Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[GroovyGeek]

Gotcha. Here from McMaster:
Studs - https://www.mcmaster.com/5580N148/

I don't think this stud will work, it has only 8mm thread on one side and 22mm on the other. But this probably will

https://www.mcmaster.com/93675A265/

It is full length thread so no need for washers, higher tensile strength - 125kpsi vs 72kpsi for the one you linked. With an 8mm tall nut this will be perfect. 24mm below the flange, 8mm for the nut, and 18mm for the clips.

It comes in a range of lengths. For those wanting to copy your clip setup a 70mm rod should work well. With only 8mm tall nut against the cover (instead of the 14mm you used) and no need for washers it should be perfect.

Only gotcha are that these are not yellow chromate plated (the plated ones are not available in 50mm length). But the one you had linked to as not plated either. Is it better to get this or a 50mm one with slightly lower tensile strength that is zinc plated
https://www.mcmaster.com/99067A113/

Full selection of these rods here
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/s...mm/material~steel-2/threading~fully-threaded/

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[CarbonSteel]

I don't think this stud will work, it has only 8mm thread on one side and 22mm on the other. But this probably will

https://www.mcmaster.com/93675A265/

It is full length thread so no need for washers, higher tensile strength - 125kpsi vs 72kpsi for the one you linked. With an 8mm tall nut this will be perfect. 24mm below the flange, 8mm for the nut, and 18mm for the clips.

It comes in a range of lengths. For those wanting to copy your clip setup a 70mm rod should work well. With only 8mm tall nut against the cover (instead of the 14mm you used) and no need for washers it should be perfect.

Only gotcha are that these are not yellow chromate plated (the plated ones are not available in 50mm length). But the one you had linked to as not plated either. Is it better to get this or a 50mm one with slightly lower tensile strength that is zinc plated
https://www.mcmaster.com/99067A113/

Full selection of these rods here
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/s...mm/material~steel-2/threading~fully-threaded/

Yeah, not a fan of a fully threaded stud, but it will work and gives you the "one-stop" shop you are seeking. Class 8.8 versus 10.9 is still "good enough". You are only torquing to about 25 lb-ft max--I would stop at 22 lb-ft and see how that works and recheck torque after 100 miles.

Because I was ordering from Belmetric I had more options (and went grade 10.9 on everything including the washers) and did not have to over buy due to the minimums imposed by McMaster.

The OEM bolts/studs as well as the FP bolts/studs are not coated either (just plain black) so you should be good without coating unless you live in the salt zone.

 

[redone17]

@PWillette - I’m running the ARB myself. Grinding isn’t a bad option. But, perhaps I should order some longer studs to be safe. I have been meaning to pull the dipstick and check to see where I’m at after 10k at this point. But, I inspected for weeping several times and all looked good. It’s now covered in Fluid Film - so, not gonna be obvious from a visual standpoint now.

Y’all got me wanting to switch to 75W-140 - but. I’m not too worried because I’ll likely swap to 4.7 or otherwise by the time I’m at 50k.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@PWillette - I’m running the ARB myself. Grinding isn’t a bad option. But, perhaps I should order some longer studs to be safe. I have been meaning to pull the dipstick and check to see where I’m at after 10k at this point. But, I inspected for weeping several times and all looked good. It’s now covered in Fluid Film - so, not gonna be obvious from a visual standpoint now.

Y’all got me wanting to switch to 75W-140 - but. I’m not too worried because I’ll likely swap to 4.7 or otherwise by the time I’m at 50k.

75W-90 should be fine as long as you are not heavily loaded or towing. 75W-140 gives you extra "cushion" and typically retains viscosity better than 75W-90.

 

[redone17]

But, I used 75w85 following the manual before these discussions happened on here.

 

[CarbonSteel]

But, I used 75w85 following the manual before these discussions happened on here.

In essence, that is close enough to 75W-90...

