Absolutely. I've had my share of debates and discussions on what can and cannot be felt, heard, noticed.

No you can't feel the presence or absence of a sunroof or carbon fiber roof in a sports car, no you can't feel the hp from an intake or cat back system, a louder car can easily feel faster without being so, etc., etc.

 

[Callelk]

Yah I agree I kept telling myself that but maybe my wife filled with 87 instead of 92...very possible. With the Ford Tune you can definitely tell when 92 is not used and Tune doesn't shift the same...sluggish.

You let your wife drive..............the horrors..............

 

[Lak34ers]

You let your wife drive..............the horrors..............

I know...I have a big front bumper!

 

[swamp2]

I generally keep changing my fluid every oil change till the magnets comes up clean, then just check the magnet every oil change.

@CarbonSteel , I noted you thumbed up this one. Without resorting to UOA, I guess you think this is a good strategy? Will these diffs break in sufficiently so that there are no wear metals on the plugs? TIA.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel , I noted you thumbed up this one. Without resorting to UOA, I guess you think this is a good strategy? Will these diffs break in sufficiently so that there are no wear metals on the plugs? TIA.

I have never not seen wear metals on magnets, but they will reduce over time producing less despite longer runs between oil changes. However, metal paste will always be present.

UOAs are for determining the health of the oil versus determining wear metal generation, but they can provide some insight into wear rates.

PS...I perform UOAs at every fluid change (but that is just me).

 

[Callelk]

I have never not seen wear metals on magnets, but they will reduce over time producing less despite longer runs between oil changes. However, metal paste will always be present.

UOAs are for determining the health of the oil versus determining wear metal generation, but they can provide some insight into wear rates.

PS...I perform UOAs at every fluid change (but that is just me).

CarbonSteel, if you could post some of your Used Oil Analysis as time goes by it would be interesting to compare as you seem to drive in such varied terrain where most folks don't experience Highway/Trail/Rock Crawl in a single outing.

 

[toymaster]

@CarbonSteel ,....... Will these diffs break in sufficiently so that there are no wear metals on the plugs? TIA.

There will always be wear, the thought is removing the metal particles so they do not exponentially increase the wear. And, yes when the gears wear in (polish) the amount of metal particle production is greatly reduced.

..... However, metal paste will always be present.
......

If you always get metal paste, I would say your not changing your fluid often enough. Many do no change gear dope the entire life of an axle, not saying any time interval would not work.

Admittedly if I was paying to have maintenance work done I would not change so often, or if I did not have a convenient place to do the work. I get enjoyment from maintenance activities, almost as much as actual machine use. The way I look at it I invest all my cost 'savings' into better materials. I keep my machines long term, if one has no plans to keep a car just do the bare minium recommended (this is why I never buy used).

 

[CarbonSteel]

CarbonSteel, if you could post some of your Used Oil Analysis as time goes by it would be interesting to compare as you seem to drive in such varied terrain where most folks don't experience Highway/Trail/Rock Crawl in a single outing.

You can follow my UOAs here

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