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PSA - check your torque marks

Brian_B

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For those that don’t want to read the novel: use a paint pen to mark after you torque bolts. Check them often.

The long version:

The RSE slider plates for the powered steps I had ordered for the Coyote Lake run didn’t come in in time for the Lake, but they did eventually come in. I finally got around to installing them last week.

And right afterward, something started rattling like hell.

So it’s obviously the new slider reinforcement plates. I go digging around and strip out a body mount
bolt in the process. Get all that fixed, still rattles.

Really sounds like a loose skid plate, but all those bolts are tight. Now I’m convinced its the step is loose in the housing. It had a tensioning spring, so I monkey with that. Steps are now taunt. Still rattles.

Sunday rolls around and I run Shuteye with a friend (my favorite trail) - we are up in the mountains all day running around. It’s rattling the entire time. I crawl underneath a couple of times and look around: skid plates are tight, drive shafts are good, shock mounts are good, it’s driving fine and nothing obviously wrong. So I turn the radio up and finish the run. All good, a great run, was my friend’s first time.

Get home, wash it all up, still can’t find anything. We drive out to lunch down the road; still rattles. Wife is convinced it’s a loose skid plate, and once she’s convinced, well, you just have to follow through. So I wait for it to cool down a bit and resign to just dropping the skid plates one at a time until I figure it out.

Right after I grabbed the socket for the first plate, I notice this guy just setting down in the front plate.

Ford Bronco PSA - check your torque marks IMG_0313


He’a just setting there. Nothing holding him in, no lip on the plate, he isn’t hung up on anything. Just chillin’

So… I wonder what it goes to. I start looking around. I don’t immediately recognize this bolt. But I had done the FDU earlier this winter… those all look good though. My sta-bar bolts are in my pocket (I had pulled them for the run and was gonna re-install them while I was under here). I start to pop the hood thinking it must be something in the engine bay, when I notice out of the corner of my eye:

Ford Bronco PSA - check your torque marks IMG_0314


I’ll be hornswaggled. I didn’t install these UCAs, and I had never unistalled them, but after 86,000 miles I can’t really blame the installer any more — these did have torque marks and I just hadn’t been doing a good enough job of checking them.

I never thought to check the UCA because
a) I had just monkeyed with a skid plate
and
b) it was driving absolutely fine

Three major miracles here:
- I didn’t go on the freeway with this, thankfully (and I had nearly done so today)
- The nut somehow survived an entire off-roading run to 8,500’ just chillin’ on a skid plate- it isn’t a particularly challenging run but there are rocks. And at least two lunch runs
- I didn’t feel anything crazy with the steering, even though the entire knuckle was just hanging completely loose

Well, I needed new UCAs anyway, the bushing in this one is obviously shot (can see it in pieces by the head of the bolt there). It all snugged back up when I put the nut back on, but I will have to bump up my purchasing timeline some I reckon.
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GI_Jo_Nathan

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Wow you definitely got lucky! Those things seem to want to work loose.

I started getting a clunk every now and then when we were out in Moab, and finally figured out that my driver's front UCA was just barely loose. Can't believe you didn't have any noise. I kept snugging it up, but didn't quite have the exact right tools. I've since fixed that problem.

I might still have my stock uppers laying around if you want them for the cost of shipping. I would have to check and see though.
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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I might still have my stock uppers laying around if you want them for the cost of shipping.
Appreciate the offer but I'll hold off on doing anything just for a bit and see how it settles. These are RCs and the boots have been blown for a long time, and my alignment already shows that I need a larger set pretty badly. So I'll just start saving my spare change
 

GI_Jo_Nathan

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Appreciate the offer but I'll hold off on doing anything just for a bit and see how it settles. These are RCs and the boots have been blown for a long time, and my alignment already shows that I need a larger set pretty badly. So I'll just start saving my spare change
Gotcha! I'm running the 4WP/ProComps. I've been really great, they do get a little noisy sometimes and I have to grease them. But I do like that they are greaseable. Also I got them for like $60 bucks so definitely worth the price of admission for me. 😁

I really don't know what I would go with if I had to choose again anytime soon. Most of them the seem way overpriced.
 

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Brian_B

Brian_B

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Wondering if I can see the knuckle flaoting around in this vid

 

GI_Jo_Nathan

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Wondering if I can see the knuckle flaoting around in this vid
Hmm... Does seem like it may have some strange movement.
 

Oldhippie

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The dealer found my UCA bolt about to fall off like yours (they sent me video of it moving all around up on the rack) at the oil change…no noise or weirdness…I do check them now…
 
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23OBX2.7

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Should never have to check susp.compnents torque if use new nuts and loctite, unless hard core racing or abuse, I less using low grade aftermarket stuff.

I've never ever had a bolt come loose on anything.....
 

CitrusBronco

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I had the same experience as "GI_Jo_Nathan
I was hearing a small clunk when moving from still to forward under tension, like on a small incline or from reverse to forward.
I could not find the cause, one day when I jacked up to shake the wheels, holy cow it was jiggling. My bolt was about 2 turns loose, I noticed no bushing damage and I added a paint mark so I can do a quick check on it.
 

vrtical

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I have learned to spot check at least my suspension for loose stuff. Everything I touch now gets loctite and torque.
 

rbroncotx

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Loctite won't save a body mount. Those lose clamp load because the bushing settles, not because the threads back out. Anything with rubber in the stack is worth a re-torque after a few hundred miles and again after the first hard trail day.
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