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A, B, or C cup?

HotdogThud

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Clubs
 
my K02's wear the exact same way, and I still get 45k from a set. I really wouldn't sweat it, other than they get noisy when they wear down
 

glashaus

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I honestly don't remember where I got the brackets. They just melt directly to the modular bumper and stick out far enough to attach the lights.

20260109_174214.webp
Thanks for the response, those mounts looks like the KC A pillar mounts

Ford Bronco A, B, or C cup? IMG_6100


I have these for my KC ditch lights, this mount was a choice, before I found something that may work after I mod it. I wanted something that bolted to both the front and top bolt holes on the mod bumper, it what I have coming does not work out, I will order a set of the A pillar mounts. I am mounting a pair of KC Flex ERA 1’s , one to each side of my winch

Ford Bronco A, B, or C cup? IMG_6101
 

Boreal

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My KO2s had Alternating Lug Wear like that. Alignment was good. Balance was good. Pressure was good. All 5 wore identical and it made no difference.

IMO, it’s part of BFG ownership. Falkens and Nittos have been fine since, with components(bushings, shocks, etc) being far more worn
 

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Rydfree

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Thanks for the response, those mounts looks like the KC A pillar mounts

IMG_6100.webp


I have these for my KC ditch lights, this mount was a choice, before I found something that may work after I mod it. I wanted something that bolted to both the front and top bolt holes on the mod bumper, it what I have coming does not work out, I will order a set of the A pillar mounts. I am mounting a pair of KC Flex ERA 1’s , one to each side of my winch

IMG_6101.webp
You guys are fancy. I couldn't really find anything so I made my own from some cut down 3/16" uni-strut angle brackets. They seem to be solid and don't move but I would like something to attach to the upper bolt as well. If you find something that works let me know. I may just lay a flat pc on top and weld it together if nothing is commercially available.

Ford Bronco A, B, or C cup? brackets paint
Ford Bronco A, B, or C cup? brackets installed
Ford Bronco A, B, or C cup? Helm 7 amber
 

glashaus

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You guys are fancy. I couldn't really find anything so I made my own from some cut down 3/16" uni-strut angle brackets. They seem to be solid and don't move but I would like something to attach to the upper bolt as well. If you find something that works let me know.

brackets paint.webp
brackets installed.webp
Helm 7 amber.webp
Nice! I am an old electrician and I was thinking uninstrut as well, I figured that I could always make that work, I figured that I would give something a try to get to use both the front and top bolt holes
 

Valhalla

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I have seen many aggressively treaded tires do this.
 

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dgorsett

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Per ChatGPT (uploaded your pic), this is what it spit out.


Most likely causes (in order):


  1. Too much negative camber
    • Common on Broncos, especially Sasquatch or lifted/leveled setups
    • Causes the inner shoulder to carry most of the load
    • Often drifts after lifts, wheel offset changes, or suspension settling
  2. Toe out of spec (often toe-out)
    • Scrubs the tread instead of rolling it
    • Accelerates inner-edge wear
    • Combined with camber, it will eat the inside lugs fast
  3. Aggressive tread + IFS = lug chopping (“every other lug”)
    • Seen on KO2, Ridge Grappler, Duratrac, Baja Boss, Territory MT, etc.
    • Slight alignment errors cause the tread blocks to oscillate under load
  4. Underinflation as a contributing factor
    • Especially if trail pressures are run too long on pavement
    • Increases tread block flex, worsening the uneven lug wear
  5. Possible suspension wear (less common unless higher mileage)
    • Upper control arm bushings, ball joints, or tie rods can exaggerate camber/toe issues

What should be done:


  • Get a full 4-wheel alignment ASAP
    • Ask for a before/after printout
    • Camber and toe matter more than caster for this issue
  • Verify street tire pressures (don’t run trail PSI on pavement)
  • Continue 5-tire rotations every ~4–5k miles
  • Inspect suspension if alignment won’t hold

Bottom line:
This wear pattern is classic negative camber + toe combined with aggressive tread, not a rotation problem. Once it starts, rotation won’t stop it without fixing alignment.
#3. I like #3.
 

swamp2

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I honestly don't remember where I got the brackets. They just melt directly to the modular bumper and stick out far enough to attach the lights.

20260109_174214.webp
Interesting choice of cable protection there. Metal flexible conduit used in buildings?
 

Valhalla

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All the old KCs came like that.
 

Rydfree

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