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I should have a spare set somewhere that I got from @BigMeatsBronco if you have any trouble finding them. Can't remember if they still had bellows on them, both inners and outers. Dorman makes a 16mm inner now that may be available by itself. Check www.dormanproducts.com

I mostly use this: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/forscan-bronco-working-spreadsheet-double-honk-sport-mode-chimes-seatbelts-and-more.28489/

We know it works, but we don't know if the procal supports it. Worst case you would have to do it the way we were doing it before procal. @Snacktime and @zuke are both non-sas 4dr I believe, and they did successful swaps in the very early days of Hoss 3.0

GMRS works very well for groups, but isn't really for emergencies. Part of what makes GMRS nice is the somewhat limited range (on low wattage channels) and the fact it's FM, so you aren't constantly getting blasted by people who are not in your group. There has been some talk of setting up an...

Man I really wish I had gone w/you guys! Just too much goin on here!

3 raps or roughly 90ft-lb. Couple sharp whacks w/#7 bashing tool to remove. Nut is a self locker, w/washer and rubber washer (for leakage). Re used all. Puller would work fine if thats the route u wana go!

That's about right. I don't have any 5.0s, but 9.0 will ALMOST do 2 air ups...it starts running out on the last tire usually. 12.0 will do 2 air ups comfortably (by air up, I mean all 4)

On a 2dr, absolutely! The longer 4dr driveshaft doesn't put as much angle on that front rzeppa style joint as the 2dr does, so probably doesn't need this style. Wouldn't hurt it tho, and for what the Dana shaft costs, you are only a few dollars away from this one! You're gonna have to install...

Maybe they changed it, but on mine the middle fin rubbed the panhard bar. I have an aftermarket bar now, but it rubbed the original one too. Not hard to fix!

Should. Bolt patterns are the same, just panhard clearance is the issue...that one looks real low profile!

The cover works, but the center fin hits the panhard bar. If you grind it flush right in the center it works (the Dana guys told me this is what they did to make the "Bronco" version)

yes, but note I had this issue BEFORE the portal install. It also has suspension lift

So if you, like me have a lifted 2dr, and actually wheel it, chances are good the boot on your rear driveshaft/front joint (the one at the rear of the xfer case) is torn/shredded etc. Moreover, no Ford dealer I talked to would warranty this...they all claim that Ford will bounce the claim if...

Better off not balancing them at all. Beads DON'T WORK!

Mine won't update after 2012, but what you can do is print out the specs from Alldata or equivalent and type them in manually (what I do)

My alignment machine is one of these types. What I do is clamp the sensor carriage on the INSIDE of the ring. Like you said I have beadlocks on mine and cant remove them. My next alignment machine wont have this limitation, but thats $40k I really cant spend just this moment!

he is talking about 500.1 setup...different from the 200.4. 200.4 setup is done w/no sub connected. 500.1 you leave the main audio system alone. The sub amp stays silent, but the main audio still plays sound (really annoying sound too!)

The 500.1 will not play any sound through the sub, but the main speakers still will. you are probably doing it right. Was confusing to me at 1st too

The "limb risers" were more or less a bust for me. I used them once and mostly they strip leaves and small twigs from the limbs and neatly deposit them on the cowl, blocking my vision. The detent fell out of the pin the 2nd time I tried to put them on, and one came loose and flapped all over...

I have 2 of them. VERY happy with them! I like a solid engagement, and these do just that. Only weird little quirk is when they are cold they make a squeak on engagement like race clutches do (and they are 50% race type, so that makes sense). Only hear it when I first roll off in the am and...