E load vs C load tires - what's your pick?

[Way2Fast]

Last year I took my 21 Wildtrak to have HOSS 3.0 shocks installed (bought slightly used) and asked for Toyo Country A/T lll to be installed. I was never asked what series. When I picked it up, they had installed E series. I am very happy with them. Quite at 80 mph and excellent for off-roading in Moab for 600 miles. I like that I can deflate to 15psi and still drive 60mph for 30 miles without having to inflate

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[gbub]

I have used only C rated tires since 1977 for all types of terrain short of extreme rock crawling. They have worked very well for me. I do watch the trail to keep away from rocks that can damage my tires. I have had a few punctures that could be fixed with a plugs. None of those were side wall damage.

I learned through the year from fellow travelers that airing down C rated tires gives flexibility in the side wall that allows it to give instead of puncture. I know many people believe the stiffer side wall provide more strength to resist puncture. I can't say that is not true, but I will not be using E rated tires. I might try D rated tires if that was the softest choice in the size I want when my original tires wear out.

 

[userdude]

I have used only C rated tires since 1977 for all types of terrain short of extreme rock crawling. They have worked very well for me. I do watch the trail to keep away from rocks that can damage my tires. I have had a few punctures that could be fixed with a plugs. None of those were side wall damage.

I learned through the year from fellow travelers that airing down C rated tires gives flexibility in the side wall that allows it to give instead of puncture. I know many people believe the stiffer side wall provide more strength to resist puncture. I can't say that is not true, but I will not be using E rated tires. I might try D rated tires if that was the softest choice in the size I want when my original tires wear out.

Well, I had a C-load tire (GY MT) fold and pinch on a wall, cutting a golf ball size hole in the side. I was aired down to 12-14psi, may not have happened at 20psi. That particular set had six flats on three tires in 24k miles.

I personally have no issues with my E-load Maxxis Razr M/T's on my squatty, heavy Bronco, but it's nice to know some folks have wheeled for years on C-load only with few issues.

 

[CitrusBronco]

D here on the Bronco. E for my diesel pickup.

 

[NC_Oak]

East Coast Appalachian mountains. IYKYK.

E Load.

uwharrie can get sharp....

 

[dgorsett]

I dunno. I got E-load M/T's cuz I ginsu-knifed my GY's five times, including a big golf ball size hole in the sidewall within 18 months. So I said not again. I haven't had any bad issues. 19lbs heavier, I run a bit lower in psi, I don't find them sooper loud. Off road much superior. Do what works for you.

I won't buy a GY tire. We used to have them at work and got sidewall punctures all the time. Never could wear out a set 'cause they kept being replaced one at a time.

I've been blissfully running LREs on all my 4x4s for years. It's been many years (I actually can't remember one) since I've had a puncture running rocks and sticks and cacti all over CO, UT AZ et al. I'm running Falkens.

 

[Nick72]

I have used only C rated tires since 1977 for all types of terrain short of extreme rock crawling. They have worked very well for me. I do watch the trail to keep away from rocks that can damage my tires. I have had a few punctures that could be fixed with a plugs. None of those were side wall damage.

I learned through the year from fellow travelers that airing down C rated tires gives flexibility in the side wall that allows it to give instead of puncture. I know many people believe the stiffer side wall provide more strength to resist puncture. I can't say that is not true, but I will not be using E rated tires. I might try D rated tires if that was the softest choice in the size I want when my original tires wear out.

This does make sense. I've had the last two tire places I've used say that Load Range E offers no more protection from sidewall punctures than Load Range C or D. The load range is simply the amount of weight a tire can carry safely.

 

[ODuckNo]

C-load. Ran the OEM RT's at Moab top of the world. Non-issue.

 

[jofer]

E-load here. I'm relatively light and don't tow. But I spend a lot of time in the desert and around old mining infrastructure. I've never ran E rated tires before the bronco, but I wasn't around quite as many sharp rocks as before. I'm not sure if I regret it or not, but I got tired of flats and went heavier.

I shredded the OEM goodyears by ~20k miles. I had multiple punctures that were patchable (lots of old railroad spikes/etc here), but then had a giant sidewall slice out in the middle of nowhere in the Swell. It was on some semi-sharp limestone, but nothing too crazy, and I didn't take that bad of a line. I really did not expect a sidewall gash on that trail, and decided the tires were way too much of a problem. Even though they were still new, I had one completely done for and 3 others with plugs (2 of those with multiple).

I decided it wasn't worth sticking with something that light and went to Mickey Thompson ATs with an E load rating.

I've actually even torn up one of those, though. It was my fault, but strong sidewalls don't always protect you from sidewall gashes. Being stupid (i.e. upgrading suspension and wanting to push it a bit) will tear them up just like anything else.

I ran too low tire pressure (~17psi) + was going too fast (~45mph) around a corner where I could see nothing was coming but couldn't see the big sharp piece of basalt along the side of the road. Pinched the sidewall against the rim and left a huge gash in the beauty ring. Thankfully didn't damage the rim itself. Expensive lesson, but the other 4 tires were still new enough that there was no wear difference with adding a brand new one in the rotation.

At any rate, I like the Mickey Thompsons lot. They are stiffer. I air down lower than I did before. I took a pretty significant (1-2 mpg) fuel efficiency hit because they're a lot heavier. I've been tempted to get lighter method bead grip wheels to mitigate both of those a bit. Traction-wise, the tires are fantastic, though, and they don't throw rocks like the OEM GYs did. I have been impressed with them.

Would I have been better off with C-load tires? Yeah, maybe. But other than the one me-being-dumb issue, I haven't had anything puncture the tires since (knock on fake wood). I like to explore old mines, so I drive on trails with a lot of weird metal bits around. The peace of mind has been worth it i.m.o.

 

[HPNQ420]

Currently running MT SL's. They have held up wonderfully on WI woods trails and were recommended over E for that application.

Will be switching to Nokian Outposts in E before winter as the MT's will need swapping out. I am moving to a larger tire (285/75-17) and this is what I want for the non-trail season. They are very light for an E tire.

Trail tires will be Falken Wildpeak RT's in 35/11.50/17. I'd stick with MT's but they only come in 315 or 12.50. Not a big fan of wider tires in my application. These will be ordered in C. If the MT's have held up here these should be golden.

 

[EvilJim1971]

Running 35" F load rated Arroyo Tamarack RTs .
I hate punctures, and do what I can to mitigate the chance.
Not much rougher or louder at speed than the factory MTs.
At low speed you can feel the chunkier lugs.

 

[dgorsett]

This does make sense. I've had the last two tire places I've used say that Load Range E offers no more protection from sidewall punctures than Load Range C or D. The load range is simply the amount of weight a tire can carry safely.

LRE in and of itself may not offer more sidewall protection, but many, you need to look, have three ply sidewalls opposed to two ply on others and generally more rubber too.

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