- First Name
- Max
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2023
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- 319
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- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- Bronco
- Your Bronco Model
- Raptor
thank you for both pieces of information!@Breptar
Also the pan bolts are W500215-S442
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thank you for both pieces of information!@Breptar
Also the pan bolts are W500215-S442
The rear studs hit the pan before the flange on my deep pan. Others have noted it not being an issue. On the Bronco, the studs serve no purpose and having the switch sockets and torque values during the torque sequence is a PITA (thanks Ford).I am doing the deep/high capacity trans pan too. You’re saying you can’t use the stud bolts with the deep pan? If so, do you happen to have a part number for the pan bolts? I’m assuming it’ll look better too since all the bolts will be the same.
They do serve a purpose, just not for customers.On the Bronco, the studs serve no purpose and having the switch sockets and torque values during the torque sequence is a PITA (thanks Ford).
Well...I would not want to put the weight of the transmission on the studs that are on a plastic pan. I get that is likely not the only attachment point, but still.They do serve a purpose, just not for customers.
They're used for transmission removal and also for heatshields on models equipped with them.
We support 10R140's the same way which are far heavier, it's perfectly fine. I'm pretty sure they wouldn't make the transmission adapter for it if it was an issue. It's literally just held up by the studsWell...I would not want to put the weight of the transmission on the studs that are on a plastic pan. I get that is likely not the only attachment point, but still.
Which Bronco model has a heat shield attached to the studs? I seen it on the F-150, but my heat shield attaches via plastic Christmas tree fasteners to the side of the pan flange.
In a way it makes sense...you can only "crush" the plastic so much before it cracks and I guess that amount of weight is not there.We support 10R140's the same way which are far heavier, it's perfectly fine. I'm pretty sure they wouldn't make the transmission adapter for it if it was an issue. It's literally just held up by the studs
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F150, Navigator, Expedition, Aviator, Explorer, Mustang all have heatshields attached to the studs depending on year/engine. Some have it on one side, some have it on both sides, some have it on neither side.
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Bummer. After having used a lot of Helicoils in the past to repair stripped threads, I recently used a Timesert and they are better. Very stout. Nice kits by the individual size with all needed tools are available on eBay. Good luck with the repair.DO NOT TORQUE THE DRAIN PAN BOLTS TO 18-22 ft lbs as seems to be inidcated here. Yes, I should've had enough common sense to know this instruction was misleading/wrong due to the small size of the bolts, but no I did not catch it and stripped one of the 18 bolts. They should be 8-10 ft lbs.
I did replace the filter when I replaced the pan. I was able to reuse the gasket. I don't remember the amount, but I believe it was about 8 or 9 quarts. I measured what I removed, and refilled with the same quantity.When you upgraded to the PPE pan did you also replace the transmission filter at the same time? Also how many quarts did you have to replace ?
So I am installing myPPE pan drained fluid with a pump. But when looking at removing the pan I see that 2 (stud bolts) in the rear are partially blocked by the exhaust pipe. Is there a specific tool you used to remove them?I did replace the filter when I replaced the pan. I was able to reuse the gasket. I don't remember the amount, but I believe it was about 8 or 9 quarts. I measured what I removed, and refilled with the same quantity.
Flex head wrench makes short work of themSo I am installing myPPE pan drained fluid with a pump. But when looking at removing the pan I see that 2 (stud bolts) in the rear are partially blocked by the exhaust pipe. Is there a specific tool you used to remove them?
I was able to get in there with some combination of a 1/4" ratchet and socket head screwdriver, no big deal while everything is cold. With the stud bolts I had to use the longer depth sockets from my set otherwise the long bolt would prevent contact between the nut and socket. Tightening them up to spec with the 18" long 3/8" torque wrench was annoying but still doable one or two ratchet clicks at at time. Flex head like mentioned would work a lot better!So I am installing myPPE pan drained fluid with a pump. But when looking at removing the pan I see that 2 (stud bolts) in the rear are partially blocked by the exhaust pipe. Is there a specific tool you used to remove them?