Need advice on suspension/wheel, etc upgrades for a newbie

[Gonzo]

Finally looking to upgrade my off-road capabilities. I am a newbie here, so I apologize in advance for what may seem like stupid questions. I have spent countless hours grazing builds, mods, and posts.

I enjoy moderate rock crawling currently (i.e. Windrock)

I have a 2021 OBX, 2.7, Sasquatch, hitting just over 50K miles > time to upgrade tires, so let’s do it all!

Weight wise: I have a front winch, all skid plates, and I am chunky, so the rig is heavy, but not overland heavy.

My goals: Add height, add bigger tires, improve suspension, look cool

Limitations: I have a 7’ garage to fit in

My ask: Are the below improvements appropriate? Any obvious omissions? Anything out of the box in a bad way?


Accutune Stage 3a Fox: https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/21-bronco-mid-travel-suspension-kit-stage-3a-fox-2-door-4-door/

JKS Max Tire Kit

RockJock rear tract bar relocation (Not sure if I need this?)

Boss Walker link sway bar system https://www.boss4x4.com/product-p/bb8-wl.htm


Tires:

Real question is: 37” vs. 38”

Why 38’s? I say why not > but I wont get a new set of tires for 50K so go big or go home. Any big opinions one way or the other?

37” options > a ton to choose from
38” > Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 38X13.50R17 D/8PLY


What am I missing? Will have local shop do the work on all of the above. TIA

Sponsored

 

[SierraBronco]

You have a lot of fun coming your way. With tires that big make certain you budget in an upgraded steering rack. Not sure how heavy they are (probably in the tire comparison spreadsheet that was created for the forum) but definitely Hoss upgrade or full 74Weld Stage 3.0. I’ll have to look up the lift when I get home

 

[Brian_B]

Going up to 37" and beyond - you probably want to look at upgrading your Steering. Tie rods and steering rack are going to really get pushed. And yeah, you need the obvious suspension stuff to make them fit without rubbing (lots of options there, I'm staying out of that one - I don't know enough about it).

It's one of those games where when you start to upgrade one thing, and it cascades quickly into a lot of other upgrades - either preemptively or after you break crap.

 

[Fordified1]

To answer whether you “need” the rock jock track bar relocation... It’s cheap and does correct that geometry so do it.

 

[Baja Bronco]

First seriously, what’s your budget?

You might be surprised / shocked to price it all out.

 

[Oldhippie]

May need to add body lift going to 38s….maybe think about diff drop too…yes add at least Hoss 3 steering rack (I’m adding 74weld stage 1 to it) and sway bar relocation is good. Party on!

 

[Gonzo]

First seriously, what’s your budget?

You might be surprised / shocked to price it all out.

Don't worry > I priced it out! A little crazy for sure

 

[SierraBronco]

You have a lot of fun coming your way. With tires that big make certain you budget in an upgraded steering rack. Not sure how heavy they are (probably in the tire comparison spreadsheet that was created for the forum) but definitely Hoss upgrade or full 74Weld Stage 3.0. I’ll have to look up the lift when I get home

Looks like a nice kit man. I’ll never claim to be an expert so take that for what it’s worth.

The site doesn’t really explain what your total lift will be, but based on the description I’m assuming you won’t be maxing out the shock travel and ruining your ride/performance-so that’s good. Ideally you’d want to stay close to your factory geometry to reduce strain on your axles when at full droop-the further you push them the sooner they break. An option is to do a differential drop kit, but now you’re sacrificing clearance. I’m trying to fit 40’s while maintaining factory steering and CV angles. So ADV fenders, a 1.5” Mikellis body lift, and the RKS delete all happened. Next step is portals. I only mention that as an example of other ways to gain clearance without “pushing the suspension down.” Something else you’ll be tempted to do is changing the offset on your wheels or adding spacers-this will help with clearance but has a negative impact on scrub radius which is going to make your steering rack work even harder and be more susceptible to breakage. Speaking of that-DO NOT install tierod braces. Please! The tie rod breaking is going to save your steering rack. It’s an easy fix on the trail. Buy some spares and run with that. Not exactly easy to replace a rack on the trail. (But that’s why you’re going to replace the rack, right? )

 

[Aonarch]

Finally looking to upgrade my off-road capabilities. I am a newbie here, so I apologize in advance for what may seem like stupid questions. I have spent countless hours grazing builds, mods, and posts.

I enjoy moderate rock crawling currently (i.e. Windrock)

I have a 2021 OBX, 2.7, Sasquatch, hitting just over 50K miles > time to upgrade tires, so let’s do it all!

Weight wise: I have a front winch, all skid plates, and I am chunky, so the rig is heavy, but not overland heavy.

My goals: Add height, add bigger tires, improve suspension, look cool

Limitations: I have a 7’ garage to fit in

What is your height now?

My ask: Are the below improvements appropriate? Any obvious omissions? Anything out of the box in a bad way?


