Exploring off-the-shelf tie rod upgrades

[BigGarnet]

Honest question. Why upgrade the tie rod if all evidence shows your gonna blow up your steering rack instead? Wouldn’t you want the tie rod to be the cheaper easier sacrificial part?

“All evidence” doesn’t even come close to saying that upgrading the tie rods blows up the steering rack. Where did you get that? Evidence is that the steering rack is at risk when you lift the truck and the angles change. Not otherwise.

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[BigMeatsBronco]

After doing some spec hunting I have sets of tie rods coming from 3 different vehicles to compare. 2 make sort of sense: 2005 F150 and same era Ranger. The 3rd? 2010 ish VW Toureg.

I think a factor in these bending is the offset outer tie rod. It loads the threads at an angle. I don't have my stock +55 offset wheels on but it looks like if I did, the TRE offset would be to clear them. If the F150 tie rod pans out, the 09-14 version has an offset for those that would need it.

I had a toureg and the cayenne on 33s (virtually identical undercarriage) the tie rods are tough and have good articulation ...never had any issues except the rack mounts are a rubber bushing and get loose.

The porsche got wheeled hard and jumped and had wheel spacers and a whopping 521 hp that I used in full daily. TC off and full throttle would smoke all fours...nothing like the stress of 37s but still strong.

 

[1Five1 Garage]

I talked to the parts department at the dealer and got a set coming. A just in case set. Not just for me but anyone with a Bronco that may be out with us. It was cheap insurance $130 for the set.

Side note... the tie rod end sleeves from Poly Performance shipped. they are quick to send them out.

 

[RainbowStix]

I don't understand why you would steer away from heims? They are far stronger than any tie rod. You can get safety washers for them when ran as a single sheer application. I ordered a spare inner as well and will build a set of tie rods sourcing the parts. I have literally driven thousands of miles on steering that has heim joint ends with 40" tires and hydro assist.

They ride like crap, and the Broncbuster guy running 40s broke like 3 of them before going back to stock with his brace

Honest question. Why upgrade the tie rod if all evidence shows your gonna blow up your steering rack instead? Wouldn’t you want the tie rod to be the cheaper easier sacrificial part?

Get the rack reinforcement

 

[drew707]

H.O.S.S. 3.0 uses F-150 tie rods. Raptor equally uses F-150 Raptor tie rods.

AFAIK there was no modifications made to them to put them into the “upgraded” rack. The only other upgrade to the rack was a different motor. In theory the case was supposed to change but I haven’t noticed any real change but also don’t get much time to mess about with things on a work bench

 

[Blue Hen]

The video with Vaughn Gittin Jr. in a stock Bronco. Professional driver. Knows the trail. Has a lot of seat time in the Bronco. I'm sure in his testing and other drivers for Ford, have broken a few tie rod ends. Still doesn't change my mind on buying a Bronco. When you wheel hard or choose a bad line things will break or bend. Will l carry extra parts with me at all times, you bet. Better to have than not.

 

[Evolkidbell]

Stock Bronco 1st Edition and they didn't need upgraded tie rods.

The Fun-Runner popped a rack at Moab. Had their upgraded Tie-Rods, paired with Stock Rack. Was told it's the standard one, not the HOSS 3.0 upgraded rack.

IMHO, ball joints are better in single shear suspension components than rod ends/heims. They tend to have similar strength and have far more angular travel. You can even get rebuildable ones that are far stronger than rod ends/heims. If you are double shearing a joint, of course, a rod end/heim is the only way to go.

 

[We_Love_Tacos]

Have you looked at the RPG tie rods? I may go this route.
https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/bronco-full-tie-rod-kit/

 

[Tricky Dick]

H.O.S.S. 3.0 uses F-150 tie rods. Raptor equally uses F-150 Raptor tie rods.

AFAIK there was no modifications made to them to put them into the “upgraded” rack. The only other upgrade to the rack was a different motor. In theory the case was supposed to change but I haven’t noticed any real change but also don’t get much time to mess about with things on a work bench

I knew I was on to something!

 

[Tricky Dick]

Have you looked at the RPG tie rods? I may go this route.
https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/bronco-full-tie-rod-kit/

I wouldn't buy those if they where half the price of tie rods, and certainly not for nearly a grand. They have no place on a street Bronco.

 

[Tricky Dick]

The Ranger tie rods came in today. The inner/outer combo is too short, but the inner has potential to work with the Bronco outer. I'm not taking it back off to verify until all the candidates show up.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

https://www.kartek.com/parts/large-...mx10t-58-hole-built-in-misalignment-heim.html

Heim Tapers

These are close ,but too short to use the misalignment spacer caps.

The Fabtech ones are much longer.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

From the guy who designed the BroncoBuster fix:
#2 please please please reconsider adding any form of Hiem tie rod!!! 3/4 of my failures in initial testing have been using Hiem joints. My own build, and then another manufactures. There is not enough articulation in the Hiem and it’s like an over stretched rubber band! It will break something!! I won’t mention who due to confidentiality in what I do but I personally know of two blown steering racks this last week due to Hiem tie rods.”

Now I’m not a fan of BroncoBuster. I think he’s gouging for both parts, so TIFWIW. I do also think he knows what he’s doing to a degree. I’m adding JKS tie rod sleeves, at $50 per pair. Hopefully they are enough. Still don’t know what I’ll do with the rack.

Ok while I'm no fan of him or poor quality heims, it is clear from my observations that the angle achieved is the same or very very close to the same with the OEM outer tie rod joint when compared to a very quality FK heim with misalignment spacers installed. Not advocating for them, just saying that the reason he advised against them is to sell his silly band-aid clamps that only fit OEM. Here's pics ....



So not much is gained with these, they just wear out faster and aren't really any stronger unless the mount was redesigned for double shear at both ends.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

In my opinion, the failure is occurring due to the position of the low height of the joint in the upright casting. This point is too low. For example at my SAS +2" ride height, the OEM outer tie rod joint can only handle about 3.5" of downward droop before it will bind and then break something like the rack or the tie rod. HOWEVER it will go up or in compression it will travel 13.5 " upwards before the OEM joint binds!!! ...

So this means the joint is NOT centered properly in the middle of the suspensions travel.

This is the biggest issue because at ride height the tie rods is already at severe angle when it should be nearly flat.

 

[rainman23]

In my opinion, the failure is occurring due to the position of the low height of the joint in the upright casting. This point is too low. For example at my SAS +2" ride height, the OEM outer tie rod can only handle about 3.5" of downward droop before it will bind and then break something like the rack or the tie rod. HOWEVER it will go up or in compression it will travel 13.5 " upwards before it binds!!! ...

So this means the joint is NOT centered properly in the middle of the suspensions travel.

This is the biggest issue because at ride height the tie rods is already at severe angle when it should be nearly flat.

This makes a ton of sense. What’s the fix? I’m still working on increasing my understanding of how this front end suspension and steering work.

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