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userdude

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It’s probably more of a spring issue with the stock Bilstein's, because the ESC-V should be getting very stiff at high shock speeds nearing the end of their travel. 6100's certainly wouldn't hurt the situation, but I think that you might benefit from a stiffer spring (which I just might happen to have for you in my garage) depending on the spring you currently have (it may be the same spring).

MB3Z-5560-F are the rear springs I have.
Is that the tow-related spring?
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mpeugeot

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Is that the tow-related spring?
Yes. It's the spring used on the non-sasquatch 2 door Badlands 2.7 with tow, but I believe that it is the same spring for Sasquatch too (it's used with the 2.3 Sasquatch and tow package).
 

Bronc69

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I am going with an optimized 35" setup in order to get the most out of them.
I'll be doing moderate to more extreme off roading with lots of street driving as this is my daily.

I have finally received my Bilstein 8112 (TY Panda!)
I also have the APG Upper control arms, 74 Weld billet rack and when they finish them, the Next Venture aluminum skids.
I do have some added weight with bumpers (aluminum front with a winch) and the RTR rear bumper and spare tire carrier, plus the weight of the skids.
 

userdude

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Yes. It's the spring used on the non-sasquatch 2 door Badlands 2.7 with tow, but I believe that it is the same spring for Sasquatch too (it's used with the 2.3 Sasquatch and tow package).
I wonder if I could get my dealer to install those when they swap out the rear shocks sometime later this year. Are they new?
 

mpeugeot

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I wonder if I could get my dealer to install those when they swap out the rear shocks sometime later this year. Are they new?
No, they are used, but free. They were fine, driven only on Sundays to and from church by an elderly man.

If you are not in a rush, I can help you install them. It's not all that hard to replace the springs (and the rear shocks are easy to pull compared to the front). I am going to be out of the country soon for about a month or two.

Just DM me if you want to come pick them up (they are still on the shocks at the moment).
 

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nolimits

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Yes. It's the spring used on the non-sasquatch 2 door Badlands 2.7 with tow, but I believe that it is the same spring for Sasquatch too (it's used with the 2.3 Sasquatch and tow package).
I wonder if I could get my dealer to install those when they swap out the rear shocks sometime later this year. Are they new?
I will check the model numbers on my springs tonight when I get home but I also have my stock stuff just taking up space in my garage.

Mine is a 4 door Badlands non-SAS, 2.7, hard top & tow package. Been awhile since I looked at that chart but I *think* my stock springs should be one of the stiffer ones available.

Edited to Add:
Just saw @mpeugeot’s last response. If you are both in TX that’s probably a more logical choice as I’m in MO.
 

mpeugeot

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I will check the model numbers on my springs tonight when I get home but I also have my stock stuff just taking up space in my garage.

Mine is a 4 door Badlands non-SAS, 2.7, hard top & tow package. Been awhile since I looked at that chart but I *think* my stock springs should be one of the stiffer ones available.
You should have the following rear spring: MB3Z-5560-C

I think, but I have no data to support it, that A is the least stiff and F is the most stiff. This is how Ford normally codes springs.

Alternatively, based on the data from the chart, A would be least stiff, F would be in the middle, and C would be the stiffest. However, logically that doesn't make much sense.

It sure would be nice if Ford provided specifications for their damn springs.
 
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userdude

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No, they are used, but free. They were fine, driven only on Sundays to and from church by an elderly man.

If you are not in a rush, I can help you install them. It's not all that hard to replace the springs (and the rear shocks are easy to pull compared to the front). I am going to be out of the country soon for about a month or two.

Just DM me if you want to come pick them up (they are still on the shocks at the moment).
I dunno, might be tempting to get me some more Angry Cactus... lol Not in a huge hurry, especially if I keep the ESC-V's long enough to get them replaced later this year. I'll keep you posted.
 

B22-2023

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Depends how much actual lift you have. If you have lost over an 1" to added weight more spacer is fine. If you lost 2" of lift to weight then no off the shelf shock is going to really ride better than what you have. You are on the right track of Accutune being one of the best solutions.
Thanks, let me do some measurements vs a stock WT (axle center to wheel well) rhen do some calcs to back out my spacer/perch, and see where that puts me as to current loss of lift from weight. And I’ll go from there.
 

B22-2023

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Depends how much actual lift you have. If you have lost over an 1" to added weight more spacer is fine. If you lost 2" of lift to weight then no off the shelf shock is going to really ride better than what you have. You are on the right track of Accutune being one of the best solutions.
And one more try for Eibach @Snacktime, since @userdude reminded me in his comment - I still need to measure but talking to Eibach and Panda last month, they recommended the preinstalled HD springs for my heavy situation and that is what is on my radar. Fairly new and you may not have tested them - (accomodates 150lbs additional weight over front axle and 500lbs additional weight over rear axle).
 