Accutune Stage 3a Fox: https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/21-bronco-mid-travel-suspension-kit-stage-3a-fox-2-door-4-door/

Accutune is legit as long as your wallet supports it.

If not, you can go with Bilstein 6112s.

JKS Max Tire Kit

RockJock rear tract bar relocation (Not sure if I need this?)

Yes, get the bracket.

Boss Walker link sway bar system https://www.boss4x4.com/product-p/bb8-wl.htm

I am not a fan at all of these.

Get the Rock-Jock Anti-Rock sway bar instead, unless you already have the Electronic Sway Bar disconnect.

Tires:

Real question is: 37” vs. 38”

Why 38’s? I say why not > but I wont get a new set of tires for 50K so go big or go home. Any big opinions one way or the other?

37” options > a ton to choose from
38” > Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 38X13.50R17 D/8PLY

Remember gearing. 4.70s on 37s is ok... but you really should be looking at 5.13s or 5.38s. 38s will only make this problem worse.

Also axle/ diff strength. D44 is ok with 37s, but you potential of breaking goes up. I'm not comfortable with 38s> on the M210 front diff.


What am I missing? Will have local shop do the work on all of the above. TIA

Severe Duty Steering Rack

See quote.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

Finally looking to upgrade my off-road capabilities. I am a newbie here, so I apologize in advance for what may seem like stupid questions. I have spent countless hours grazing builds, mods, and posts.

I enjoy moderate rock crawling currently (i.e. Windrock)

I have a 2021 OBX, 2.7, Sasquatch, hitting just over 50K miles > time to upgrade tires, so let’s do it all!

Weight wise: I have a front winch, all skid plates, and I am chunky, so the rig is heavy, but not overland heavy.

My goals: Add height, add bigger tires, improve suspension, look cool

Limitations: I have a 7’ garage to fit in

My ask: Are the below improvements appropriate? Any obvious omissions? Anything out of the box in a bad way?


Accutune Stage 3a Fox: https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/21-bronco-mid-travel-suspension-kit-stage-3a-fox-2-door-4-door/

JKS Max Tire Kit

RockJock rear tract bar relocation (Not sure if I need this?)

Boss Walker link sway bar system https://www.boss4x4.com/product-p/bb8-wl.htm


Tires:

Real question is: 37” vs. 38”

Why 38’s? I say why not > but I wont get a new set of tires for 50K so go big or go home. Any big opinions one way or the other?

37” options > a ton to choose from
38” > Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 38X13.50R17 D/8PLY


What am I missing? Will have local shop do the work on all of the above. TIA

Never saw any mention of upgrading your steering rack. I’d do that before adding the tires at that size or the other suspension work. Look at the Ford Performance option if 74Weld is too pricey, but looks like you’re prepared to spend some coin.

With a 7ft clearance limit, you should be careful with any suspension lift, but you’ll need one to articulate 38s without rubbing.

 

[userdude]

With your midtravel kit, I'd probably suggest the AntiRocks instead of the Boss Walker links. With the added travel, having a bar connecting them but allowing articulation should help give you better control.

Also, of course, you need the HD rack at a minimum. If you can afford it, really consider the billet (74W) rack. If you're going to get a midtravel, I also assume you'll get into some stuff, and the billet rack is extra insurance. It also comes with the Ford Performance tie rods, which are plenty good enough.

I've looked at the 38" Patagonias. Make sure you can get an alignment with tires that big; maybe you'll want to keep the stock tires and get some Method bead grips w/Patagonies for excursions. This is what I had considered, especially since I could go a little taller and still get an alignment and fit in my 7' garage (w/portals, which I'm probably not going to get but now looking at midtravel like you).

I might be wrong, but I think you'll also want spacers on the rims to clear inside the well. The suspension kit you linked doesn't say what the lift is, if any. If you do need some for clearance, a small body lift could help.

Perhaps consider a regear or a heavier duty rear axle. I don't think Patagonias are real heavy but they're a good bit heavier than the stock tires, which are very light. Also, the stock rims are very heavy; you can drop a good 7-10lbs in unsprung weight by going to Methods.

Lastly, consider if you want to haul a spare tire or not. If not, you need a spare tire delete. If you do, you need to consider getting a 37/38 on your tailgate (or bumper). TOR sells a pretty beefy setup, plus Hammerbuilt, also Expedition One/APG swing mount, or a basket like DV8's. You don't want to ruin your tailgate.

 

[Gonzo]

Looks like a nice kit man. I’ll never claim to be an expert so take that for what it’s worth.

