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Powering Winch with AUX + Relay / Isolator

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redone17

redone17

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No such thing as overkill

Fuse the wire not the load - so it passes the primary law of electrical
Electrical law is always been difficult for me to grasp. I’m learning though. Built out my entire boat with two electrical motors, two types of batteries, lights, pump, etc. So, I’m getting there.

Are you saying that my choice of 15a fuse is sufficient or that I should go to 20a on 12 gauge wire?
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A 10 amp fuse should bejust fine for the remote wire for the solenoid.
 

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Electrical law is always been difficult for me to grasp. I’m learning though. Built out my entire boat with two electrical motors, two types of batteries, lights, pump, etc. So, I’m getting there.

Are you saying that my choice of 15a fuse is sufficient or that I should go to 20a on 12 gauge wire?
Your fine. It’s small enough to protect the wire, and it’s big enough the load should never blow it unless something goes wrong

If you get it all cleaned up the way you like, I’d not fool with changing it out later on
 

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(assuming fuse should be as close to solenoid as possible)
A fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. It's there to protect the wiring.
 

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@Brian_B & @Sloth - what size fuse did you use for the wire between the switch and the Stinger (assuming fuse should be as close to solenoid as possible)? Did you ground to the battery or body?
Im running the solenoid through upfitter switch #5. So whatever that switch is rated for…

I have the ground run to the body.
 

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Im running the solenoid through upfitter switch #5. So whatever that switch is rated for…

I have the ground run to the body.
Oh duh. I’m really overthinking this. I added an inline fuse. But, that’s not needed if using the OEM AUX switches…
 

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Why does WARN recommend wiring directly to the battery? Simple. HIGH AMP DRAW.

Less connections the better. Add a battery disconnect if really concerned.

These complicated systems with numerous connections present their own issues. And much higher likelihood that your winch won't work when you need it. Then you've been hauling around a 100-200lb winch/bumper setup for nothing.

I've run winches directly to the battery for nearly 20 years on a dozen vehicles. Never had an issue. And winch always worked when needed.

Don't overthink or make something have additional failure points. Keep it simple
 

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Speaking for my own setup… it would be easy enough to bypass the solenoid directly to the battery if I had an issue. Meanwhile, the setup gives an extra layer of safety with the flip of a switch.
 
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Why does WARN recommend wiring directly to the battery? Simple. HIGH AMP DRAW.

Less connections the better. Add a battery disconnect if really concerned.

These complicated systems with numerous connections present their own issues. And much higher likelihood that your winch won't work when you need it. Then you've been hauling around a 100-200lb winch/bumper setup for nothing.

I've run winches directly to the battery for nearly 20 years on a dozen vehicles. Never had an issue. And winch always worked when needed.

Don't overthink or make something have additional failure points. Keep it simple
Thing is, if the safety mechanism fails - you just unbolt it and run it directly.

Speaking for my own setup… it would be easy enough to bypass the solenoid directly to the battery if I had an issue. Meanwhile, the setup gives an extra layer of safety with the flip of a switch.
Exactly. I’d rather a deer or otherwise not cause me to lose my truck.
 

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I have never heard of a fused starter….about the same amps…just saying…that said I did put a 500 amp fuse (easy to bypass) on my winch cable just because of you “Nannies”…🤪😜🤣
 

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I have never heard of a fused starter
A few reasons for that

The wire to the starter is usually not too exposed and a fairly short run from solenoid

It’s also usually only energized for a few seconds. And only while you are holding the key turned (or the computer does its thing) - so if there is a fault the duration is short and damage hopefully limited

And finally - because some bean counter figured out they can save $0.89 by eliminating the fuse, holder, and connectors and most people would never be affected
 

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We are talking about the wire to turn the solenoid on and off, not the main wire for the winch.
I looked at the specifications for the one im using and the amp draw on that wire to turn the solenoid on and off is less than 1/2 an amp at 12 volts.
Mine is connected to switch 6 on my aftermarket switch panel.
 

Oldhippie

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Come to think of it I do have a keyed battery switch (battery positive cable) on my model A…but that is more a thief thing then a safety thing…
 

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There's also the question of why you want to turn off the power. You should talk to people who have winches and who also use them for their opinion. The switch, and fuse, makes sense for a rear mounted winch. I haven't seen many front mounted winches with switches or fuses.
Mousies can gain a hunger for wiring insulation too! Would suck to have that sucker randomly ground out when no where around the vehicle. At least with the relay you might be able to catch it!

Why a stinger/relay instead of a switch? No great reason here — a manual turn switch would work fine too, but I didn’t find the stinger to be priced badly in comparison. Don’t have to use an aux switch, could mount a flip switch under the hood or out by the winch just as easily really.
I initially had a big isolator switch rather than a relay. Mounted it cleanly under the hood. Was awesome up until needing it and the hood was 6’ in the air 😂

Ford Bronco Powering Winch with AUX + Relay / Isolator IMG_3517
 

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Mousies can gain a hunger for wiring insulation too! Would suck to have that sucker randomly ground out when no where around the vehicle. At least with the relay you might be able to catch it!



I initially had a big isolator switch rather than a relay. Mounted it cleanly under the hood. Was awesome up until needing it and the hood was 6’ in the air 😂

IMG_3517.webp
Maybe you should include a ladder in your recovery gear.
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