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OCNORB1974

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Here's a better explanation:

Add'l unsprung weight: 4 x 19lbs = 76lbs
Add'l sprung weight: 80lbs + 19lbs + 30lbs = 129lbs

Is the unsprung weight in the territory of stiffer springs (2dr), like maybe the 6112s (if it's a stiffer spring than Sas) or the Eibach 2.0's w/HD springs (is it too stiff)?

And is the dampening of the 6100's enough for weight increase, or am I really looking at those for their variable height re: sprung weight?
I don't understand a single thing you typed.
 

2021FordBronco2

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This is the current recommendation on how to choose your lift. I no longer recommend spacer lifts, this is due to possible cv axle damage and added wear to front differential seals. I am also not recommending lift springs since they don't always net the same lift and that you need more shock to control them. I have become much less concerned with suspension travel as we find the limits of stock parts. This is based on running stock parts like factory cv-axles which is the biggest limiting factor to lifts.

0-2" Lift on 35s from Malls to Mild Trails -Your not going to disrupt the driving characteristics or effect long term reliability
  • Perch collars, stiffens the ride and okay if low mileage.
  • 5100s Bilsteins are the cheapest recommendable shock replacement, they have better dampening with increased road feedback. Best option for NON-SAS Broncos.
  • 6100s Bilsteins are an upgrade over 5100, they are better suited to bigger tires only work on SAS broncos. Best option for SAS Broncos.
  • Eibach Stage 2.0 Pro Truck with normal springs, "subjective" but most likely the best ride, they are designed for less road feedback. Best option for a 35" and smaller tire and if you are fairly stock. Have easy adjustment to get that perfect lift.
0-2" Lift on 35s Mild Trails to you have added some weight-Your are going to disrupt the driving characteristics!
  • Perch collars, stiffens the ride and okay if low mileage.
  • 5100s Bilsteins provide known lift and can counter the weight of extra items. Best option for NON-SAS Broncos.
  • 6100s Bilsteins provide known lift and can counter the weight of extra items. Best option for SAS Broncos.
2-4" of lift beacuse you need the ground clearance or lots of weight, going to have adverse driving characteristics and lots of wear and tear. You will want a differential drop if over 3" of lift. Upper control arms should be added after 3" of lift.
  • Body lift 1.5" or 2" or 3" stacked with a lower lift.
  • 2.5" Shocks
    • 6100s Bilsteins but they are really running out of lift.
    • 6112 Bilsteins for the NON-SAS broncos.
    • Icon EXP Shocks which go up to 3"
  • Real 2.5" coilovers
    • Kings
    • Fox
    • Icon
    • Insert name here
Going to 37" Tires, you are now adding wear and tear to the vehicle and effecting long term reliability
  • Clearance to prevent hitting the top of the fender
    • Shock specifically designed for 37s.
    • Body lift, you need to add at least 1/2" to 3/4". Less long term wear.
    • 1" leveling kit to space down the front coilover. More long term wear and not recommend for M190 differential Broncos. You will want a front differential drop.
    • Shock shaft spacer provided by the shock manufacturer.
  • Some form of lift
    • Perch collars you have to much tire for the stock shocks.
    • Eibach Stage 2.0 Bilsteins are stiffer and handle the heavy tire better.
    • 5100s Bilsteins starting to be the limit of what a 2" shock can dampen.
    • 6100s Bilsteins best solution as they are big enough to control the tire.
    • 2.5" Shocks
    • 2.5" Coilovers
5+" Bracket lifts are not currently recommend for any reason. This is opening a can of worms that leads to stress.
How would you rate my setup, I have a base 3.73 axle gear BB that I put Hoss 3.0 suspension with 2" Foutz collar lift and SAS wheels and General Grabber ATXs in 315/70/R17s
 

Big Boss

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I don't understand a single thing you typed.
Exactly how I feel when reading these threads, or threads where people are talking about wiring accessories and relays and amps and volts and

Ford Bronco 2025 Suspension Recommendations (by Snacktime) IMG_20250207_102445
 

userdude

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Gotta admit, me either, but I'm trying to learn.
Really? I added tires that are 19lbs heavier and 80lbs heavier plates/bumpers/sliders, plus 30lbs of stuff I take off roading. Some of that is unsprung, some of that is sprung (supported by the springs). Some of that affects the dampening of the shocks, but also some of it is offset by shock settings (which I don't understand as well).

Are the 6100's a benefit here or not? It doesn't seem that complicated to me, but I think it's really just a springs vs suspension question.
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