The site doesn’t really explain what your total lift will be, but based on the description I’m assuming you won’t be maxing out the shock travel and ruining your ride/performance-so that’s good. Ideally you’d want to stay close to your factory geometry to reduce strain on your axles when at full droop-the further you push them the sooner they break. An option is to do a differential drop kit, but now you’re sacrificing clearance. I’m trying to fit 40’s while maintaining factory steering and CV angles. So ADV fenders, a 1.5” Mikellis body lift, and the RKS delete all happened. Next step is portals. I only mention that as an example of other ways to gain clearance without “pushing the suspension down.” Something else you’ll be tempted to do is changing the offset on your wheels or adding spacers-this will help with clearance but has a negative impact on scrub radius which is going to make your steering rack work even harder and be more susceptible to breakage. Speaking of that-DO NOT install tierod braces. Please! The tie rod breaking is going to save your steering rack. It’s an easy fix on the trail. Buy some spares and run with that. Not exactly easy to replace a rack on the trail. (But that’s why you’re going to replace the rack, right? )

Definitely no tie rod braces. I have no idea how to replace the tie rod, but that's why I pray to have buddies on the trail who are smarter than me!

Sounds like the steering rack is a must here.

 

[SierraBronco]

Definitely no tie rod braces. I have no idea how to replace the tie rod, but that's why I pray to have buddies on the trail who are smarter than me!

Sounds like the steering rack is a must here.

Super easy, barely an inconvenience. Takes a 21mm socket, hammer or hard forehead, flat screwdriver, and large crescent wrench. Get on youtube my friend

 

[Gonzo]

With your midtravel kit, I'd probably suggest the AntiRocks instead of the Boss Walker links. With the added travel, having a bar connecting them but allowing articulation should help give you better control.

Also, of course, you need the HD rack at a minimum. If you can afford it, really consider the billet (74W) rack. If you're going to get a midtravel, I also assume you'll get into some stuff, and the billet rack is extra insurance. It also comes with the Ford Performance tie rods, which are plenty good enough.

I've looked at the 38" Patagonias. Make sure you can get an alignment with tires that big; maybe you'll want to keep the stock tires and get some Method bead grips w/Patagonies for excursions. This is what I had considered, especially since I could go a little taller and still get an alignment and fit in my 7' garage (w/portals, which I'm probably not going to get but now looking at midtravel like you).

I might be wrong, but I think you'll also want spacers on the rims to clear inside the well. The suspension kit you linked doesn't say what the lift is, if any. If you do need some for clearance, a small body lift could help.

Perhaps consider a regear or a heavier duty rear axle. I don't think Patagonias are real heavy but they're a good bit heavier than the stock tires, which are very light. Also, the stock rims are very heavy; you can drop a good 7-10lbs in unsprung weight by going to Methods.

Lastly, consider if you want to haul a spare tire or not. If not, you need a spare tire delete. If you do, you need to consider getting a 37/38 on your tailgate (or bumper). TOR sells a pretty beefy setup, plus Hammerbuilt, also Expedition One/APG swing mount, or a basket like DV8's. You don't want to ruin your tailgate.

Thanks for the info!

Trying to decide on the rack now > HD vs 74 weld vs Broncbuster?

Lift will be 2-3" above Sasquatch > Any recs on a body lift that works with the suspension? Not sure what will get the geometry correct.

Will start looking into the Antirocks as well.

Last > I added the Turn OffRoad Tailgate. I feel better rocking the spare, so it should be beefy enough to handle the weight.

I was looking into the Icon Recon Pro's > Will now be focusing on weight too

 

[userdude]

Thanks for the info!

Trying to decide on the rack now > HD vs 74 weld vs Broncbuster?

Lift will be 2-3" above Sasquatch > Any recs on a body lift that works with the suspension? Not sure what will get the geometry correct.

Will start looking into the Antirocks as well.

Last > I added the Turn OffRoad Tailgate. I feel better rocking the spare, so it should be beefy enough to handle the weight.

I was looking into the Icon Recon Pro's > Will now be focusing on weight too

I don't endorse the BB rack since I don't think you need all that; you can get the basic HD rack installed cheaper than the tricked out one he sells, and I don't see any benefits to what he's adding (if I'm thinking of the right one). The 74W rack gives you actual benefits (rigid body, concentricity). I have the 74W rack.

With 3" of lift + 38" tires, that's about 4.5-5" taller taking into account half the wheel height difference. I have about 5.5-6" of additional clearance above my 2dr top in my 7' garage. I figured I could go 74W portals (3.8" or really 3.5") plus 38"'s and I'd get in by about an inch. I don't know you'll need a body lift (I don't think they help with suspension geometry, just body clearance), but I would ask @Bmadda since I know he's used them for clearance.

The TOR tailgate mount is pretty nice, plus they have great customer service. I assume w/38's you can clear the stock mod bumper...?

The Icon Rebound Pros are nice, I had considered them. However, I just appreciate the Method bead grip tech more (less pieces, it's only a rim). Note that both of these rims you'll need to have a tire shop that will work with them. I've heard you basically have to tear the tire up to get them off, and a lot of shops (I understand) don't want to mess with them. That's not a bad thing per se (they are bead locks...), but be aware.

Sponsored