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Kicker Key 200.4 Done Correctly

DefNotBuddyLee

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Raise the gains until they clip. Then lower until the light is off. Then you can switch to music. Best method is NOT to raise gains after doing the pink noise step. Play some dynamic music (HU still at 24) and check for clipping. Lower the gain if there is clipping. Leave it alone if there is none.
I have had the Kicker Key setup with Plug n Play harness for some time. Your post has me questioning something. I did the DSP setup with the white noise provided by Kicker. However, if I raise the gain on the amp to the level of clipping and then reduce under per instructions on the Kicker Key, the startup chimes and backup alerts are WAY too loud...and I have tinnitus. Because of that, I end up running the gain way lower than the clipping level (still chimes loud, but I run it at a level that my wife will still get in the Bronco and only make a small frowny face). Still gives me a better sound profile and more power, but this thread has me wondering what you are doing to address, or if you are just living with it. Maybe I need to setup with HU at higher level like you (24)? I typically run setup at volume 15 as I thought the Kicker instructions were to run DSP to "a level above conversational (slightly loud)".
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Well, amazing I haven't discovered this thread until now. I'll have to put this onto next summer's to do list. I definitely still want to add a subwoofer and bi-amping the front seems like a brilliant path to really improve things. Running wires to the tweeters doesn't seem like a huge lift to me.

I have the first iteration of the plugnplaykits harness (doesn't have the power lead to run to the battery). I would definitely like to add a subwoofer, I just haven't had the gumption to diassemble my cargo area and we're already into camping season.

Personally I'd be willing to grab another harness that's ready to rock for this pattern, but it also doesn't look like changing things is too difficult.
 

drewski

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I have had the Kicker Key setup with Plug n Play harness for some time. Your post has me questioning something. I did the DSP setup with the white noise provided by Kicker. However, if I raise the gain on the amp to the level of clipping and then reduce under per instructions on the Kicker Key, the startup chimes and backup alerts are WAY too loud...and I have tinnitus. Because of that, I end up running the gain way lower than the clipping level (still chimes loud, but I run it at a level that my wife will still get in the Bronco and only make a small frowny face). Still gives me a better sound profile and more power, but this thread has me wondering what you are doing to address, or if you are just living with it. Maybe I need to setup with HU at higher level like you (24)? I typically run setup at volume 15 as I thought the Kicker instructions were to run DSP to "a level above conversational (slightly loud)".

Forscan change chimes from speakers to dash only. There is another way without using forscan but I cannot find that post. (6) Every chime is louder after amp & speaker install | Page 2 | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community
 
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AZCoyote

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I have had the Kicker Key setup with Plug n Play harness for some time. Your post has me questioning something. I did the DSP setup with the white noise provided by Kicker. However, if I raise the gain on the amp to the level of clipping and then reduce under per instructions on the Kicker Key, the startup chimes and backup alerts are WAY too loud...and I have tinnitus. Because of that, I end up running the gain way lower than the clipping level (still chimes loud, but I run it at a level that my wife will still get in the Bronco and only make a small frowny face). Still gives me a better sound profile and more power, but this thread has me wondering what you are doing to address, or if you are just living with it. Maybe I need to setup with HU at higher level like you (24)? I typically run setup at volume 15 as I thought the Kicker instructions were to run DSP to "a level above conversational (slightly loud)".
I use Forscan to set the chimes to only use the cluster speaker. I had the same problem. Easy change resolved it entirely. Turn off the fake exhaust sounds while you are in there and you will get more perceived performance from the stereo as well.
 
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AZCoyote

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Well, amazing I haven't discovered this thread until now. I'll have to put this onto next summer's to do list. I definitely still want to add a subwoofer and bi-amping the front seems like a brilliant path to really improve things. Running wires to the tweeters doesn't seem like a huge lift to me.

I have the first iteration of the plugnplaykits harness (doesn't have the power lead to run to the battery). I would definitely like to add a subwoofer, I just haven't had the gumption to diassemble my cargo area and we're already into camping season.

