Kicker Key 200.4 Done Correctly

[AZCoyote]

So when you unplug the kicks you have also unplugged the dash speakers. The kicks and dash are wired in a parallel. The current goes to the kicks and flows thru the kicks and onto the dash. If you look at your stock kick panel speaker it has 4 terminals. 2 go to the kicks and 2 for the current to flow on to the dash speakers. Easy fix, you need the Metra 72-5602 wiring harness. This is the harness you would get if you replaced your kick panel speakers. Just plug it in. You will not use the 2 spaded terminals as they would normally be used to go to your "new" kick panel speakers. The harness has a loop that will allow the current to flow onto your dash speakers. It is unimportant how I know this information. LOL Hope the above made sense. Metra Electronics | Products

Good catch drewski. I read that originally that he had ran new wires to the kick and left the dash wired to the stock wires. It’s been a long week.

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[MannyG20]

So when you unplug the kicks you have also unplugged the dash speakers. The kicks and dash are wired in a parallel. The current goes to the kicks and flows thru the kicks and onto the dash. If you look at your stock kick panel speaker it has 4 terminals. 2 go to the kicks and 2 for the current to flow on to the dash speakers. Easy fix, you need the Metra 72-5602 wiring harness. This is the harness you would get if you replaced your kick panel speakers. Just plug it in. You will not use the 2 spaded terminals as they would normally be used to go to your "new" kick panel speakers. The harness has a loop that will allow the current to flow onto your dash speakers. It is unimportant how I know this information. LOL Hope the above made sense. Metra Electronics | Products

You are correct sir!! I got home from work and hadn't seen your message so I went out to look at the amp again. I checked every wire. I booted up Forscan to make sure I hadn't turned off the dash speakers. I played with the amp switches to see if maybe one of them was 'glitchy'. I finally decided to unhook the kick panel speakers from the new wiring and reattach the metro adapters (glad I didn't throw them away) and yes the dash speakers came back.
I told my wife I fixed my problem but I didn't know why - thanks for telling me the 'why'.

 

[23OBX2.7]

So when you unplug the kicks you have also unplugged the dash speakers. The kicks and dash are wired in a parallel. The current goes to the kicks and flows thru the kicks and onto the dash. If you look at your stock kick panel speaker it has 4 terminals. 2 go to the kicks and 2 for the current to flow on to the dash speakers. Easy fix, you need the Metra 72-5602 wiring harness. This is the harness you would get if you replaced your kick panel speakers. Just plug it in. You will not use the 2 spaded terminals as they would normally be used to go to your "new" kick panel speakers. The harness has a loop that will allow the current to flow onto your dash speakers. It is unimportant how I know this information. LOL Hope the above made sense. Metra Electronics | Products

Invaluable notes thank you very much! Another reason to go DSP and all active channels I suppose.....

 

[Jaymanire]

@AZCoyote - I am relatively new to this car audio stuff. Could you please confirm the list of things I need to purchase to install the kicker key 200.4 in bi amp mode along w/ new subwoofer. This is what I have so far. What am I missing?

kicker key 200.4
kicker 500.1 amp
2 4” tweeter speakers (or should this be 2-way speakers too??) (for dash)
2 4” 2-way speakers (for existing pods)
2 6.5” mid-bass component speakers (for kick panels)
8” subwoofer
PnP 200.4 harness (understand I will need to modified)
L7T subwoofer enclosure (if replacing with L7T)
Cloth electrical tape
Sound deadening mat
Other wiring or connectors, I know I’m missing stuff???

Please recommend specific speakers for each location and your reasoning. Actual links would be awesome.

With respect to the subwoofer, I want to use the factory location. I was going to replace the factory sub with 8” Kicker CompRT, but now I’m looking at Kicker L7T, though I don’t really understand the advantage of one over the other.

 

[AZCoyote]

@AZCoyote - I am relatively new to this car audio stuff. Could you please confirm the list of things I need to purchase to install the kicker key 200.4 in bi amp mode along w/ new subwoofer. This is what I have so far. What am I missing?

kicker key 200.4
kicker 500.1 amp
2 4” tweeter speakers (or should this be 2-way speakers too??) (for dash)
2 4” 2-way speakers (for existing pods)
2 6.5” mid-bass component speakers (for kick panels)
8” subwoofer
PnP 200.4 harness (understand I will need to modified)
L7T subwoofer enclosure (if replacing with L7T)
Cloth electrical tape
Sound deadening mat
Other wiring or connectors, I know I’m missing stuff???

Please recommend specific speakers for each location and your reasoning. Actual links would be awesome.

With respect to the subwoofer, I want to use the factory location. I was going to replace the factory sub with 8” Kicker CompRT, but now I’m looking at Kicker L7T, though I don’t really understand the advantage of one over the other.

Sure. I like the Alpine 4” coaxial HiRes for dash and pods. I used Memphis MP6 in the kicks. They should be noted early in the thread. Crutchfield is a good source.

speaker wire for the kick panels and sub. Power and ground wire for the 200 and 500. Wire crimps.

 

[agir]

Additive Car Audio
https://additivecaraudio.com/product-category/bronco6g/

The discount code BRONCO6G works too

Is this enclosure 3D-printed?

And where do you have it installed. I can't tell from the picture.

 

[AZCoyote]

Is this enclosure 3D-printed?

And where do you have it installed. I can't tell from the picture.

It is 3d printed. It replaces the factory enclosure in the back right behind the plastic panel.

 

[agir]

Oh, I don't have a factory enclosure. I assume that comes with the B&O.

So then I could make one myself.

 

[AZCoyote]

Oh, I don't have a factory enclosure. I assume that comes with the B&O.

So then I could make one myself.

B&O is the upscale version. The 7 speaker standard system also has a little subwoofer. You certainly could if you have the skills! I toyed around with the idea of several solutions. In a 2DR, this kept the most space for me in the back. Bass is very good for a system that looks stock.

 

[agir]

I have the 3D printer. It can't be rocket science. Just time and a lot of cursing. ;-)

 

[Brian_B]

I have the 3D printer. It can't be rocket science. Just time and a lot of cursing. ;-)

If you had the STL file sure. Or maybe a scanner to create one. It’s a fairly big print though

 

[Jaymanire]

Here are the speaker rings if anyone was not sure what they look like.

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but what is this for? Soundproofing behind the new kicks? If so, I already installed killmat, sound barrier and polyfill. I assume that is sufficient. Thanks.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but what is this for? Soundproofing behind the new kicks? If so, I already installed killmat, sound barrier and polyfill. I assume that is sufficient. Thanks.

Yes

 

[Brian_B]

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but what is this for? Soundproofing behind the new kicks? If so, I already installed killmat, sound barrier and polyfill. I assume that is sufficient. Thanks.

Depends on what you are after really.

For most people, yeah, what you have done is reasonable and will sound good. (or at least, about as good as it gets)

If you want the mythical "midbass" response curve and want it to look flat - likely you haven't gone nearly far enough.

 

[Jaymanire]

@AZCoyote, I finally completed the install of both kicker amps in my wife’s Bronco following your instructions and recommended speakers. Wow! What a difference. Sounds better than the B&O system in my Bronco. Guess I have to upgrade mine now.

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