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What is a DR?
Hey since you have a Braptor and are interested in this thread, I have a favor to ask....could you unhook the electronic connection to the front shock(s) briefly and drive around the block and over a few bumps to cycle the suspension???? I'm trying to see if I can use Braptor shocks with out the electronic doodads hooked up ( temporarily until I can get all the modules and wiring)Holy crap you did 40s the right way. That a crazy amount of work.
But are you certain that in addition to a different part number, they are physically different? Just curious. The more I think about it, the less possible it seems FMC would be able to use the identical part.
Might also have just been the source was incorrect...
Well $100 there is a massive score, that price indicates not from a traditional scrap yard, they'd probably want half of new price. I assume you'll get the disconnect working too? It's a great "have it all" system for road manners and improved articulation.
Will do. Are you concerned about the travel sensor as well? Maybe unplug both would be best?Hey since you have a Braptor and are interested in this thread, I have a favor to ask....could you unhook the electronic connection to the front shock(s) briefly and drive around the block and over a few bumps to cycle the suspension????
It’s a little bit of a bummer that puttingthe Bronco Raptor parts on a Bronco aren’t as seamless as putting F150 Raptor parts on a regular F150. Love the old days of my 04 with Raptor suspension and 37’s and the only thing I had to do to adjust was cutting an inch of the inner tie rod off.Do you see a day when a vendor might be able to offer a kit that makes this a bolt in installation?
Hold up, I just called Fox and they set me straight if you unplug it it goes to full stiffness and stays that way. It needs to have five volts provided to the coil to release and RPG sells a kit to do just this, either way I'll be just providing 5 volts to them initially and then later on either buy the RPG kit or wiring the factory stuff and change my ECM parameters to Raptor ones.... I'm just gonna buy Braptor Coilover buckets and weld them on the frame.Will do. Are you concerned about the travel sensof as well? Maybe unplug both would be best?
Gawd dammit! This is awesome!Well I finally acquired all the Braptor front suspension parts I need to upgrade my FE with Bronco Raptor suspension. After installing my 73" wide ultimate Dana 60 rear axle, I need the front to match.
I bought new LCAs and a lightly used set of UCAs and new cut-to-length 4130 axle shafts (35 spline 1.5" thick) and had a set of Tie-rod-extenders made for the very beefy ICON 18mm tie rods. New CV boots from spicer, and a Braptor swaybar ( not pictured) on its way too.
Excited to dive in to this project, these are NOT completely bolt-on parts, some fabrication will be required. Obviously, once the parts are installed, I'll be doing some measurements, and ordering new longer coilovers as well. possibly Braptor s too.
I'll be adding to this thread soon with pictures and details of the swap.
UPDATE:
Made some progress doing a mock up tonight...the Lower control arms BOLT ON with no issues. the upper control arms have a different, wider mount, and use 2 short bolts instead of one long one. I will be fabbing up a new double shear mount for the UCA. my tie rod spacer worked perfectly.
as far as differences ...the Braptor UCA is 2" longer, the Braptor Lower control arm is 4" longer!!! so the average of both arms is 3" wider PER SIDE, than a SAS bronco.
So my new WMS will be almost exactly 75" in the front and 73" in the rear. the Braptor also has a wider front than back track width. I may change the control arm mounts (inwards)by 1" per side to make this match.
one issue is that Ford stupidly changed the taper on the ball joints on BOTH upper and lowers. COME ON FORD Upper ball joint can be easily swapped out, lower is gonna be a bit more technical.
(got lucky with my only taper reamer tool being correct.)
might be able to utilize something like this for a solution.
https://www.afcoracing.com/store.as...le=Steel-Ball-Joint-Taper-Bushing-Adapter----
Still have lots to do like shorten the new 4130 axles' shafts and have them machined for spiroloc and compression rings.
Also, noticed my diff drop is gonna cause clearance issues with the LCA, so that will need adjustment as well.
overall I'm stoked and impressed with how inexpensive this undertaking will be. The whole shabang will be less $$$ than some of those overpriced billet UCAs out there! (not including shocks)
I cycled the suspension without shocks or CVs and 16" travel looks achievable with NO ball joint bind.
The same steel UCA is also used on the Bronco DR, and it gets 15.75" front wheel travel in that setup.
here some pics.
and a few others
here you can see how the Braptor arm is much wider (and stronger)
and the axles I'm using
Price list so far... I'll add to it as I finish things.
New Braptor UCAs $126 Xs 2 NB3Z3084B and NB3Z3085B
new Braptor LCAs $342 Xs 2 NB3Z3078A and NB3Z3079A
Tie rod extensions $225
speedmaster 4130 Axle shafts $111 Xs 2
Used Braptor swaybar $100
All new OEM bolts $73
shipping $100
.............$1431 so far............
Do you mind sharing the part # for the shocks? I've been searching for them in the Ford parts catalog and can't find them.Ordered Knuckles and front shocks they'll be here next week and then the project will continue
There goes the aftermarket. I'm still getting over 35 spline being the new 32.@Ford Motor Company can you put @BigMeatsBronco in charge of Bronco design?
LOL... Perhaps he should have just went with a 3" spacer lift. Then he wouldn't have to get custom axles.About time, if you get desperate you can driveway mill those axles with a grinder!
Going to be tight work welding in those upper control arm mounts.