Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[redone17]

What size cable clamps did you use? I know it was mentioned somewhere in this thread…

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[CarbonSteel]

What size cable clamps did you use? I know it was mentioned somewhere in this thread…

I'll add them on the first page. It was a kit that I bought from Amazon.

 

[CarbonSteel]

What size cable clamps did you use? I know it was mentioned somewhere in this thread…

Updated!

 

[redone17]

Updated!

Ah, figured it was that set. I guess for $15 it will be nice to have a variety of those laying around.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Ah, figured it was that set. I guess for $15 it will be nice to have a variety of those laying around.

Yep, because I believe in a couple of years or so, the rubber will dry rot or just crack due to exposure and will need to be replaced. The clamp is stainless so nice to have spare rubber liners around.

 

[redone17]

Ok, last question on here - I swear.

Why did you choose high-temp sealant on front diff and transfer case plugs - but, megatape on rear diff plug?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Ok, last question on here - I swear.

Why did you choose high-temp sealant on front diff and transfer case plugs - but, megatape on rear diff plug?

The rear plugs (the ones I bought) are stainless and the Teflon tape provides some lubricity to make them easier to remove. It likely would be fine with the sealant too, but old habits die hard...

 

[Sasquack]

I would torque the bolts to 22 nm to start and go up to 25 nm if needed. I would not go 30 lb-ft, you are risking twisting off the bolt.

Ford's torque spec is 20nm + 25 degrees. 30 lb-ft would be about 40nm.

I received my FP cover and the instructions state 29.5lb ft for the diff cover bolts. Out of curiosity, where did you come up with your number?

Also, you mention using RTV with the supplied FP gasket, why would you do that? It's either RTV or a gasket for most things that I know of; and curious to your reasoning behind adding RTV to a gasket that is meant to seal?

I appreciate the input.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I received my FP cover and the instructions state 29.5lb ft for the diff cover bolts. Out of curiosity, where did you come up with your number?

I used the OEM gasket which does not require that level of torque; Ford states 20NM + an additional 25° of torque OR 177lb-in + an additional 25° of torque. I would be very cautious tightening 8MM bolts to nearly 30 lb-ft--especially considering the level of thread engagement and the fact the housing is made of cast iron.

Also, you mention using RTV with the supplied FP gasket, why would you do that. It's either RTV or a gasket? I don't use RTV on my head gaskets? Just curious why you would say to use RTV. Isn't a gasket there to seal?

LOL...you would never use RTV on a head gasket and it is not needed as those gaskets have "seals" built in and are made of special materials. In addition, RTV would never stand up to the pressure and heat that a head gasket has to.

The composite gasket that Ford supplied with that cover has a tendency to leak over time because they have little to no compressability. Therefore, I use a bit of silicone inside the bolt holes to ensure that doesn't happen. It can be installed without it, I just don't like leaks, which is why I skipped it all together and used the OEM gasket.

Jeep uses the same axle and gasket and I had my cover on and off at least 10 times on my Wrangler with zero leaks. The OEM gasket is proven and is available. The problem you're going to run into by using that composite gasket is if you ever tear it when removing the cover and need a replacement you're not going to find one. I have found no aftermarket gaskets for the Advantek 12 bolt axle cover--everything currently on the market is for the old 10 bolt generation.

 

[Sasquack]

I used the OEM gasket which does not require that level of torque; Ford states 20NM + an additional 25° of torque OR 177lb-in + an additional 25° of torque. I would be very cautious tightening 8MM bolts to nearly 30 lb-ft--especially considering the level of thread engagement and the fact the housing is made of cast iron.

LOL...you would never use RTV on a head gasket and it is not needed as those gaskets have "seals" built in and are made of special materials. In addition, RTV would never stand up to the pressure and heat that a head gasket has to.

The composite gasket that Ford supplied with that cover has a tendency to leak over time because they have little to no compressability. Therefore, I use a bit of silicone inside the bolt holes to ensure that doesn't happen. It can be installed without it, I just don't like leaks, which is why I skipped it all together and used the OEM gasket.

Jeep uses the same axle and gasket and I had my cover on and off at least 10 times on my Wrangler with zero leaks. The OEM gasket is proven and is available. The problem you're going to run into by using that composite gasket is if you ever tear it when removing the cover and need a replacement you're not going to find one. I have found no aftermarket gaskets for the Advantek 12 bolt axle cover--everything currently on the market is for the old 10 bolt generation.

I appreciate the reply. Exactly, never use RTV with most gaskets, and that is why I asked. Haha. I would sure hope nobody would be using RTV on a head!

 

[CarbonSteel]

I appreciate the reply. Exactly, never use RTV with most gaskets, and that is why I asked. Haha. I would sure hope nobody would be using RTV on a head!

Honestly, I'm not sure why Ford Performance quotes 30 lb-ft on those bolts because that is 40NM which is nearly double the factory recommendation.

 

[Sasquack]

Honestly, I'm not sure why Ford Performance quotes 30 lb-ft on those bolts because that is 40NM which is nearly double the factory recommendation.

Probably has something to do with the Ferolite gasket material. I ran the 22nm with 25 degrees. Seems very tight to me still, so I agree. No leaks yet!

 

[Alanp970]

Changed my rear diff fluid for the first time this weekend at a little over 21,000 miles. Thankfully my fluid looked extremely clean with no noticeable metal floating in the oil. The magnetic plug had a little metal “paste” but all in all it looked significantly better than OP’s fluid. Maybe the 2.3 is gentler than the 2.7? I’ve done some towing at or near max capacity and a fair bit of off-roading so I expected worse. It did have the same black residue that wipes of easily. Before and after pics show shiny parts that were black in the first pic

 

[DirtyMartini]

First off, @CarbonSteel ...thx for excellent advice on early fluid changes....Just turned over 5k mi.

Rear diff fluid looked like everyone else's...dark & sparkly...magnet had typical metal paste accumulation. Installed the FP diff cover for future changes. Front diff not so bad. Transfer case looked ok as well. Cheap & easy to be proactive tho.

Now, on to the question for the group. I'm sure this has been asked, but my google-fu has failed me. I am missing two bolts on the forward diff. Forward hole def doesn't get one. How bout the hole circled in red?

edit to add: 2024 BL

Thanks,

Martin

 

[Ducati1098]

Now, on to the question for the group. I'm sure this has been asked, but my google-fu has failed me. I am missing two bolts on the forward diff. Forward hole def doesn't get one. How bout the hole circled in red?

edit to add: 2024 BL

Thanks,

Martin

There shouldn't be a bolt in either one of those holes. Nothing is missing.

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