Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[CarbonSteel]

For both, as unless you have replaced the rear cover, an extractor/filler makes for an easy day. Not getting all out of the rear is true, but better than nothing.

If someone already is apprehensive on doing these things themselves, think it’s important to share the easiest path to getting it done with as little headache as possible. What may be easy or nothing to you, may be a big deal for someone else. Take the worst case scenario and give options, not just one own’s way of doing things.

Extractors make what can look daunting easy and they’re great for filling fluids too, so good to keep in the garage.

I get it, just pointing out the task is very easy; videos are available to help.

Just a note - If you are ever going to use an extractor to fill after using it as an extractor, make sure it has been thoroughly flushed to remove metal contaminates.

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[Lak34ers]

If you don’t have a front skid plate, getting to the front diff isn’t so bad. What you will need is a fluid pump that can extract, just to make the front and back easier, this should be less than $100. Mine is a Motive purchased on Amazon, works flawlessly and easy to use. Just clean between applications with a hose and some mild soap perhaps, although I think water did the deed just fine. I’ve only cleaned between gear oil and transfer case trans fluid.

Prep to avoid spills are the only concern and some plastic, cardboard from old boxes and or some newspaper with the plastic for painting will be all you need to source.

Perhaps most important, is the self satisfaction you get when you do these things yourself, so as long as you have a driveway that’s shaded or a garage, may actually enjoy it.

Search the thread for the different oil brands that guys like. I’m an Amsoil guy, but think all of the decent brands are good.

Otherwise, yeah, $600 - $800 at the stealership….

Agree. 30 minutes of work and you know it is done right. Valvoline or Amsoil squeeze packs make it so easy! Now that I have the Ford Diff Cover with a drain plug even easier. Used the gasket and bolts that came with the cover and no leaks torque to spec in the pattern recommended. Plus ford cover looks so much better than OEM.

 

[Lotus Dave]

Finally got around to changing front & rear diff and trans case fluids at 19,249 miles. Also installed the FP Rear Diff Cover. Like others, front diff fluid was dark and magnet doing its job:

Same with rear:

I found the cause of an unknown rattle when I removed the t-case skid. You can see the outline of where it came to rest/rust/rattle... For the record, it's not mine.

I found this pump & hose to work well and minimize spillage although it requires a lot of pumps...

Thanks again @CarbonSteel

 

[HP11]

I took today to complete front differential, transfer case, and rear differential fluid change at 4700 miles. As others have reported, I too found the rear differential in need of fresh lubricant. Replaced transfer case fluid with Motorcraft Mercon LV and both differentials with Valvoline synthetic 75W-90 fluid in flex packs. Additionally, I replaced the rear differential cover with the ARB unit ($177 shipped from Extreme Terrain) allowing for ease of future fluid changes. Love the magnetic dipstick and ease of filling the diff with fresh fluid using the flex packs.. Also the magnet on the drain plug is a beast!

 

[BoldNorth]

I haven’t heard much about the ARB diff cover. How does it compare to the FP cover with regard to gaskets and bolts? Why choose it vs FP?

 

[HP11]

Lots of differential cover options out there to choose from; the ARB met my needs. With the ARB cover you reuse the oem gasket and M8 hardware is provided in the this kit. I purchased and used two, 3/8-inch rubber insulated clamps from the depot to secure the rear brake line. I did have to enlarge the clamp's bracket hole slightly so as to accommodate the larger M8 hardware.

 

[huey]

finally time for me to change the fluids
picking up the rear cover using the current ford accessories promo
for those that changed out the bolts - what did you use?

 

[Lotus Dave]

^ I used the nuts/bolts/studs/washers recommended in this thread from BelMetric. The 1/4" Insulated Wire Clamps can be found many places...

 

[huey]

^ I used the nuts/bolts/studs/washers recommended in this thread from BelMetric. The 1/4" Insulated Wire Clamps can be found many places...

thanks - I found just before you posted.
So many pages now took a bit too find lol
Lots of good info in here though

 

[userdude]

thanks - I found just before you posted.
So many pages now took a bit too find lol
Lots of good info in here though

@CarbonSteel Would it be possible to link to that comment on the first post? So it's easier to find/point to?

 

[huey]

@CarbonSteel Would it be possible to link to that comment on the first post? So it's easier to find/point to?

if anyone is looking at this post and wondering the hardware Carbonsteel used - it is on page 9 post 131

CarbonSteel has done a great job detailing out this task - there is just a ton of info
Userdude has a good idea if @CarbonSteel could edit post #1 and add the details to the first page

@CarbonSteel if you ever in my neck of the woods I owe you a beer or three

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/change-driveline-fluids-early.83929/page-9

 

[Mustbeheresomewhere]

Hey @CarbonSteel et al. This is an amazing thread. I’m going to be installing the Ford Performance cover tomorrow.
I have one dumb question. I’m not sure how to tighten the threaded studs where the brake line clamps will be? The studs that you used.
Thanks!

 

[Bronco_MI]

Finally got the rear pig cover installed. Guys, I can't tell you how happy I am to see that $&@! on there! Thanks to everyone who took the time to share your knowledge and suggestions.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Hey @CarbonSteel et al. This is an amazing thread. I’m going to be installing the Ford Performance cover tomorrow.
I have one dumb question. I’m not sure how to tighten the threaded studs where the brake line clamps will be? The studs that you used.
Thanks!

Just tighten two nuts onto the stud and use the outer nut to snug them into the housing. They do not need to be super tight and then remove the nuts and install the cover. Torque the nuts as specified and you should be good to go.

 

[Mustbeheresomewhere]

Thank you everyone for your advice. Everything worked great! Amsoil 75w-140 F&R, BG Syncroshift II in the manual transmission, Ford Mercon LV in the transfer case. 23,000 miles, better late than never.

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