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What are you comparing? So far I can’t find enough information about sway away to do that.

I would hope that these are valve specifically for the bronco application. They appear to have the same levels of adjustability as all the other majors. I’ll send them a message and see what they say.

I saw that about Betts. They only acquired the swaybar portion of the business. AFE still has the coil overs.

Very nice looking gear for sure. Green isn’t my jam but the tech in the shocks looks great. Maybe they will offer other colors at some point.

Found this video so far.

Thanks F-Spot. I suspect they’ve had lots of use on desert trucks. I haven’t found any user specific information anywhere about their new bronco offering. It looks pretty good on paper though. Here’s a little bit more about their pedigree...

I have also heard great things about Accutune. There are a lot of ways to skin this cat. So far they aren’t the product that I’m looking for. If I find the right info, the Sway-A-Way might be. Shall see.

Definitely trying that. So far, no info out there I can find. That’s the entire reason I posted here, hoping that we might have members who have tried these new coils. You never know. I might be the one who takes the first shot.

I only use Tidal now because of that.

Is anyone running the coilovers yet? I have not been able to find any posts with these. They look like what I am looking for but definitely hoping someone has some experience to share with the. https://afepower.com/afe-power-301-5600-17-ca-sway-a-way-2-5-front-coilover-kit...

No. I have noticed a difference between wired and Bluetooth. I always use wired now. You could double check no loose power or ground but that seems unusual.

That is awesome! It’s DOES feel good to get these things done on your own. Saved money for other mods too!! I agree about the volume levels. Closed window I have a very high quality and loud soundstage. Windows down at 45 mph I can still jam out. Highway speeds forget about but I don’t really...

In theory you could change the rear pod EQ to full range and those 6.5 may give more volume. But with head unit power I’m not sure it will be hugely different. I personally like just enough from the pods for fill.

Mounted right below the steering wheel on the little panel that is so popular. Works great. I think there are some B&O specific threads you can check first. Speakers alone usually only help and little.

Have you modified your harness at all? I disconnected my stock wires at kick and taped them up. I still get sound to dash. I disconnect everything except the front floor speakers. Troubleshoot that. Then connect up the sub and go from there.

i used the old wires to the dash and ran new wires to the kick panels. The 200 handles all that. My amps are on separate power wires so removing the fuse for sub handles that. Balance should be full front when doing auto EQ and DSP setup.

Awesome. Be sure to note post #101. You want a remote power wire from the 200 to the 500. It’s the only dependable way to turn on/off. Without it there are thumps and late signal detections.

i don’t know the kit 19-1 part but you only need a single input pair to the Key 200.4 to run bi-amp. It splits the signal internally to feed both AMP1 and AMP2. If your 19-1 part has a sub line, it will still go to your sub amp. All good there. The front pair off your part should feed the Key...

Turned off factory EQ I believe. I have stock rear pods so left those as it. I set position off in head unit. Still loving the outcome too.

except for bi-amp and time delay right? the timing correction is great. HU has to have its turned off of course. sounds like you just need to play with the gains a little bit