Transmission fluid change questions

[pakrat]

did you just stick the hose end in to suck out the fluid or you have a screw in fitting? Thanks

There is candy cane shaped tool that you can buy off ford ($100 + from what I remember). I made my own from some aluminum 1/4" tubing that can be easily bent into any shape. I slide some clear rubber hose over the end of the aluminum tubing to extend it about 3"-4" to the bottom of the pan. The rubber extension isn't shown but it slips over just like it does on the other end. Super easy and cheap.

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[RedSoloCup]

There is candy cane shaped tool that you can buy off ford ($100 + from what I remember). I made my own from some aluminum 1/4" tubing that can be easily bent into any shape. I slide some clear rubber hose over the end of the aluminum tubing to extend it about 3"-4" to the bottom of the pan. The rubber extension isn't shown but it slips over just like it does on the other end. Super easy and cheap.

Nice. Thanks. I can easily do that at work

 

[raptorusmaximus]

so, I couldn't find a video of the whole thing other than the snow guy ( who doesn't like field repairs ) has anyone else seen one specific to the bronco? I just hit 30k and dont have alot of confidence in the 10r60 so I've been thinking about changing the fluid.

 

[Ducati1098]

so, I couldn't find a video of the whole thing other than the snow guy ( who doesn't like field repairs ) has anyone else seen one specific to the bronco? I just hit 30k and dont have alot of confidence in the 10r60 so I've been thinking about changing the fluid.

I rebuild Ford transmissions for a living. Out of all the transmissions I work on, I’ve had fewer 10R60’s apart than almost any other transmission. I’m not saying they’re bulletproof, but they’re pretty damn close. Hopefully that will help with your confidence in them.
But either way, I think preventively changing the fluid is a great idea before 100k or whatever the scheduled mileage is.

 

[pakrat]

so, I couldn't find a video of the whole thing other than the snow guy ( who doesn't like field repairs ) has anyone else seen one specific to the bronco? I just hit 30k and don't have a lot of confidence in the 10r60 so I've been thinking about changing the fluid.

If you only want to change the fluid and not the filter or replace the pan itself with an aftermarket pan it is very easy. Buy the Ford tool or make one like I did in the above post. Add on the 4" tubing extension, suck out 6 qts., replace six qts., and repeat once or twice after driving it to circulate the fluid in between each drain fill cycle and you will have done a poor man's transmission flush. Of course you won't be replacing the filter, cleaning the pan or any of the fine metal paste off of the magnet but you will have nice fresh fluid.

Check out this thread. It is very helpful if you want to do the filter or replace the pan with one that has a drain. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/ppe-transmision-pan-installed.66081/

 

[blacksapphirez]

Fully agree and would add that it should be changed early in the transmissions life to remove the break in metals.

EDIT - after watching this video (from this point), it verifies that at ambient, if you are a "box" level below the required level at full temperature then it will be at the proper level when it is at full temperature.

Ergo, since the 10R60 in the Bronco is supposed to be between 3 and 4 at full temperature, if you fill to between 4 and 5 at ambient, you should be good at full temperature. I would still check, but at least the filling will not need to happen when the catalytic converter is at branding temperature.

Initial fill from the service manual with fluid at ambient temperature:

Final fill from the service manual with fluid between 206°F and 215°F:

so i pulled off the dipstick and at ambient temp, it was WAY up at the top (above 1) but not coming out of the fill hole.

did they overfill at the factory?

 

[Ducati1098]

so i pulled off the dipstick and at ambient temp, it was WAY up at the top (above 1) but not coming out of the fill hole.

did they overfill at the factory?

Was the bronco running with the transmission in park?

 

[blacksapphirez]

Was the bronco running with the transmission in park?

No just sitting. Did not start.

 

[Ducati1098]

No just sitting. Did not start.

Well that’s why it was way over then. You have the check transmission fluid with the vehicle running

 

[Nc211]

When I did mine at 4k miles, the car was cold. I set it up the night before and then went at it the next morning. Was part of changing over to the PPE transmission pan for the drain plug ability. Skip all the repeats.......I refilled it with 6 quarts of Ford fluid. at 6,800 miles I had it at the dealership for tire rotation, and asked for the transmission fluid level to be checked to verify it was ok. They hooked it up to "FDRS" to monitor trans temperature fluid level, then pulled the pulled the dip stick, which read "between 3 and 4 - within spec."

