Not quite 2k
Theres still a coupon running around for $100 off too "BRONCO6G"
Thank you for that info on the repurpose of the speed sensitive setting. That is awesome. I plan to leave an access cable anyway but that feature gives me fingertip changes. I never used all 10 presets with the Sony products. We set up maybe 6 different presets and I only used 2 or 3. Most of the time set it and simply adjust sub level to taylor it.
I just went thru this same journey and with the help of Fraser ended with my final phase which was to simply add in the mobridge a2b/amp/dsp. Its simply the easiest way to not have to compromise in any aspect - whether that be driving a 12" tailgate sub, to components up front, to adding 6.5 pods in the rear...the amp can handle it all. I did this all in phases hoping that each step would add enough - started with just upgrading all the 4" speakers and kick panel - then a kicker key 500.1 and added a sub - then added 6.5 pods in the rear....I was not a believer in the beginning, but Fraser has sent me so many different files to help jump start me on getting the DSP how I want it to be (outside of doing my own config). Its so much more than just an equalizer as it can set low/high/band passes at each individual speaker, gains at the speaker level, delays at the speaker level. Now with a "bronco" kit that provides you with the the power from the battery as well as getting to the rear/center speakers, its really turned into a plug and play kit for the most part!! Its also so easy to leave the USB hanging out of the rear panel and just plugging into a laptop when you want to make changes, or when Fraser sends me another great config file! It was also super rewarding to do it all myself as I learned a ton about the system and how to take all the panels apart!!!
Question: So you went the DSP route - what did you do with your kicker key amp? Is that still part of the system or does the mobridge plugnplay bronco kit replace that?
Yeah, just not sure I'm ready to blow $2k, then another $600-$800 to install it at a pro shop.
Its definitely not a cheap upgrade that is for sure, so it really depends on your audio goals of course.
I took a look at the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward. Way easier and cleaner than splicing wires. I’ll probably go this route when the budget allows.
what speakers do you recommend to match your complete kit?
If anyone has put in a Kick Key for a sub, to Fraser's point, you are 90% of the way there for a full mobridge install. Basically, you need a power wire from the battery to the rear passenger side, you unplug the 3 connections to the OEM B&O amp, and those plug into the Mobridge harness (in the pic on the left its the grey plug (connect to the speakers), blue (the A2B input signal), and a black up near the top partially behind the board (the OEM power/ground wires), you add a ground cable, and the only additional thing is you bring a set of wires from the headunit down the passenger side (do the amp power down the drivers side) those drive the rear pods and the center channel. I also took out the oem sub enclosure (which the oem amp is attached to) and use an MTI amp rack that fits perfectly in the spot. You can see from my pic that I'm not a pro either at installing this stuff (a pro would probably laugh at how mine looks!!) but it is straight forward!! And I did mine without the mobridge premade kit - which now it should make it even easier!!!
I had a Kicker Key 500.1 prior to the Mobridge (amp/dsp) and I just took it out as the 2 channels to run the sub on the mobridge is powerful enough to drive my 12" stinger tailgate sub and just as configurable with crossover point and gain. I assume when you installed the key amp to the sub, you just cut the oem harness off and you used that as the high level inputs into the amp. So just solder those wires (or however you feel comfortable connecting wires) to the speaker wire you have going to the sub (almost like you are physically taking the amp out between the input and output of the speaker wires. When you plug in the mobridge harness, it will give you the signal to the sub thru the oem wire which then you'll have connected to your sub. Hopefully this makes sense, but I was in the same place prior to upgrading....
Next step if you wanted to keep the key amp would be to use our DA-G2 Pro A2B pre-amp/dsp. This will allow you to remove the factory amplifier and get a clean signal via RCA or TOSLINK. I would then feed the RCA outputs of it into just a regular compact 6 channel amp as well as your kicker key amp. So the 6 channel amp would drive your dash speakers kick panel speakers and rear pods and the kicker key would drive the sub. Our Pro unit includes the same DSP core as our amplifier, so you can still use our Bronco tune! It will handle all your crossovers, time alignment, ect.
This really depends on your budget.
