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swamp2

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The wheels are still 17s 😁 the tires are 40s... because I cut and moved everything up in the wheelwells last year...battery and airbox and all the junk now sits several inches higher than stock, and It's gonna get chopped some more soon too.
My front fenders are modified, cut and the Arc is bigger, and I stretched the Ford metal flairs to the new radius as well.
Holy crap you did 40s the right way. That a crazy amount of work.

Braptor and F150 Raptor Knuckles are NOT the same part number.....so you read wrong.
But are you certain that in addition to a different part number, they are physically different? Just curious. The more I think about it, the less possible it seems FMC would be able to use the identical part.

Might also have just been the source was incorrect...

The Braptor Stay-bar is $1695 brand NEW by itself, so I found a used one, also.
Well $100 there is a massive score, that price indicates not from a traditional scrap yard, they'd probably want half of new price. I assume you'll get the disconnect working too? It's a great "have it all" system for road manners and improved articulation.
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Bmadda

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Bronco Raptor parts, yes they are VERY similar to the F150 Raptor...the aluminum knuckles/uprights are similar too and the bolt pattern, to F150. I'm trying to use regular steel knuckles to stay away from the ultra-dumb and problematic vacuum axle disconnects on ALL Raptors.
Dorman makes a simple delete kit for those if they are the same as F-150...if you ever did decide to go to the Raptor knuckles

EDIT: I just realized that would be "doubly stupid" does regular Bronco hub/bearing bolt up to Braptor knuckle? If so just bolt your original hub bearings to the Braptor knuckles and use your outer cvs as planned w/IWE removed. That would also be a super clean way to delete IWE on Braptor!
 
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5GENIDN

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I read ALL of your posts before I got my bronco and have always been impressed but this.... This is next level! I would love to be a fly on the wall of your shop just listening to the thought processes like working through Fords multiple taper designs.... Yes this will be a priority read for me.

I am just living vicariously here. I love this shit!

I love Brian's Idea... If it would work. Would take care of some taper issues as well but that is a minor issue compared to getting the hub and bearing to mate.

Thank you for the peak into your world.
 

67BroncoG1

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Yep, someone like me😆....most Vendors want to sell you as much of their own stuff as possible tho.🤑🤑🤑...I'll provide a simple weld-on bracket and other doo-dads needed, ( in the near future) and then you can source your OEM Braptor parts from a dealer or junkyard...inexpensive long travel setup with off-the-shelf OEM parts, REPLACEABLE sealed ball joints instead of exposed uniballs. The NEW Braptor electric swaybar is the most expensive part, so if that's not important, then it's really a GREAT deal compared to the $$$$$ alternatives.
That is exactly what I’m hoping for because the cost of long travel from vendors like Baja Kits is just stupid. In fact, I started a thread last month asking if the Braptor front components could be installed and everyone laughed at me.
 
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BigMeatsBronco

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Dorman makes a simple delete kit for those if they are the same as F-150...if you ever did decide to go to the Raptor knuckles

EDIT: I just realized that would be "doubly stupid" does regular Bronco hub/bearing bolt up to Braptor knuckle? If so just bolt your original hub bearings to the Braptor knuckles and use your outer cvs as planned w/IWE removed. That would also be a super clean way to delete IWE on Braptor!
I'm looking into this as well, the Bronco CV looks like it will work on Braptor knuckle, but the seal around the joint may be the wrong size with the IWE removed ....We shall see.
 

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BigMeatsBronco

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Well $100 there is a massive score, that price indicates not from a traditional scrap yard, they'd probably want half of new price. I assume you'll get the disconnect working too? It's a great "have it all" system for road manners and improved articulation.
Th sway bar should be plug and play since the FE already has it...the only visible difference is a big arc in the outer "legs" Braptor LCA has a big bump stop that will interfere with the Normal Bronco Electric swaybar.
 

Valhalla

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I'll be following this closely. If you do start making some parts hit me up and I'll start amassing the parts as this has been the direction I decided I'm going. I have a few parts to catch up on... hope my bonus in May can support my habit!!
Ford Bronco Braptorizing 2 door Bronco... First Edition Warthog... My addiction
 

CustomPerformance

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@BigMeatsBronco thanks for providing the answer to the question most of us have wondered at one point or another! Very cool you are grafting BRaptor suspension to a regular Bronco. I'll definitely enjoy following your progress, and this might very well be my solution for getting another 3" track width per side to match up with the 8" ADV fenders I so badly want on my 2 door!
 

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Bmadda

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I'm looking into this as well, the Bronco CV looks like it will work on Braptor knuckle, but the seal around the joint may be the wrong size with the IWE removed ....We shall see.
Doesnt need a seal there if there is no IWE. The hub/bearing has its own seal. Since you are building custom length center shafts, you could make any length adjustment you need as long as you mock it up that way to start! If you scored UCAs and sway bar from a yard, there must be one w/undamaged frt end. I would call and see if the knuckles are still available. Even if you don't use them, would be good for side by side comparison. If you insist on using the cast knuckle, I still have my original ones if you accidently butcher yours...yours for whatever the cost to ship them!
 

turbo_jimbo

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