So, for me, pan off with new filter....6 quarts refill cold = perfect level of 3 to 4 on the dipstick when hot.

 

[SierraBronco]

Something to think about on extended service intervals on your auto transmission. The higher temps degrade the fluid faster & will not last those extended intervals in providing the protection it needs. So always take into account how you are using your vehicle & plan maintenance accordingly.

$.02

Absolutely in agreement here. We only have 26,000 miles on ours but the transmission will be getting serviced the next time we have the skids off. All that playing on rocks at a low idle or throttled up and not moving due to the angles takes a toll.

 

[LSW]

Fully agree and would add that it should be changed early in the transmissions life to remove the break in metals.

EDIT - after watching this video (from this point), it verifies that at ambient, if you are a "box" level below the required level at full temperature then it will be at the proper level when it is at full temperature.

Ergo, since the 10R60 in the Bronco is supposed to be between 3 and 4 at full temperature, if you fill to between 4 and 5 at ambient, you should be good at full temperature. I would still check, but at least the filling will not need to happen when the catalytic converter is at branding temperature.

Initial fill from the service manual with fluid at ambient temperature:

Final fill from the service manual with fluid between 206°F and 215°F:

Thank you for all the valuable info!

By checking at ambient, do you mean that we can check the level with the engine off, or just with room temp fluid, but engine running?

Also, the pictures seem to show a 3 unit difference between cold and hot fluid, but you wrote it should be between 3 and 4 cold and 4 and 5 hot, which is a 1-2 unit difference. Do you know which is applicable?

going to maybe try this out today since I have the mityvac, Mercon ulv and a PPE regular size pan, but would prefer to do it at room temp with engine off in the garage since it’s 0F outside.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thank you for all the valuable info!

By checking at ambient, do you mean that we can check the level with the engine off, or just with room temp fluid, but engine running?

Also, the pictures seem to show a 3 unit difference between cold and hot fluid, but you wrote it should be between 3 and 4 cold and 4 and 5 hot, which is a 1-2 unit difference. Do you know which is applicable?

going to maybe try this out today since I have the mityvac, Mercon ulv and a PPE regular size pan, but would prefer to do it at room temp with engine off in the garage since it’s 0F outside.

It would be at room temperature, but with the engine running in park.

Note, the numbers are reversed on the dipstick; e.g. the higher the level the lower the number. I would start at 5 at room temperature and check it after it reaches operating temperature--it should be between 3 and 4 at operating temperature.

Much easier to add versus remove.

 

[Langwilliams]

I haven't done a pan fluid swap yet but from what I've read before you check it you need to start the engine, put it in reverse holding the brake for 10 seconds an into drive for ten seconds then check it. Might be BS but I think I read it somewhere.

 

[LSW]

This is what my dipstick was at cold with the engine shutdown for 6 hours. By the way the cover for this thing is truly annoying to take off, confined space and torqued like hell, yet also boogers/strips easy. Needed a 19mm wrench that had a captured/ratcheting function. I could not get it off with an open ended although someone more talented probably could.

This was unfortunately all I could get out with the MityVac before dropping the pan. About 2 quarts.

I dropped the pan into a big Tupperware storage container then funneled everything into the mityvac. This tube is 2.3 gallons so this worked out to about 6.5 quarts. I probably spilled half a quart. I tried to put 7 quarts back in and spilled about half a quart of that too. Dipstick was just barely touching the 6 at the bottom of the dipstick with engine running and transmission tempt about 80F.

Lookey what I found in my filter! Some kind of “made in Mexico” tag hanging out of it. First time I’ve ever had this thing open in 15,000 since new. Glad I did this, lol.

This was hanging out of the filter, I’m going to guess it’s not supposed to be there.

Magnet crud on the filter at 15,000.

I Replaced the filter and put the PPE pan on.

I would not recommend trying to torque the drain pan bolts to 18-22 ft lbs like PPE said. I just firmed them up with a 1/4” socket wrench in the specified cross pattern. Mea culpa for not realizing right away that was way too much torque for an 8mm bolt.

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