Perfect, thank you!Nuts are 5/16 and 9/16. Not metric. Posts are 3/16 and 1/4. Box says large terminal accepts 5/16 ring terminal. I bought some copper crimp lugs on Amazon to terminate the cable ends. I used 4 awg wire same as Warn OEM kit.
When you installed your bracket did you find the solenoid slightly rubbed on the AC line? I did a test fit (held bracket in place; didn’t bolt down) and things seemed tight.Smaller posts i used some terminals from an assortment i had with 18 awg wire.
Negative side is often used to toggle on/off (ground this contact to turn whatever on). Just a convention thing there, no great reason other than with a chassis ground, you are always (usually) pretty short distance to a grounding point so it gets (somewhat) easier to locate your switch wherever you want.I'm looking into adding a disconnect switch for my front winch thanks to everyone's contributions here. The few examples I have seen are isolating the BLACK (-) cable. Anybody with an educated reason for why I should isolate the BLACK (-) cable? Everything in my being wants to isolate the RED (+) side.
I'd ammend this by saying, if I were using a disconnect for isolation as you are planning - I would also put it on (+) side and as close to the battery as I could.
Dang man. What a pain. Not sure what I’d do without seeing it in person. Easy to come up with an idea but then it needs to be completely revised once you open the hood. Just did that with ours where some items took up more space than expected.Anyone use 1/0 wire when doing the relocate? I’m having a bear of a time with mockup fitment. I got one end with 90 degree lugs and the other with normal flat lugs.
The issue on the red and yellow wires are they sit higher. With the 90 degree lugs the controller cover doesn’t fit. Easy solution is notch the cover so it works.
If you use the flat lugs you can’t position the terminal on the screws because the heat shrink is too long & stiff (lol, what she said) to bend back out meaning you would need to notch the bottom/base of the controller for fitment. This likely gets complicated because the metal BAMF bracket would likely also interfere and you would be notching by one of the screws that holds the controller base to the BAMF bracket.
Perhaps a 45 lug would be best but I didn’t see an option for those. Still not 100% you wouldn’t have to notch but if so, it would be a smaller notch.
I’m okay with notching the controller cover (not base/bottom) but even if I do that, the 1/0 wire is going to stick further out the back before it bends down. Meaning there is a higher likelihood of rubbing the hood.
if the hood clears the controller wiring, the next obstacle will be be landing the lug on the Stinger relay. Using the flat end of the cable this forces the install of the relay up using the predrilled holes in the BAMF bracket as the lowest point you could mount. All the pics I’ve seen, the mounting bracket of the relay was moved BELOW the predrilled holes. To shift that down I would need a 90 degree lug on that end.
Yeah, it seems like the issues are compounding quickly. I’m sure there is a way but I’m growing tired of it.
Honestly the only reason we went bigger up front is we had extra wire. I wasn’t as worried about it as the wire might be four feet long. But the back is a different animal. I’m very close to ordering a FLIR just out of curiosity, but remember that the only time I’m likely to really use use the winch the last thing I’m gonna think about is popping the hood and making a FLIR video.
I got one that connects to the phone and it wasn’t expensive - a lot of options with them. It does great for wire and handy for tracking down HVAC issues too. I use it for work all the time.
That is what’s in my cart!
