Midbass from kickpanel speakers

[PearlJamFanLV]

Would these help with the 6.5 kick panel speakers with the Kicker 6.5"?
https://a.co/d/4ChJzBi

Or these https://a.co/d/9m86yC2

I feel I am missing some mid-bass. I did whole conversion with the 8" sub, the rear 6.5 in pods, dash, and kick panel speaker with the 200.4 and 500.1.

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[Brian_B]

Would these help with the 6.5 kick panel speakers with the Kicker 6.5"?
https://a.co/d/4ChJzBi

I feel I am missing some mid-bass. I did whole conversion with the 8" sub, the rear 6.5 in pods, dash, and kick panel speaker with the 200.4 and 500.1.

Good question! Id like to hear if these make a difference - price isn’t bad but don’t want to go tearing into it all again if it doesn’t really do any good

 

[PearlJamFanLV]

Good question! Id like to hear if these make a difference - price isn’t bad but don’t want to go tearing into it all again if it doesn’t really do any good

There are also these ones, https://a.co/d/9m86yC2 , they may help with keeping the water out if that where to ever happen.

 

[heathw101]

I would say no to the first option and maybe to the second. The biggest issue is the location and enclosure for the Bronco mid bass speakers. I can tell you that on an RTA my mids drop off sharply after 100k. With a good subwoofer this can be rectified but I wouldn’t expect the mids to dig super deep. When I sealed my kicks I gained about 3db of output but not much on the low end.



QUOTE="PearlJamFanLV, post: 2476115, member: 48738"]
Would these help with the 6.5 kick panel speakers with the Kicker 6.5"?
https://a.co/d/4ChJzBi

Or these https://a.co/d/9m86yC2

I feel I am missing some mid-bass. I did whole conversion with the 8" sub, the rear 6.5 in pods, dash, and kick panel speaker with the 200.4 and 500.1.
[/QUOTE]

 

[PearlJamFanLV]

I would say no to the first option and maybe to the second. The biggest issue is the location and enclosure for the Bronco mid bass speakers. I can tell you that on an RTA my mids drop off sharply after 100k. With a good subwoofer this can be rectified but I wouldn’t expect the mids to dig super deep. When I sealed my kicks I gained about 3db of output but not much on the low end.



QUOTE="PearlJamFanLV, post: 2476115, member: 48738"]
Would these help with the 6.5 kick panel speakers with the Kicker 6.5"?
https://a.co/d/4ChJzBi

Or these https://a.co/d/9m86yC2

I feel I am missing some mid-bass. I did whole conversion with the 8" sub, the rear 6.5 in pods, dash, and kick panel speaker with the 200.4 and 500.1.

[/QUOTE]
I did the 8" Kicker conversion for the sub, and I can notice it. The highs and mids sound good with the dash speakers, but I feel I am missing some of the mid-bass thump I had with the factory speakers. Maybe it's just me.

 

[Jorvin]

Do you have an amp and DSP? If not, it'll be tough to get more out of the kicks, they need more power and you'll have EQ/timing issues without a DSP. I've had a small JBL amp/dsp for a while, Focal ACX165s (with/without the foam baffles), different acoustic treatments, there was an improvement but not great. Next I tried Hertz Cento C165L 6.5"s, much much better. You don't want coax in the kicks.

I'm in process of installing AudioFrog GB60s and pushing 200W RMS to each, all new amps/DSP/speakers/acoustic treatment/wiring, if this doesn't work than nothing will up front. Just finished my custom speaker mounts for the kicks, tweeters next, I have a long way to go on the rest of the system before I can power it up.

Edit: BTW, I assumed you have a sub.

Any update on the frogs?

 

[mhtucker78]

You could try those foam speaker baffles. I’m going to install on one kick this weekend and see what it does as compared to the other side without the baffle.

Any update as to whether this helped?

 

[mjp2]

I did the 8" Kicker conversion for the sub, and I can notice it. The highs and mids sound good with the dash speakers, but I feel I am missing some of the mid-bass thump I had with the factory speakers. Maybe it's just me.

Did you block the port on the factory subwoofer box when you replaced the subwoofer? It makes a huge difference as the ported box is tuned for the factory speaker and not the aftermarket one.

 

[PearlJamFanLV]

Did you block the port on the factory subwoofer box when you replaced the subwoofer? It makes a huge difference as the ported box is tuned for the factory speaker and not the aftermarket one.

Yes I did. I added polyfill and stuffed a rag in the port. It's not really the sub I am worried about. It has to do more with the front sound stage.

 

[zuke]

Any update as to whether this helped?

I tried a set of the boom mat baffles on mine with both the stock speakers and a set of Focal Auditors, They made it worse in both cases... Both Muddied and Muffled the sound.

 

[Hemisfear]

There are also these ones, https://a.co/d/9m86yC2 , they may help with keeping the water out if that where to ever happen.

I tried those when I did my MoBridge install last fall, they did not really fit and so I returned them.

 

[Hemisfear]

Yes I did. I added polyfill and stuffed a rag in the port. It's not really the sub I am worried about. It has to do more with the front sound stage.

I read a lot on polyfil and I'm not convinced it works. I also tried filling the sub enclosure in my FoST and heard no difference, so I didn't bother with the Bronco and I have no complaints with it!
The rag in the4 port will do virtually nothing...

 

[mjp2]

If you have a printer you can download a port blocker from Maker World.

Granted I'm running an amp, but the bass is tight and doesn't drop off at random frequencies. (measured the spectrum with a UMIK-1 microphone)

 

[indio22]

Most car speakers in that size are designed around being placed in a door with much more volume. Air leaks exposed to front of speaker are not helping. A good sub and properly tuned DSP along with good kick panel speakers will give good results. And sealing off the holes near front of speaker.

Front air sealing, especially for dash speakers, is an issue for many installs. The stock dash speakers seal to the grills, but most aftermarket speakers do not, so the sound from the back of the speaker can go right out the front.

 

[Squatch]

I went through this effort I cut plastic pieces to close the large hole and glued it in place. Then I 3D printed some adapter rings for dayton audio 6.5’s. Ran them to a kicker key mounted above the glove box. I used spray foam to seal up inside where the clips protrude into the cavity. I ran the speaker wire in from above where there is a foam seal and sprayed some expanding foam to seal that as well.

I measured this setup with REW and it gets down to about 55hz fairly decently. I ran that for over a year before I threw in a sub.

Where's your write-up???

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