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

Today I tried to get a quote from a local stealership for front and rear diff and transfer case fluiid change... they DECLINED. Said that the recommended mileage is 100k and they are not allowed to do it before 60k. Will be calling other dealers, I can't believe they will not take my money.

Yes, I realize that it is a relatively simple process that I can do myself for under $100 but I just don't want to spend half a day on a weekend under the vehicle, particularly with the rear diff not having a drain plug and having to deal with removal of skids. But if they keep refusing to take my money I may do it myself. Definitely not taking it to a quick lube place for some pimply boy to mess with it.

Do you have an off-road shop near you that you trust or with a good reputation or reviews? If so, talk to them first maybe and ask can you bring your own fluids. They can install that FP rear dif cover for you as well, then you have a plug.

Would trust a good shop over the dealership and likely save a little money.

 

[Dorf2point0]

Okay Sports fans.. Following Carbonsteel recommendations ono Bronco 22 Wildtrak was completed.. The full Monty.. Next up today for 2021 Big Bend with 3.73 differentials .. First off, there wasn’t a fill plug on the front different .. A barb with a hose running up to the engine firewall.. with a combination of the funnel and a fluid pump I was able to seal on the barb enough to get a quart of the good stuff in it.
The transfer case had large Allen socket plugs in it.. Didn’t have the Allen socket set with me.. Still waiting on two more Ford Performance covers.. Ordered three and there was only one in a big box .. They are “investigating” ..
Below is the barb, and what I found on the plug.. Just 6500 miles on the vehicle.. Barely a half a quart came out..

 

[OverlandingPastor]

@CarbonSteel , I don't even have my Bronco yet (build date is 1/31), but thanks to this thread I am fully prepared to change front and rear axle plus transfer case at 2500 miles and then again about every 2500 until break-in at about 25K. Sounds like every 25K after that is a good interval. Super appreciative for your time on this thread.

Already ordered floTool funnel and will plan to get the Ford Performance Rear Diff cover just before first change. Thanks again!

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel , I don't even have my Bronco yet (build date is 1/31), but thanks to this thread I am fully prepared to change front and rear axle plus transfer case at 2500 miles and then again about every 2500 until break-in at about 25K. Sounds like every 25K after that is a good interval. Super appreciative for your time on this thread.

Already ordered floTool funnel and will plan to get the Ford Performance Rear Diff cover just before first change. Thanks again!

Anytime--happy to help. I will post another set of videos for the transmission filter and fluid change as well as an aluminum pan install soon and will tag you on it.

 

[broadicustomworks]

Front diff finally done.
22 whole ounces out (only!!), fresh new 75-90 in.
Will do a heavier weight change this summer.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

@CarbonSteel and anyone!

What the hell kind of bit do you use to unscrew this brake line clip? I can’t get this damn thing for nothing.

Watched a couple of videos, but no one showed or said what bit and how to unscrew it. Also can’t get the clip part either. This is madness!

 

[Bigfx]

@CarbonSteel and anyone!

What the hell kind of bit do you use to unscrew this brake line clip? I can’t get this damn thing for nothing.

Watched a couple of videos, but no one showed or said what bit and how to unscrew it. Also can’t get the clip part either. This is madness!

I haven’t done this yet but don’t you just pull it off? Unclip from the brake line then just pull it?

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

I haven’t done this yet but don’t you just pull it off? Unclip from the brake line then just pull it?

No, it screws anbd is threaded unless not on tight; mine is. Undoing the clip is interesting as well

 

[Ducati1098]

@CarbonSteel and anyone!

What the hell kind of bit do you use to unscrew this brake line clip? I can’t get this damn thing for nothing.

Watched a couple of videos, but no one showed or said what bit and how to unscrew it. Also can’t get the clip part either. This is madness!

The 2 on the rear diff cover? Those don’t screw in. They just pop on and off. You can use a trim popping tool or a screw driver. Just be very careful not to break them obviously. They can stay on the brake line once they’re moved away from the stud a little.

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