Regearing and doing 37s right

[MrCooper]

I know the topic of 37s has really been beaten to death but I have some specific questions I could not find the answers to. Essentially, I want to make sure I'm doing things necessary or if anything is unnecessary.

I have a 22, 2 door black diamond with MT. Non Sas, so 4:46 gearing.

I would like to go to 37s but also want it to still be capable. I understand the rack and the m190 are considered weak points with 37s, correct?

Plan:
Ford severe duty steering upgrade kit
M210 front with 5.13 gearing
Eibach 2.0 coilovers + UCA

Questions:
What do I need to do to match the rear to 5.13 gearing?

The 5.13 rear gear and pinion from Ford says it fits rear axle with factory rear locker but also that non sas MT have a welded ring gear and requires a differential replacement. Since the BD has the rear locker, does it still have the welded ring gear, having a MT? Would I need to replace the entire rear axle?

Additional Question:
I know that I can get the m210 front with 4:46 gearing, which would negate having to do anything with the rear. But my understanding is that going to 37s with 446 AND MT may be a bit sluggish. Would you definitely recommend going to 5.13 gearing? I do plan to do the ford perform tune as well.

Is there anything else I need to consider?

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[Squatch]

If you're doing it in stages/steps--often life and shop/driveway time is limiting--then I recommend this order:

FP Tune(I think you can combo with steering)
HD Steering
Suspension
Front diff and rear gear

Don't forget something like the JKS max clearance for the front.

I'll have to search, but I think you're good for the rear to regear.

Do not expect it to be super fast/quick with 37s. My MT Badlands on 33s is a pretty quick brick with the FP tune, but I know going to 37s will slow it down. The 5.13s will help you a lot, but if you want sports car performance then you will be disappointed.

It will be awesome and rowing your own cannot be replaced just know before you grow!

 

[Monster1926]

I just threw toyo 37s (heavy) on my badlands. Granted I have the 4.70 gears it was sluggish. I just got back from the dealer, they installed the pro cal. I figured I would get the power that I lost back but in reality, I got way more than that. The transmission is smooth as butter now, and When you touch the pedal it takes off. Well worth it my opinion, plus like the person above me said you’ll need it to reprogram the steering gear anyways. If I were you, I would get the programmer then I would get the tires and go from there, you might Feel that with the programmer, the power is right back to where it was.

 

[MrCooper]

If you're doing it in stages/steps--often life and shop/driveway time is limiting--then I recommend this order:

FP Tune(I think you can combo with steering)
HD Steering
Suspension
Front diff and rear gear

Don't forget something like the JKS max clearance for the front.

I'll have to search, but I think you're good for the rear to regear.

Do not expect it to be super fast/quick with 37s. My MT Badlands on 33s is a pretty quick brick with the FP tune, but I know going to 37s will slow it down. The 5.13s will help you a lot, but if you want sports car performance then you will be disappointed.

It will be awesome and rowing your own cannot be replaced just know before you grow!

Thanks. So, to be clear, you think the 5.13 gear and pinion would be sufficient in the rear and not require a full replacement?

Yeah. I don't expect it to perform like a sports car. I'm pretty happy with the stock performance on 32s. I figure FP tune and 5.13 gearing would make up for the extra weight of 37s. My expectation is that with those two upgrades, it would perform AT LEAST similar to stock with 32s?

 

[RagnarKon]

What do I need to do to match the rear to 5.13 gearing?

The 5.13 rear gear and pinion from Ford says it fits rear axle with factory rear locker but also that non sas MT have a welded ring gear and requires a differential replacement. Since the BD has the rear locker, does it still have the welded ring gear, having a MT? Would I need to replace the entire rear axle?

You just have to re-gear the rear differential.

If you have the rear locking axle already, then that's a new ring and pinion gear.

If you do not have a rear locking axle, then you basically have to replace the entire differential carrier assembly because it's all welded.

I know that I can get the m210 front with 4:46 gearing, which would negate having to do anything with the rear. But my understanding is that going to 37s with 446 AND MT may be a bit sluggish. Would you definitely recommend going to 5.13 gearing? I do plan to do the ford perform tune as well.

Yeah it'll be a bit sluggish, but it won't be catastrophically sluggish. Personally, I don't think re-gearing is necessary right away if you are looking to upgrade in stages.

That said, if you are swapping out the M190 fronts with M210 fronts, then you should obviously buy the M210 FDUs with the final gearing that you want to save on cost

Is there anything else I need to consider?

If you are happy with how the current 4.46 gearing performs, the rough equivalent gearing with 37s is closer to 4.88 than 5.13. Just something to note.

It ultimately depends on what you are looking for. 5.38 gearing, for example, is awesome for off-roading. But around town it's gonna be a lot of shifting. Likewise, 4.88 is better for around town, but may not be super ideal for off-roading.

I have a calculator attached to this post if you want to play around with it.

