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mObridge

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Really struggling with mounting. I didn’t realize you use a unique cable end to terminate the power and ground into the dsp. The 1ft ground included isnt long enough to reach the existing ground point.

the short cable lengths from the dsp’s output connector make it difficult to put wires in any space.I would have rather crimped my own. I’m sort of regretting taking this project on thinking I was going to be able to avoid mounting anything outside of the right rear fender area.
What subwoofer Box are you mounting on?
You can use a different ground point for the ground wire too
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@mObridge ,

I have a B&O system and like others finding it underwhelming and the bass to be non-existing with the stock sub.
I’ve added the Mabett rear pods with a pair of 6-3/4” Kicker KS, these added some improvement, but not much without being amplified.
I am interested in adding your Bronco B&O DSP/Amp kit to amplify the rear pods and send more power to the sub (that I plan to replace with an 8” in the factory box).
Will I see any improvement with leaving the remaining stock B&O speakers? Is there a tune for them with this system or will I need to replace all speakers with this DSP/Amp kit? I’m not looking to be overly loud, but just a cleaner sound when I do turn it up a bit, while still maintaining a factory look.
 

mpeugeot

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@mObridge ,

I have a B&O system and like others finding it underwhelming and the bass to be non-existing with the stock sub.
I’ve added the Mabett rear pods with a pair of 6-3/4” Kicker KS, these added some improvement, but not much without being amplified.
I am interested in adding your Bronco B&O DSP/Amp kit to amplify the rear pods and send more power to the sub (that I plan to replace with an 8” in the factory box).
Will I see any improvement with leaving the remaining stock B&O speakers? Is there a tune for them with this system or will I need to replace all speakers with this DSP/Amp kit? I’m not looking to be overly loud, but just a cleaner sound when I do turn it up a bit, while still maintaining a factory look.
EZ answer is yes, you would experience a huge improvement (although the B&O base speaker just can't hang). Having amplified and tuned the stock speakers before (with a Kicker Key 200.4) they have a lot of room to sound better with more power and some tuning. It won't be as good as replacing the speakers with a higher quality speaker, but with the DSP tuned, it will be a world apart from the situation you have now.

Still, plan to replace the stock speakers eventually to really enjoy the system fully. My system (except for subwoofer) looks completely stock with the 4" Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 (dash and pods) and Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 602 in the kick panels. These are relatively inexpensive but good speakers.
 

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EZ answer is yes, you would experience a huge improvement (although the B&O base speaker just can't hang). Having amplified and tuned the stock speakers before (with a Kicker Key 200.4) they have a lot of room to sound better with more power and some tuning. It won't be as good as replacing the speakers with a higher quality speaker, but with the DSP tuned, it will be a world apart from the situation you have now.

Still, plan to replace the stock speakers eventually to really enjoy the system fully. My system (except for subwoofer) looks completely stock with the 4" Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 (dash and pods) and Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 602 in the kick panels. These are relatively inexpensive but good speakers.
Been driving the wife’s Explorer ST this past week and the sound system has spoiled me. Jumped in the Bronco yesterday and thought my ears were going to bleed.

I knew the stock system sucked but apparently had gotten accustomed to it. Got high package but no B&O. Seems like forever since I installed audio equipment.
 

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cve

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@mObridge

Can we get the part numbers for the power/ground terminators used on the amp side?
 

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@mObridge

Can we get the part numbers for the power/ground terminators used on the amp side?
I actually just emailed them with this same question. Looking for what the audio jack terminal (no idea what it is) is and to confirm the size of the ring terminal size think its 1/4" or M6.
 
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Could you tell us how you got started? What’s your experience with car audio, dsp, and amps?
 
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mObridge

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Could you tell us how you got started? What’s your experience with car audio, dsp, and amps?
We started back in 2004 with the worlds first iPod Bluetooth kit for MOST25. After that in 2008 we made the worlds first MOST25 Pre-amp which was our dive into DSP processing and audio. A few years after that there we picked up a few OEM contracts to develop digital based DSP amplifiers. This is actually where the K2 is derived from, it is based on an amplifier design we did for an EV car company. The K2 MOST25 has been in the market for over 5 years now, the Ford specific one came a year or so after.
 

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Sent you a PM
Does the pink wire need to be connected to the factory sub? I’m not sure where to plug the yellow connector to? I have a kicker sub in the oem enclosure using the factory wiring.

Ford Bronco Hi all IMG_9560
 
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mObridge

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You can cut that connector off. Some sub boxes have it done don't, if you don't just cut it off and wire directly to your sub
 

drgregharris

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I have a couple of questions. I have a single 4 ohm dual voice coil sub (JL 12TW3-D4). I currently have the two voice coils wired in series leaving me with an 8 ohm load. I'm also only using one of the sub speaker pairs from the amp.

1. Should I connect both the left and right channel to the sub while leaving the two voice coils in series?
2. Should I connect both the left and right sub channel to the sub and change the voice coils to parallel?
3. Can you bridge the amp using the positive from one channel and the negative from the other?
4. Should I leave it how I currently have it wired, but change the voice coils to parallel?
5. Leave things as they are.

Hopefully this makes sense.

Thanks in advance

Greg
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