Personally I'd be willing to grab another harness that's ready to rock for this pattern, but it also doesn't look like changing things is too difficult.
I have not seen a PNP configured for bi-amp but some manufacturers would make money if they made one. Call it an enhanced version that is “mostly” plug and play.
 

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AZCoyote

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I have not seen a PNP configured for bi-amp but some manufacturers would make money if they made one. Call it an enhanced version that is “mostly” plug and play.
I think what I will probably do is re-order the newer version of the PnP harness, and modify it prior to install and then bang out the tweeter runs and the positive lead to the battery in one pass. Thanks again, I'll circle back to take more notes once I have that harness in hand.

At least, this is how I've understood what's being described here:

Ford Bronco Kicker Key 200.4 Done Correctly ss- 2025-10-25 at 2.39.49 PM
 
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AZCoyote

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I think what I will probably do is re-order the newer version of the PnP harness, and modify it prior to install and then bang out the tweeter runs and the positive lead to the battery in one pass. Thanks again, I'll circle back to take more notes once I have that harness in hand.

At least, this is how I've understood what's being described here:

ss- 2025-10-25 at 2.39.49 PM.webp
what is the newer version? Is it to deal with A2B stuff on newer radios?

Second image is incorrect I think. Dash and Kicks are attached to the Key.
 
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AZCoyote

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Here is some follow up observations and results.

Cranked while parked, this setup is a delight. It is loud enough to make conversation difficult. Bass delivers and the balance is great. The DSP does a great job in both Kicker units. Ease of setup and install are huge points for this build. Price is also great considering the whole system with speakers cost what a single high brand DSP amp costs.

While driving, the sound is also still great with windows up until about 50 mph when road noise becomes noticeable. Haven’t tried top off so that’s obviously even more noise to contend with. Even then it is very good and loud and enjoyable. Windows down at 50 and up and it’s going to fall behind but that loud wind noise to contend with. Adding more sound deadening is my next project. That can gain about 3 db back and that is noticeable.

I said that to say this. This is a massive improvement over stock, reasonably priced, easy to install and configure, and completely hidden system. You cannot go wrong with this unless being a rolling concert with the top down is your goal. That requires more watts and speakers and money and work.
 

JediMcMuffin

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what is the newer version? Is it to deal with A2B stuff on newer radios?

Second image is incorrect I think. Dash and Kicks are attached to the Key.
The dashed lines represent what is powered by the kicker. The T harness is used to reuse the wiring you to the kick panels.
 

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AZCoyote

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OK. The kicks get entirely new wiring and the dash uses what was wired to both dash and kicks.
 
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AZCoyote

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23OBX2.7

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I used the 200.4 for six weeks until it broke down had poor warranty service so got Audison 8 channels DSP....no comparison at all it's next level in function outcome and price haha.
 
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AZCoyote

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I used the 200.4 for six weeks until it broke down had poor warranty service so got Audison 8 channels DSP....no comparison at all it's next level in function outcome and price haha.
Can’t deny an Audison is a better amp. Way more work to configure and more pricey. Undeniably better in all other ways. I’d personally like a 12 channel Audison but I just don’t need it. Not that need really always factors into my decision making. Can’t speak to the warranty issue other than I’ve heard your experience but also others who had good results with Kicker.

I will say that if you were using a T harness that is Plug and Play, it’s no surprise the amp died. That pesky 2 ohm issue I keep harping about is gonna kill amps. And my purpose here is just helping people to stop murdering these Key amps with an inappropriate Plug and Play implementation and to get the maximum value and performance from them.

I’d advocate a Musway or Audison all day if people have money and time to spend on them.
 

Ninjaroz

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So I just tried this and looking for some advice. I have a key key 200.4 and 500.1. Created my own harness per another thread and running in bi amp mode. Having some weird problems with the kicker key 200.4. First it sounds pixelated unless I change balance all the way to left or right and my bass is completely gone subwoofer has power but silent. I ran the auto tune successfully. Also phone calls and navigation volume is very low. This is alot and missing alot of details that would probably help diagnose. Just not sure where even to start. TIA!
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