Hi all

[jabrax]

With this new product, what do Bronco owners experience? @mObridge I was going to replace my speaker pods.... with this new product is the B&O system improved? How?

I'll comment as a Bronco owner who has never upgraded a car audio system before. However, I am particular about the sound of my home system.

I was looking for the most plug and play option available. Went to a local hi end audio store and they told me what I would need. There were at least three components required, and as a newbie who wanted to save on labor, Mobridge was the answer as the all-in-one plug and play component cost was identical (not including labor). I was able to easily follow the instructions, I had a couple of newb questions for Mobrigde along the way, but it really was a true plug and play situation.... EXCEPT - I have 2 door, that required a different solution for my sub (MTI amp rack and tailgate sub) which turned to out to also be good solution because all rattles have now gone away. I was able to use the stock sub wiring and extend to the tailgate easily.

Now I am at the tuning phase which is more intimidating (just begun to study) than the hardware install which is really very easy to follow. The sound as is, wow.... just needs some adjustments for things like blending bass which can be overbearing with current base tune combined with the sources being used. Fun journey, but the first leap has been great!!

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[Draughon]

I have a 2-Door and can tell you that the Mobridge WILL fit, just takes a bit of "driveway engineering" and everything sounds 10x better than before (especially after tuning help from Fraser!). Customer service is second to none - Fraser even sent me custom firmware to help with a power issue I was having - you're just not going to get that from anyone else.

I have the Mobridge system running everything including upgraded 6.5'' pods and the 8'' wakeboarding cans. I had originally put in an 8'' Kicker sub to replace the stock, so Mobridge DSP is driving that as well.

Everything except the 12'' JL Subwoofer (put in a 500.1 monoblock amp for that one).

The ease of plug n play and being able to power all of the stock speakers (even some big upgraded ones) in one unit was key.

 

[mclaffer]

I have a 2-Door and can tell you that the Mobridge WILL fit, just takes a bit of "driveway engineering" and everything sounds 10x better than before (especially after tuning help from Fraser!). Customer service is second to none - Fraser even sent me custom firmware to help with a power issue I was having - you're just not going to get that from anyone else.

I have the Mobridge system running everything including upgraded 6.5'' pods and the 8'' wakeboarding cans. I had originally put in an 8'' Kicker sub to replace the stock, so Mobridge DSP is driving that as well.

Everything except the 12'' JL Subwoofer (put in a 500.1 monoblock amp for that one).

The ease of plug n play and being able to power all of the stock speakers (even some big upgraded ones) in one unit was key.

WOW......holy Sh*t!! What a set up.... Thank you for the update.

 

[mclaffer]

I'll comment as a Bronco owner who has never upgraded a car audio system before. However, I am particular about the sound of my home system.

I was looking for the most plug and play option available. Went to a local hi end audio store and they told me what I would need. There were at least three components required, and as a newbie who wanted to save on labor, Mobridge was the answer as the all-in-one plug and play component cost was identical (not including labor). I was able to easily follow the instructions, I had a couple of newb questions for Mobrigde along the way, but it really was a true plug and play situation.... EXCEPT - I have 2 door, that required a different solution for my sub (MTI amp rack and tailgate sub) which turned to out to also be good solution because all rattles have now gone away. I was able to use the stock sub wiring and extend to the tailgate easily.

Now I am at the tuning phase which is more intimidating (just begun to study) than the hardware install which is really very easy to follow. The sound as is, wow.... just needs some adjustments for things like blending bass which can be overbearing with current base tune combined with the sources being used. Fun journey, but the first leap has been great!!

Hugely helpful as I've never upgraded a car audio system either. I've been following this thread for a year or more. Thank you!

 

[Draughon]

Proof that the 2D panels fit! And full disclosure, I had NEVER done this before and learned all as I went. The Bronco is very forgiving to give you access to run wires, pull out seats, pop off panels, etc - so it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be.

(excuse the temp location of the sub - I'm going to mount it against the passenger side panel / molle to keep some storage space back there.

Oh, and it JAMS!

This was a few weeks ago - hitting nearly 120DB - after Fraser tuned it it's sitting pretty @ 125+ - so def no issues hearing your tunes with the top off!

WOW......holy Sh*t!! What a set up.... Thank you for the update.

 

[jganna_USMC]

Just installed Fraser's @mObridge AMP/DSP and it is very much worth it and very easy to do !
I am very "green" when it comes to audio installs and I had it done fairly quickly.
The most time consuming part is tearing out the panels and trim pieces.

Just have to do some final tuning (Which Fraser had said he would do) and it will be complete.

If you are on the fence, take the leap !
And the customer service is unrivaled !!

 

[Msav]

Unfortunately you will definitely have to run thicker power wires, we will have a how to video for this shortly. Not actually as big of a job as I thought it would be as there is a spare gromet in the firewall. Our kit will include everything you need shortly!

So if you want to run the factory speakers, our amp has channel limit settings you can setup so you don't overdrive them!

No forscan coding needed, no wires cut. Full plug and play just need to do some wire running.

Where can I find the video on how to run that thicker power wire for the amp?
Also, with the bigger amp and power would I need to run all new thicker gauge speaker wire to the speaker locations or would the factory gauge wire suffice for handling the power from the new amp?

 

[Brian_B]

Where can I find the video on how to run that thicker power wire for the amp?
Also, with the bigger amp and power would I need to run all new thicker gauge speaker wire to the speaker locations or would the factory gauge wire suffice for handling the power from the new amp?

