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gtabert

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Dana covers both M220 ELD and Limited Slip with that spec--I should have noted that.

Thanks for catching it.
I tend to read all information on topics send as attachments, maybe others don't. It's how I learn all nuances on any topic that interests me.

You've been very helpful on starting and participating in this thread.

Thank You
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SWLABRONCO

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For the idiots like me in the audience, who will be paying the stealership to do this - which are the fluids in question? Front and rear diff, and what else? TIA.
Carbonsteel is right. I just changed the fluid in the front/rear differential, and the transfer case on my 2016 F150. It's a very easy job. My dealership wanted $275 for each differential and $75 for the transfer case. I used all amsoil products and it cost me $115. This was the first time I've ever done that on any of my rigs. YouTube is your friend. Wife's Bronco is next.
 
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CarbonSteel

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I will be installing it this weekend and will post some photos.
The weekend ran away from me, but I am also looking at longer studs to replace the plastic brake line mounts. They should be in this week so I'll try to do this on Friday.
 

gtabert

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The weekend ran away from me, but I am also looking at longer studs to replace the plastic brake line mounts. They should be in this week so I'll try to do this on Friday.
I followed your lead on the Ford Cover, plan on changing every 25k, why fight cover removal each time, I ordered it with Pass Points. I did not think you would need new studs, where did you get the studs from / Part number please
 
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CarbonSteel

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I followed your lead on the Ford Cover, plan on changing every 25k, why fight cover removal each time, I ordered it with Pass Points. I did not think you would need new studs, where did you get the studs from / Part number please
If you are using the OEM plastic brake line clips, the supplied studs should be fine.

I am looking to switch to stainless rubber lined clamps and to maintain the OEM orientation, I will need longer studs and double nuts to hold those clamps.

Be aware the plastic OEM clips are not available separately, they are only available with the left brake line (thanks Ford).
 

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gtabert

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If you are using the OEM plastic brake line clips, the supplied studs should be fine.

I am looking to switch to stainless rubber lined clamps and to maintain the OEM orientation, I will need longer studs and double nuts to hold those clamps.

Be aware the plastic OEM clips are not available separately, they are only available with the left brake line (thanks Ford).
Thanks, Good idea! I have a bunch of those in a kit, I may see what fits, I can understand the reasoning, plastic clips can and will break, hate to see the line dangling if that happened.
 

gtabert

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Nope. 75W-110 in the front for the reason you stated...less than 1QT capacity.

75W-140 in the rear based upon my experience with Dana 44 Advantek axles and Dana's recommendation vs. Ford's.
Oddly both have the Friction modifiers. Question - I'm sure you have your reasons for using the heavier Gear Oil. Based on your experience as you mention here, care to give me a short answer as to your thinking? I like Red Line products, never used Amsoil is there any reason you can think of not to use Redline? I suppose in the end one or the other really comes down to preference, over thinking this can drive you nuts. I appreciate your input, thank you.
 

broadicustomworks

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Thanks for the link and code.
With the FP points and code I ended up getting the cover shipped to me, grand total of $10.62 to cover the shipping.
SWEET.
Yeah, @CarbonSteel, I got mine for $53 (I had already used some of my points).
 

broadicustomworks

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Yeah, @CarbonSteel, I got mine for $53 (I had already used some of my points).
Heckuva deal either way for a good-looking and quite-more-functional for service cover!
I'm pretty stoked for a Monday afternoon now.
Finally found something to burn off those points before they expired and it ended up being something useful!
I did use some of them to get a handful of the fender flare clips and I think maybe a set of brake pads for front and rear for the "one day" they will need it.
 

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CarbonSteel

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Oddly both have the Friction modifiers. Question - I'm sure you have your reasons for using the heavier Gear Oil. Based on your experience as you mention here, care to give me a short answer as to your thinking? I like Red Line products, never used Amsoil is there any reason you can think of not to use Redline? I suppose in the end one or the other really comes down to preference, over thinking this can drive you nuts. I appreciate your input, thank you.
Honestly, nearly all synthetic gear oil has FM in it. It does not harm non-LSD axles.

A few thoughts on heavier gear oil:

For decades Ford specified 75W-140 in their 9.75" and larger axles only reducing to 75W-90 in the last few years. The only reason that Ford and every other OEM would reduce the viscosity is to gain more CAFE credits (e.g. increase MPG). This is not conducive to long axle life--did they redesign the bearings, gears and axles? No, and your right foot, a head wind, higher loads, towing, or running at altitude will impact MPG more than a viscosity change ever will.

Dana Advantek axles run much hotter than previous generations. I installed ISS Pro gauges in my Wrangler with D44 M210 and M220 axles and they ran 225°F on the highway unloaded. While I have not checked the Bronco given it is the same design, I can only assume the same temperatures. In the Wrangler, FCA chose to reduce the oil capacity from Dana's design, though the Bronco does not appear to have that issue in the rear, but the front is a joke--1quart capacity.


75W-110 was the upper viscosity range of 75W-90 before the J306 tables were updated some years ago, so if one wants heavy duty 75W-90 oil, then 75W-110 should be the choice.

Last, but not least, Dana recommends 75W-140 and they have no stake in the MPG game.

Hope this helps!
 
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Aut-Lin

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Thanks for all the info you've provided in this thread @CarbonSteel ! Based on everything in here I've decided to replace my diff oils with Caterpillar 75W-140 gear oil as I can get that through my work.

Definitely not concerned with any MPG loss, if any, and I figure with all the off roading I do the extra protection for the thicker oil at operating temp will be welcomed.
 

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Finally found something to burn off those points before they expired and it ended up being something useful!
Uh…how often do they “expire”? I was sorta saving up for a set of wheels…

Guess I’m going heavier for my next drain & fill. I put that rear locker to work often.
 

gtabert

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Honestly, all synthetic gear oil has FM in it. It does not harm non-LSD axles.

A few thoughts on heavier gear oil:

For decades Ford specified 75W-140 in their 9.75" and larger axles only reducing to 75W-90 in the last few years. The only reason that Ford and every other OEM would reduce the viscosity is to gain more CAFE credits (e.g. increase MPG). This is not conducive to long axle life--did they redesign the bearings, gears and axles? No, and your right foot, a head wind, higher loads, towing, or running at altitude will impact MPG more than a viscosity change ever will.

Dana Advantek axles run much hotter than previous generations. I installed ISS Pro gauges in my Wrangler with D44 M210 and M220 axles and they ran 225°F on the highway unloaded. While I have not checked the Bronco given it is the same design, I can only assume the same temperatures. In the Wrangler, FCA chose to reduce the oil capacity from Dana's design, though the Bronco does not appear to have that issue in the rear, but the front is a joke--1quart capacity.


75W-110 was the upper viscosity range of 75W-90 before the J306 tables were updated some years ago, so if one wants heavy duty 75W-90 oil, then 75W-110 should be the choice.

Last, but not least, Dana recommends 75W-140 and they have no stake in the MPG game.

Hope this helps!
THANKS!
Great explanation, have to laugh at CAFE Standards from Gear Oil, really.
 

userdude

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Uh…how often do they “expire”? I was sorta saving up for a set of wheels…

Guess I’m going heavier for my next drain & fill. I put that rear locker to work often.
I think they expire two years from when they're given.
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