Mounted right below the steering wheel on the little panel that is so popular. Works great.
I think there are some B&O specific threads you can check first. Speakers alone usually only help and little.
Have you modified your harness at all?
I disconnected my stock wires at kick and taped them up. I still get sound to dash.
I disconnect everything except the front floor speakers. Troubleshoot that. Then connect up the sub and go from there.
i used the old wires to the dash and ran new wires to the kick panels. The 200 handles all that. My amps are on separate power wires so removing the fuse for sub handles that. Balance should be full front when doing auto EQ and DSP setup.
Awesome. Be sure to note post #101. You want a remote power wire from the 200 to the 500. It’s the only dependable way to turn on/off. Without it there are thumps and late signal detections.
i don’t know the kit 19-1 part but you only need a single input pair to the Key 200.4 to run bi-amp. It splits the signal internally to feed both AMP1 and AMP2. If your 19-1 part has a sub line, it will still go to your sub amp. All good there. The front pair off your part should feed the Key...
except for bi-amp and time delay right?
the timing correction is great. HU has to have its turned off of course.
sounds like you just need to play with the gains a little bit
CORRECTION. Page 7 post 99.
that looks like the correct place. Mine was a little hacky but you will get the idea.
kicker EQ doesn’t have to be turned off. Totally preferential. It adds highs and lows. Classic smiley face on a graphic EQ if you remember those. Turning off may sound good...
Also, run your DSP with a cable attached to phone and Bluetooth off. You want uncompressed highest resolution source files. May help with sad sound failures.
https://www.kicker.com/test-tones
Ok. Do you have just tweeters in dash or do you mean the tweets on coaxials? Try turning off the dip switch for kicker EQ first. I believe it adds some highs and that may be your offending harshness. You may also want to DSP train with it off if that doesn’t remove enough highs. HU eqshould...
I have Alpine coax in the dash. Memphis midbass in the kick. No outboard crossovers, the coax has a bass cap but it doesn’t factor.
They clearly don’t understand how bi-amp works. Make sure you listen to a lot of reference material before. Then critical listen after. You will be able to...
Very nice!!!
The Key 200 and 500 should both use dedicated fused power direct to the battery. And use the remote send from the 200 to tell the 500 when to turn on/off. Auto detect on the 500 was not good for me. Wired to the 200 is great.
Haven’t seen one yet. Current producers of “plug and play” harnesses for the kicker seem indifferent to the fact they are running the amps out of spec. The posts about failed Key 200s on the internet are easily attributable to the 2 ohm load they inflict on the amp. Their janky config works...
That said, your coax in the kicks are not ideal. You are not going to use the tweeter at all in the configuration. It won’t hurt anything. Just don’t expect to hear those tweeters at all. 640 down to 80 is a tight frequency range. But the bi-amp mode gets the best out of the dash and kick...
Grok is not all knowing. Back to page 12.
There are two ways to use bi-amp. the key auto detects and uses the correct crossover points. It will know you have dash coax and kickpanel mids.
the issue of not using passive crossover isn’t about the bass cap filtering on your coaxial tweeter. It...
you should probably find a new shop. The people you’re talking to are too fucking stupid to do car audio well. If you choose to stay with them, tell them RTFM page 9 and page 12.
The amp will use internal crossovers to send the front channels 320 hz and up. Perfect for our little midranges...
I have no idea what any of that means!! I’m a simple guy who just misses the soft burble of a 351 or a 289. I accept my quiet little 4 banger. Don’t mean I like!