One thing you have to remember about a crossmember drop lift kit. The front lower crossmember will not be any higher off the ground than what it was before the lift. In other words a stock Squatch with 37's would have more clearance than this lift with 37s.
Edit: @Rancid I found a shot...
That's all right. WE got something you westerners don't have ..........a real hoagie shop, and NOT Subway. 😁
Not to mention the tacos I eat they don't serve in a restaurant. 🤣
Here is a rundown from a few pages back.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/bronco-severe-duty-steering-upgrade-kit-now-available-from-ford-performance-parts.89249/post-2201799
I agree, engine wise. Just remember the F-150 has the 10R80 not the 10R60 like the Bronc. Yes, the Bronc is smaller but remember it does weigh over 5K. Why they did not just use the 10R80 is beyond me but, eh, guess that's why I'm not an engineer. 😁
I have watched the video, more than a few times, I guess I still don't see the issue with being DOT. It is a crash bar mount that a Squatch or WT or FE or HE does not have. You are not cutting the frame you are cutting off and un-needed mount and keeping the body mount in the same location...
I posted this awhile back. Killa Kustoms (Austrailia) did a Coyote swap in a Ranger. In the video it says it took them 18 months to program. Everything works as it should though. 😁
For me, personally, I would just disconnect the negative cable and leave it that way. When you come home, re-connect the cable and your Bronc is ready to go. Battery should not discharge much, if any, when it is not hooked up. No need to buy a trickle charger. That's just me. Whatever you decide...