@RagnarKon has a lot of great info on this. Running a new power wire through the firewall is a very common thing - and there are a lot of good guides for it. Once you get through the firewall you can either go through the driver's door sill and then across the back seat hinge area, or across the dash and then through the passenger door sill - when you pull plastic sills up you will see the wire channel that runs all the way back to the rear cargo area. Getting through the firewall is the hardest part, and even that isn't so bad - the rest is easy peasy. Just make sure to use a fuse near the battery. There is a good ground back by the sub (the same one the OEM amp uses) so you only need 1 power wire.

Here's a decent video showing the best spot to get through the firewall - FF to about 10:20. There are dozens of other posts and videos around here on the same thing.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ring-through-the-firewall.41514/#post-2148003

There is the existing amp wiring, and there are pre-run wires through the firewall, but I wouldn't suggest using any of those as they are going to be smaller than recommended for a new amp. I'd recommend #10 or #8 for the power line.

 

[Draughon]

Where can I find the video on how to run that thicker power wire for the amp?
Also, with the bigger amp and power would I need to run all new thicker gauge speaker wire to the speaker locations or would the factory gauge wire suffice for handling the power from the new amp?

Factory gauge is fine for all the speakers - so no worries there. There's an install guide on the mobridge site you can download and take a look at.

I did mine a bit differently, ran the power wire down the driver's side as suggested, but ran the DSP wire down the passenger side to keep things a bit cleaner.

Turns out that was the right call, because I put in ANOTHER amp to run another subwoofer box and had to run another power wire down the driver's side to the same area.

 

[DeepSea]

I'll comment as a Bronco owner who has never upgraded a car audio system before. However, I am particular about the sound of my home system.

I was looking for the most plug and play option available. Went to a local hi end audio store and they told me what I would need. There were at least three components required, and as a newbie who wanted to save on labor, Mobridge was the answer as the all-in-one plug and play component cost was identical (not including labor). I was able to easily follow the instructions, I had a couple of newb questions for Mobrigde along the way, but it really was a true plug and play situation.... EXCEPT - I have 2 door, that required a different solution for my sub (MTI amp rack and tailgate sub) which turned to out to also be good solution because all rattles have now gone away. I was able to use the stock sub wiring and extend to the tailgate easily.

Now I am at the tuning phase which is more intimidating (just begun to study) than the hardware install which is really very easy to follow. The sound as is, wow.... just needs some adjustments for things like blending bass which can be overbearing with current base tune combined with the sources being used. Fun journey, but the first leap has been great!!

Good day Jabrax, I have a 2 Door Ford Bronco and I’m in the process of upgrading my B&O System…. This is very helpful, I might reach out to you for guidance when I have everything in hand.

 

[brkdncr]

@mObridge I have a 2023 2-door with the b&o system/sub. What kit should i buy?

I've upgraded the front and rears to deci DCx-1003 and the kicks to Hertz Centro C165L low-frequency woofers.

I plan to modify the stock subwoofer box with an 8" kicker CompRT so as to save on space.

Do you recommend converting the sub box to sealed?

Do you recommend 2ohm or 4ohm for the DVC CompRT?

Besides sound deadening, anything else I should be doing?

 

[mObridge]

@mObridge I have a 2023 2-door with the b&o system/sub. What kit should i buy?

I've upgraded the front and rears to deci DCx-1003 and the kicks to Hertz Centro C165L low-frequency woofers.

I plan to modify the stock subwoofer box with an 8" kicker CompRT so as to save on space.

Do you recommend converting the sub box to sealed?

Do you recommend 2ohm or 4ohm for the DVC CompRT?

Besides sound deadening, anything else I should be doing?

Order the Bronco kit and use the code 2DRBRONCO and youll get an aditional $80 off and we wont include the mounting bracket which you cant use in the 2 door.

https://mobridge.us/wp-admin/post.php?post=3587&action=edit

Thankfully we do have a tune for that exact setup with the kicker.

I have only ever heard and measured the kicker in the non sealed factory box. It had decent output but it wasnt super linear, there was a huge null at 70 hertz which i suspect to be the port. Id say see how you go with it open and try sealing it if you dont like it.

You will need the dual 4ohm, that can then be wired in parallel and our amp will see a 2ohm load (400w RMS)

Sound deadning, amp and speakers is pretty much all you need for a full system overhaul. Maybe some polyfill for the sub enclosure.

 

[brkdncr]

Order the Bronco kit and use the code 2DRBRONCO and youll get an aditional $80 off and we wont include the mounting bracket which you cant use in the 2 door.

https://mobridge.us/wp-admin/post.php?post=3587&action=edit

Thankfully we do have a tune for that exact setup with the kicker.

I have only ever heard and measured the kicker in the non sealed factory box. It had decent output but it wasnt super linear, there was a huge null at 70 hertz which i suspect to be the port. Id say see how you go with it open and try sealing it if you dont like it.

You will need the dual 4ohm, that can then be wired in parallel and our amp will see a 2ohm load (400w RMS)

Sound deadning, amp and speakers is pretty much all you need for a full system overhaul. Maybe some polyfill for the sub enclosure.

Ordered!

 

[brkdncr]

Really struggling with mounting. I didn’t realize you use a unique cable end to terminate the power and ground into the dsp. The 1ft ground included isnt long enough to reach the existing ground point.

the short cable lengths from the dsp’s output connector make it difficult to put wires in any space.I would have rather crimped my own. I’m sort of regretting taking this project on thinking I was going to be able to avoid mounting anything outside of the right rear fender area.

 

[mObridge]

Really struggling with mounting. I didn’t realize you use a unique cable end to terminate the power and ground into the dsp. The 1ft ground included isnt long enough to reach the existing ground point.

the short cable lengths from the dsp’s output connector make it difficult to put wires in any space.I would have rather crimped my own. I’m sort of regretting taking this project on thinking I was going to be able to avoid mounting anything outside of the right rear fender area.

What subwoofer Box are you mounting on?
You can use a different ground point for the ground wire too

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