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Advice on Method rims

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userdude

userdude

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I don't mind a little poke... :LOL: So you'd just go 0 offset and fuggedaboutit? Also, that would make me 2 1/3" wider?
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87-Z28

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So you think even with the 2" on the 6100's you'd need a body lift too? I was thinking that would be enough. Hmm. I don't mind a small body lift, certainly cheaper than a small suspension lift. I just wouldn't want a big one. I'd also entertain the idea of a +12 as well, if the bead grips came in that...
lots of different ways to do this. It is best to have an objective that will help drive decisions. My main objective is to fit the 37s without any issues under full articulation while minimizing the suspension lift. I am pretty sure 2ā€ can work. I would like to only have 1ā€ of lift and keep the shocks near mid travel at ride height. Not much room in geometry for shock length increase and thus smaller preload will be required. So that is why I will likely need a body lift. 1ā€ is fine by me. I am also trying to minimizing additional weight. So going with high clearance low weight bumpers. Hard to get around good skids with low weight
 
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lots of different ways to do this. It is best to have an objective that will help drive decisions. My main objective is to fit the 37s without any issues under full articulation while minimizing the suspension lift. I am pretty sure 2ā€ can work. I would like to only have 1ā€ of lift and keep the shocks near mid travel at ride height. Not much room in geometry for shock length increase and thus smaller preload will be required. So that is why I will likely need a body lift. 1ā€ is fine by me. I am also trying to minimizing additional weight. So going with high clearance low weight bumpers. Hard to get around good skids with low weight
Sounds like we're trying to get to the same place. Are you a 2dr? I don't want to hit anything full stuff and turn and (at least for the moment) I think I want 38's (the weight might scare me away). That would give me around 13" of clearance, which is just about what I need for Wolf Caves.

Originally I wanted portals, but those are too expensive, so I guess I shouldn't be too worked up over poke and scrub changes if it's small enough.

I need to keep in mind the wheel well cover too... Hmm.
 

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@userdude

I have a 4dr. I will go with the lightest possible tires. There is an excellent spreadsheet on here that has tire weights. @CarbonSteel

who doesnā€™t want portals šŸ˜‚ I canā€™t justify them or even worse wonā€™t really be able to use them fully right now.
 
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@userdude

I have a 4dr. I will go with the lightest possible tires. There is an excellent spreadsheet on here that has tire weights. @CarbonSteel

who doesnā€™t want portals šŸ˜‚ I canā€™t justify them or even worse wonā€™t really be able to use them fully right now.
I have it bookmarked:



One of the reasons I like the bead grips is that these are almost ten pounds lighter than stock. There's not many 38's, but looking at Nitto Trail Grappler's, the 37's are only three pounds lighter than the 38's. Definitely want the lightest tire I can get away with, but that seems like not a big difference. In that case, I'd probably be fine.

As far as 35's go, the Maxxis tires are the first ones that draw my eye going down that list. With the loss of weight on the rim, that puts me on 35's right around the same weight. On 37's the Kanati's or Maxxis, which would add 8-10lbs.

So what I might do is go with the Maxxis on both, or the Maxxis on the 35's and Milestar or Kanati at 37. There's not many 38's so I'd have to research that, but the Trail Grappler's look like a great option except the weight is 90lbs.

And I haven't even gotten into whether any of these balance well... lol
 

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who doesnā€™t want portals šŸ˜‚ I canā€™t justify them or even worse wonā€™t really be able to use them fully right now.
Well, @Snacktime literally said he wouldn't put them on even if they were given to him. So there's at least one out there. lol :whistle:
 

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Well, @Snacktime literally said he wouldn't put them on even if they were given to him. So there's at least one out there. lol :whistle:
I would not do it either, because of the extra widthā€¦but back to the original question, if planing on going to 37 and canā€™t wait til ya do, get 0 offset (+12/+18 better) now so ya will be ready when ya do get them.
 

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I run +18mm offset as I bought my wheels in the early days. I would not spend the money on anything but 0mm offset knowing what I know now. 0mm offset works with 13.5" wide tires and 18mm is to close for comfort. You might run into issues with aftermarket upper control arms down the road. My next set of wheels will be 0mm offset and most likely 9" wide.

I would look real hard at RTR wheels, they seem to be very rock friendly and fit perfectly.
 

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Hereā€™s my 22 Wildtrack with zero offset Method rims and factory 315 size (35ā€)Toyos. Pokes out just past the stock SAS fender flares.

IMG_6815.jpeg
 

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I would not do it either, because of the extra widthā€¦but back to the original question, if planing on going to 37 and canā€™t wait til ya do, get 0 offset (+12/+18 better) now so ya will be ready when ya do get them.
Portals lock you into your current running gear. I just don't see the long term benefits of portals being a game changer. People will argue the benefits but a buggy on 40s is the next level after full body rig on 37s.
 

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Portals lock you into your current running gear. I just don't see the long term benefits of portals being a game changer. People will argue the benefits but a buggy on 40s is the next level after full body rig on 37s.
Yeah a buggy will always be a better option crawler and 37s are as big as ya can reliably go on stock bronco running gear but portals (with lower gearing) do extend that to 38s, maybe 40s...Of course going to a buggy also locks ya into a tow rig and trailer along with limited usage...And a bronco on 37s is a pretty good all rounder...can do the Rubicon and freeway...
 

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Portals lock you into your current running gear. I just don't see the long term benefits of portals being a game changer. People will argue the benefits but a buggy on 40s is the next level after full body rig on 37s.
No one is locked into anything..... anything can be changed... If you change gear ratio, does that lock you in? I do not want a "buggy".... NOT the wheeling I want to do. I like something I can daily and at the same time I can go to places that I want to go.... Do I need the portals to get there? NO. but it sure makes it easier to get there.... I am not hitting the skids very often. I have enough clearance, I just clear.... That is a really good feeling. Worth every single penny to me.
 

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lots of different ways to do this. It is best to have an objective that will help drive decisions. My main objective is to fit the 37s without any issues under full articulation while minimizing the suspension lift. I am pretty sure 2ā€ can work. I would like to only have 1ā€ of lift and keep the shocks near mid travel at ride height. Not much room in geometry for shock length increase and thus smaller preload will be required. So that is why I will likely need a body lift. 1ā€ is fine by me. I am also trying to minimizing additional weight. So going with high clearance low weight bumpers. Hard to get around good skids with low weight
This guy knows his sh1t

Minimal lift possible to fit the tire size that you want.

Maximize full articulation without interference of the tire against the vehicle.

In hindsight my 4WP trans skid is too heavy. I'd have liked to just yolo and go full aluminum under tray with the fancy plastic sliders.
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