Powering Winch with AUX + Relay / Isolator

[redone17]

I’m taking the time to do things on my 2025 the way I wished I’d done them the first time on my 2021. I’ve learned a lot from others on here or otherwise but electrical has never been my strong suit. I’ve made some strides the past couple of years. So, this is one I’m excited to tackle.

I’d like to use a Stinger SGP35 500-AMP to connect AUX 1 to my 12k Winch.

https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP35-500-AMP-Relay-Isolator/dp/B004WDPZEW

Are there better options?

I’m pretty certain there are others that have taken this approach on here. I just want to make sure I have the wiring and components correct. Which gauge wiring and fuses in each location is my biggest question at the moment? Otherwise I’m pretty confident on setting this up.

Is this the diagram I should follow?

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[Sloth]

I used the Stinger solenoid without the additional inline fuse to the battery. Curious to know if others are fusing that connection. I used the same heavy wire from the winch to the solenoid to the battery. I think I used 12g to wire the solenoid itself.

 

[Sloth]

Heres a good thread on wiring the winch with a relay…

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/switch-or-solenoid-for-winch.89850/#post-2239054

 

[redone17]

Heres a good thread on wiring the winch with a relay…

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/switch-or-solenoid-for-winch.89850/#post-2239054

Thanks! I couldn’t find that.

I guess @Administrator could kill this thread if they’d like.

I kept searching “winch relay” and “winch isolator”

 

[CalvinT]

Are there better options?

Why use an aux switch? You have to get out to use the winch controls anyway. There are manual battery disconnect switches that can handle winch current.

Also why switch 1? You don't need to use it to control a relay. Sw 3-6 would work just as well.

 

[Oilbrnr]

^ x2

Why?

 

[redone17]

Why use an aux switch? You have to get out anyway and use the winch controls anyway. There are manual battery disconnect switches that can handle winch current.

Also why switch 1? You don't need to use it to control a relay. Sw 3-6 would work just as well.

After digging into that other thread I realized AUX 1 would be overkill. Again, I’m pretty novice when it comes to electrical. I’m starting to understand how this all works.

I’d like to be able to turn on and off the power from the driver seat. Seems safer to me than having to open the hood. I had it that way for 4 years. Sometimes I forgot to turn the power off too. AUX that won’t happen.

Plus, I opened up an AUX by being able to use the factory fog switch to power my SAE Squadrons.

 

[CalvinT]

There's also the question of why you want to turn off the power. You should talk to people who have winches and who also use them for their opinion. The switch, and fuse, makes sense for a rear mounted winch. I haven't seen many front mounted winches with switches or fuses.

I think I'd run the power to the winch through some sort of ribbed conduit to protect the insulation from abrasion and forget the fuse.

DelCity is a good source for connectors and solenoids. Not so good for ribbed conduit. They only sell 100 foot rolls.

https://www.delcity.net/store/relays-power-distribution/solenoid-switches/

 

[Oilbrnr]

Dunno. Every winch I've used is hot all the time, and you use a removable hand held corded controller. Are you talking about powering off a RF controller instead?

 

[Hammerli22]

Warn puts out a winch isolator kit that has a solenoid. It's only rated for intermittent usage, and I don't think it's rated for 500 amps. I've seen people on YouTube use this.
Is this good enough?

https://www.warn.com/power-interrupt-kit-62132

 

[Brian_B]

I do not run a fuse for my front mounted winch. But if I had a rear mounted I would fuse it.

But I do use a stinger on mine.

First reason is, with the stinger off most of the time - the non-fused portion of wire that stays energized full time is very short and not exposed.

Second is I have had a winch on a tractor for a while, and when you bump into a tree (or deer) and the bumper cuts into your winch wire … fireworks, if it’s energized. After I did that once I switched my tractor winch, and did it from jump on the Bronco.

Third would be vandalism. I’ve never seen it, but I can imagine it. Try as I might I don’t have a fully tucked install and there is some wiring exposed. If someone wanted to be a douche with a pocket knife… well - they would still be a douche but at least I would still have a working battery and could drive home.

Why a stinger/relay instead of a switch? No great reason here — a manual turn switch would work fine too, but I didn’t find the stinger to be priced badly in comparison. Don’t have to use an aux switch, could mount a flip switch under the hood or out by the winch just as easily really.

I wouldn’t want a disconnect plug though to use as a long term disconnect unless my winch were built to be removable — too much dirt and junk builds up if you don’t keep them capped off, and you have to have a lead long enough to be able to plug/unplug, so that has to be secured… and if you don’t get it fully plugged in or it’s too dirty - high resistance will get hot and may melt/catch fire.

As far as ratings - I don’t have a ton of time on this, but it’s done a dozen or so pulls. It’s a 500A rated switch but I haven’t ever seen it get warm so I’m not too worried about it. I never pull for long runs (<30sec) anyway unless it’s no load just respooling or something.

Finally, only somewhat related - I wouldn’t worry about the ratings on the OEM aux switches. All of them will drive a relay just fine… so put stuff where you want it

 

[redone17]

Great info @Brian_B - thanks.

While, I want to do this right and need to research more and build/design what this will look like under the hood (relocate control box?).

For safety reasons I’d like to drop in a $30 BlueSea switch for the time being. But. The 6006 is only rated for 300a. Is there a better option?

 

[Hammerli22]

Bluesea 3000 series rated 600a

 

[HighVelocity]

There's also the question of why you want to turn off the power.

I prefer to no have any active current to the winch in the event of a frontal collision.

When I was working in the logging industry, one of our guys was in a wreck that ripped the front winch off the company F550. After everything was cleaned up, the first responders thanked us for not having constant power to it.

I used the solenoid linked above wired to AUX1 for mine just because I'm not running anything else needing high current and most my others were taken.

I've never fused between the solenoid and winch. You're not typically running the winch long enough to produce enough heat to melt 2/0 cable, plus I don't want a fuse to blow in the middle of a recovery. However, in my personal F550 I did run a circuit beaker to both winches (front and rear). I did some ridiculous pulling with those winches and never tripped the breaker.

Another option to cut power is a battery disconnect switch rather than a relay wired to an upfitter.

 

[615_Bronco]

Warn puts out a winch isolator kit that has a solenoid. It's only rated for intermittent usage, and I don't think it's rated for 500 amps. I've seen people on YouTube use this.
Is this good enough?

https://www.warn.com/power-interrupt-kit-62132

Well I learned something new today
I have this and used it more than intermittently

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