Kicker Key 200.4 Done Correctly

[orion]

Assuming you mean you are now wired with amp 1 to dash and amp 2 to kicks. Did you set the dip switch for bi-amp mode? That enables crossovers.

I use volume at 24 since I think that is closer to when the HU starts to distort. With gains all the way down use the Lab Grade Pink noise WAV file from kicker.

https://www.kicker.com/key2004-testtones

Raise the gains until they clip. Then lower until the light is off. Then you can switch to music. Best method is NOT to raise gains after doing the pink noise step. Play some dynamic music (HU still at 24) and check for clipping. Lower the gain if there is clipping. Leave it alone if there is none.

This assumes you did the DSP first which is what you should do with the gains all the way down. Dip switch settings as mentioned on page 1. Btw I had another pass at the manual and EQ dip turns on a bump the Kicker people like so you may like it off. Delay is supposed to correct for HU doing time alignment. You may not need that. You can turn the HU setting to not favor any seat (all seat I think it says) or use Forscan as mentioned before. Just make sure DSP is done before setting gain.

I can wholeheartedly recommend the one I linked above. It’s is fantastic for a hidden solution. Just about $800 delivered for 500 watt amp, box, sub, and bass control knob. I am very content with it. I sent my 3 college age kids to the store today and they came back all smiles.

Yep, all was done the way you said except for doing gains with pink noise. Thanks for all your help and contribution to this forum!

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[drewski]

I am working on the modification right now and my harness does not follows exactly the color diagram in the manual. See the purple of right rear is paired with black. That is fine. But then I have a question about which line is the positive output? Upper ones (black in this pair) or lower (purple)? My guess is purple, but. I want to confirm. Thanks.

I have the same harness. If you haven't found your answer, purple is + right, black is - right and green is + left, brown is - left.

 

[DefNotBuddyLee]

Raise the gains until they clip. Then lower until the light is off. Then you can switch to music. Best method is NOT to raise gains after doing the pink noise step. Play some dynamic music (HU still at 24) and check for clipping. Lower the gain if there is clipping. Leave it alone if there is none.

I have had the Kicker Key setup with Plug n Play harness for some time. Your post has me questioning something. I did the DSP setup with the white noise provided by Kicker. However, if I raise the gain on the amp to the level of clipping and then reduce under per instructions on the Kicker Key, the startup chimes and backup alerts are WAY too loud...and I have tinnitus. Because of that, I end up running the gain way lower than the clipping level (still chimes loud, but I run it at a level that my wife will still get in the Bronco and only make a small frowny face). Still gives me a better sound profile and more power, but this thread has me wondering what you are doing to address, or if you are just living with it. Maybe I need to setup with HU at higher level like you (24)? I typically run setup at volume 15 as I thought the Kicker instructions were to run DSP to "a level above conversational (slightly loud)".

 

[JediMcMuffin]

Well, amazing I haven't discovered this thread until now. I'll have to put this onto next summer's to do list. I definitely still want to add a subwoofer and bi-amping the front seems like a brilliant path to really improve things. Running wires to the tweeters doesn't seem like a huge lift to me.

I have the first iteration of the plugnplaykits harness (doesn't have the power lead to run to the battery). I would definitely like to add a subwoofer, I just haven't had the gumption to diassemble my cargo area and we're already into camping season.

Personally I'd be willing to grab another harness that's ready to rock for this pattern, but it also doesn't look like changing things is too difficult.

 

[drewski]

I have had the Kicker Key setup with Plug n Play harness for some time. Your post has me questioning something. I did the DSP setup with the white noise provided by Kicker. However, if I raise the gain on the amp to the level of clipping and then reduce under per instructions on the Kicker Key, the startup chimes and backup alerts are WAY too loud...and I have tinnitus. Because of that, I end up running the gain way lower than the clipping level (still chimes loud, but I run it at a level that my wife will still get in the Bronco and only make a small frowny face). Still gives me a better sound profile and more power, but this thread has me wondering what you are doing to address, or if you are just living with it. Maybe I need to setup with HU at higher level like you (24)? I typically run setup at volume 15 as I thought the Kicker instructions were to run DSP to "a level above conversational (slightly loud)".