 

[vrtical]

I think there is a discussion somewhere about 5.13s in a rear M190. I think a Yukon Dana 30 5.13 short will work.
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[MrCooper]

I just threw toyo 37s (heavy) on my badlands. Granted I have the 4.70 gears it was sluggish. I just got back from the dealer, they installed the pro cal. I figured I would get the power that I lost back but in reality, I got way more than that. The transmission is smooth as butter now, and When you touch the pedal it takes off. Well worth it my opinion, plus like the person above me said you’ll need it to reprogram the steering gear anyways. If I were you, I would get the programmer then I would get the tires and go from there, you might Feel that with the programmer, the power is right back to where it was.

Yeah, as far as performance goes, this was a thought of mine. But I really want to upgrade the rack as well. Since I have the m190, it makes sense to upgrade this at the same time. If I can "simply" replace the rear gear and pinion, I'd go ahead with 5.13 gearing. If I'd have to replace the entire axle, maybe I hold off on the m210 just to see how it rides with 446 and tune on 37s.

 

[userdude]

You just have to re-gear the rear differential.

A little on the side discussion, but if I had 4.7 and wanted to go to 5.38, I'd only regear the rear axle? I don't know why, but I thought the gearings had to match. Starting to wonder what I'm missing.

 

[Monster1926]

Yeah, as far as performance goes, this was a thought of mine. But I really want to upgrade the rack as well. Since I have the m190, it makes sense to upgrade this at the same time. If I can "simply" replace the rear gear and pinion, I'd go ahead with 5.13 gearing. If I'd have to replace the entire axle, maybe I hold off on the m210 just to see how it rides with 446 and tune on 37s.

That’s the rack I have, You could definitely tell it’s 37 under there steering a lot heavier now I figure I’ll wait until it toast out and then upgrade the rack. I think you could buy it right now 25% off from Ford.

 

[MrCooper]

You just have to re-gear the rear differential.

If you have the rear locking axle already, then that's a new ring and pinion gear.

If you do not have a rear locking axle, then you basically have to replace the entire differential carrier assembly because it's all welded.


Yeah it'll be a bit sluggish, but it won't be catastrophically sluggish. Personally, I don't think re-gearing is necessary right away if you are looking to upgrade in stages.

That said, if you are swapping out the M190 fronts with M210 fronts, then you should obviously buy the M210 FDUs with the final gearing that you want to save on cost

If you are happy with how the current 4.46 gearing performs, the rough equivalent gearing with 37s is closer to 4.88 than 5.13. Just something to note.

It ultimately depends on what you are looking for. 5.38 gearing, for example, is awesome for off-roading. But around town it's gonna be a lot of shifting. Likewise, 4.88 is better for around town, but may not be super ideal for off-roading.

I have a calculator attached to this post if you want to play around with it.

Thank you for this feedback and insight! You gave me some additional things to think about.

I do plan to do everything at once, unless I decide to hold off on the m210 just to see how 446 gearing rides.

I would say I'm more "content" than happy with the current performance of 446 with stock 32s. This is a second/fun vehicle and outside of summer, will mostly be driven on weekends. I would like it to be very capable and *less" likely to break things when off roading. But it will still probably be more on pavement/around town than offroading or any serious off roading. Gas mileage is not a huge concern.

Would you say, then, that 5.13 is a good medium for mixed use? If 5.38 is great for offroading but 4.88 is better around town.

 

[BlueBronco]

OP, what kind of off-roading do you plan on doing? Knowing this we can more easily guide you in requirements and stages.

However, I think I would search out a used 2-door Badlands and consider trading yours in. By the time you pay for the gear and axle upgrades you may be more than the price delta on a trade-in. And everything would be warrantied, if that is a concern. The manual BL has 4.7 gearing which is a good combo for 37's, especially on a 2-door. And if you are just mild off-roading then I wouldn't even worry about upgrading the steering rack.

 

[BAUS67]

A little on the side discussion, but if I had 4.7 and wanted to go to 5.38, I'd only regear the rear axle? I don't know why, but I thought the gearings had to match. Starting to wonder what I'm missing.

The gears in the front rear have to be the same as the gears in the rear rear. What he meant was you can just do the gears if you have an electronic locking diff.

 

[userdude]

The gears in the front rear have to be the same as the gears in the rear rear. What he meant was you can just do the gears if you have an electronic locking diff.

Front rear and rear rear? lol

 

[Squatch]

OP, 4.88s should be plenty with FP Tune. The great part about the tune with a manual is the downshift rev matching! It sounds like something small, especially since I've driven manuals for decades, but it really eases the whole experience when you get around traffic.

A little on the side discussion, but if I had 4.7 and wanted to go to 5.38, I'd only regear the rear axle? I don't know why, but I thought the gearings had to match. Starting to wonder what I'm missing.

Pretty sure that was just rear axle specific advice vice the welded factory rear needing the whole shabang.

 

[BAUS67]

Front rear and rear rear? lol

I was going to retype but just said "F" IT!!


Front diff and rear diff is what I should have said.

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