I really doubt I'm going to try to sell anything prepackaged. I'll just be happy if the community can benefit. It's easy enough for anyone to source the parts from your favorite store with the part numbers or just the original model it was for.
Yeah I'm with ya there...it looks like between the Tie rods you found and these knuckles from RC, I think the rack and tie rod issues could be completely eliminated. And gain a bit of wheel travel too!
That's impressive.Well took er for a late night spin...Absolutely Fantastic!!
I gained nearly 1.25" compression travel in the front!!! Unbelievable that I have a FULL 12.5" front wheel travel now!!! The recipe is OEM UCAs folks. And shaved bumps with RC knuckle uprights.... obviously my Fabtec UCAs were bottoming out in the uniball angle available before this.
My real desire here was to straighten out the tie rods angle and this setup fixed that and also gets nearly FULL use of the 80 degrees available from the upper ball joint.... here's a few pics....I'm so happy I'll probably start another thread about this.
The CV angle looks a lot less severe in the second pic?Here is a before and after pictures of the tie rod angle at full droop...what a difference! Imagine for yourself where the force is directed when the tire impacts a rock or stump on the outside edge....the force is transfered across the tie rod into the rack ...and when the tie rod is a t a 45 degree angle then HALF of the force is pushing UP on the inside of the rack, not across. This is where the rack fails...simply when the force is in the wrong direction.
OK I just physically checked it. The stock Bronco outer is undoubtedly 12mm.
This is good stuff. Seems like there is some potential of bump/flex steer if the LCA and tie rod are not traveling along the same arc.Here is a before and after pictures of the tie rod angle at full droop...what a difference! Imagine for yourself where the force is directed when the tire impacts a rock or stump on the outside edge....the force is transfered across the tie rod into the rack ...and when the tie rod is a t a 45 degree angle then HALF of the force is pushing UP on the inside of the rack, not across. This is where the rack fails...simply when the force is in the wrong direction.
That was my concern but maybe it's not enough to worry about. If @BigMeatsBronco could do some high speed testing, seeking out bumps, it should become apparent shortly.
Yes, high speed would be the main concern, as the suspension is being worked, is the tire up there shaking, and potentially leading to some fatigue failure or prematurely wearing out the TRE.
It'd be helpful to have it on an alignment rack to do that so you could accurately measure before and after. There may be some toe gain through the cycle from the factory even. I think toe loss would be most important to avoid, it could cause darty-ness.
Yeah that's next on my list...right now it is just an eyeball alignment and I know my castor and camber are way out of spec too so there lots to do still just to see if it will even work correctly. ...drives fine right now but I can tell it's not quite right yet. I'll get an alignment done Monday or Tuesday.