Forscan change chimes from speakers to dash only. There is another way without using forscan but I cannot find that post. (6) Every chime is louder after amp & speaker install | Page 2 | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

 

[AZCoyote]

I have had the Kicker Key setup with Plug n Play harness for some time. Your post has me questioning something. I did the DSP setup with the white noise provided by Kicker. However, if I raise the gain on the amp to the level of clipping and then reduce under per instructions on the Kicker Key, the startup chimes and backup alerts are WAY too loud...and I have tinnitus. Because of that, I end up running the gain way lower than the clipping level (still chimes loud, but I run it at a level that my wife will still get in the Bronco and only make a small frowny face). Still gives me a better sound profile and more power, but this thread has me wondering what you are doing to address, or if you are just living with it. Maybe I need to setup with HU at higher level like you (24)? I typically run setup at volume 15 as I thought the Kicker instructions were to run DSP to "a level above conversational (slightly loud)".

I use Forscan to set the chimes to only use the cluster speaker. I had the same problem. Easy change resolved it entirely. Turn off the fake exhaust sounds while you are in there and you will get more perceived performance from the stereo as well.

 

[AZCoyote]

Well, amazing I haven't discovered this thread until now. I'll have to put this onto next summer's to do list. I definitely still want to add a subwoofer and bi-amping the front seems like a brilliant path to really improve things. Running wires to the tweeters doesn't seem like a huge lift to me.

I have the first iteration of the plugnplaykits harness (doesn't have the power lead to run to the battery). I would definitely like to add a subwoofer, I just haven't had the gumption to diassemble my cargo area and we're already into camping season.

Personally I'd be willing to grab another harness that's ready to rock for this pattern, but it also doesn't look like changing things is too difficult.

I have not seen a PNP configured for bi-amp but some manufacturers would make money if they made one. Call it an enhanced version that is “mostly” plug and play.

 

[AZCoyote]

Forscan change chimes from speakers to dash only. There is another way without using forscan but I cannot find that post. (6) Every chime is louder after amp & speaker install | Page 2 | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

Just for clarity… the speaker is actually in the instrument cluster. Anything passing through the stereo would be blasting loud.

 

[JediMcMuffin]

I have not seen a PNP configured for bi-amp but some manufacturers would make money if they made one. Call it an enhanced version that is “mostly” plug and play.

I think what I will probably do is re-order the newer version of the PnP harness, and modify it prior to install and then bang out the tweeter runs and the positive lead to the battery in one pass. Thanks again, I'll circle back to take more notes once I have that harness in hand.

At least, this is how I've understood what's being described here:

 

[AZCoyote]

I think what I will probably do is re-order the newer version of the PnP harness, and modify it prior to install and then bang out the tweeter runs and the positive lead to the battery in one pass. Thanks again, I'll circle back to take more notes once I have that harness in hand.

At least, this is how I've understood what's being described here:

what is the newer version? Is it to deal with A2B stuff on newer radios?

Second image is incorrect I think. Dash and Kicks are attached to the Key.

 

[AZCoyote]

Here is some follow up observations and results.

Cranked while parked, this setup is a delight. It is loud enough to make conversation difficult. Bass delivers and the balance is great. The DSP does a great job in both Kicker units. Ease of setup and install are huge points for this build. Price is also great considering the whole system with speakers cost what a single high brand DSP amp costs.

While driving, the sound is also still great with windows up until about 50 mph when road noise becomes noticeable. Haven’t tried top off so that’s obviously even more noise to contend with. Even then it is very good and loud and enjoyable. Windows down at 50 and up and it’s going to fall behind but that loud wind noise to contend with. Adding more sound deadening is my next project. That can gain about 3 db back and that is noticeable.

I said that to say this. This is a massive improvement over stock, reasonably priced, easy to install and configure, and completely hidden system. You cannot go wrong with this unless being a rolling concert with the top down is your goal. That requires more watts and speakers and money and work.

 

[JediMcMuffin]

what is the newer version? Is it to deal with A2B stuff on newer radios?

Second image is incorrect I think. Dash and Kicks are attached to the Key.

The dashed lines represent what is powered by the kicker. The T harness is used to reuse the wiring you to the kick panels.

 

[AZCoyote]

OK. The kicks get entirely new wiring and the dash uses what was wired to both dash and kicks.

 

[AZCoyote]

Just came across something that may get me in trouble. Not sure I like the look but that many speakers will bring the “concert on wheels” to anyone who has enough amp to drive them. That would take me full circle to a 12 channel dsp amp.

https://customspeakerpods.com/product-category/vehicle-select/ford/bronco/2021-2023-bronco/

 

[23OBX2.7]

I used the 200.4 for six weeks until it broke down had poor warranty service so got Audison 8 channels DSP....no comparison at all it's next level in function outcome and price haha.

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