Winch wires needed/question

[ghazi223]

Hi, i bought the APG rear winch mount and a Rough Country 9500 Lb winch, the problem im facing and need help with is the power/ground wires provided with the winch are way too short to reach the battery, i went to my local overland shop and they suggested buying the RC 24 ft power cable, BUT its for quick disconnect which i dont like (plus 200 CAD for some wires doesnt sit right with me), my local hardware store said to buy winch wires online but i see too many people talking about different gauges and sizes, ive been on this project wayyy too long i want to get it over with, any help with wiring is greatly appreciated!

(edit):
Also where i am it ranges from 35°C (95°F) in summer to -40°C (-40°f) in winter. so whatever i get needs to be able to handle the weather. and the mud im gonna put it through

Winch mount:
https://automotiveperformancegroup.com/product/bronco-hidden-rear-winch-mounting-plate/

winch:
https://www.roughcountry.com/product/pro-series-electric-winch-pro9500s

quick disconnect wires:
https://www.roughcountry.com/product/quick-disconnect-winch-power-cable-rs108

random wires im hoping work:
https://a.co/d/e49pbBX

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[Smocaine]

I would not trust no-name Amazon brands for that sort of cable. They are notorious for selling cable and fuses that do not meet spec and could easily cause a fire.
Nilight (fairly well known as Amazon brands go, some users run their lighting) sells 2A fuses that don't pop at 10A, for example.

e: to clarify, you probably don't need to shell out for a readymade kit either - just get your wire from somewhere reputable.

 

[popo_patty]

Hi, i bought the APG rear winch mount and a Rough Country 9500 Lb winch, the problem im facing and need help with is the power/ground wires provided with the winch are way too short to reach the battery, i went to my local overland shop and they suggested buying the RC 24 ft power cable, BUT its for quick disconnect which i dont like (plus 200 CAD for some wires doesnt sit right with me), my local hardware store said to buy winch wires online but i see too many people talking about different gauges and sizes, ive been on this project wayyy too long i want to get it over with, any help with wiring is greatly appreciated!

(edit):
Also where i am it ranges from 35°C (95°F) in summer to -40°C (-40°f) in winter. so whatever i get needs to be able to handle the weather. and the mud im gonna put it through

Winch mount:
https://automotiveperformancegroup.com/product/bronco-hidden-rear-winch-mounting-plate/

winch:
https://www.roughcountry.com/product/pro-series-electric-winch-pro9500s

quick disconnect wires:
https://www.roughcountry.com/product/quick-disconnect-winch-power-cable-rs108

random wires im hoping work:
https://a.co/d/e49pbBX

Off topic but be careful with that RC winch. I ran the same exact one in my Bronco. It fried during a river crossing and shorted out my battery. Left me stranded. They don’t like water or mud and being mounted low, it will see nothing but that.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

I've been running these cables with my rear winch for about a year and a half with no problems. No they aren't cheap, but after receiving a couple other sets and not liking them I decided to quit being cheap and be safe. Then again they were only about $150 back then. Also ordered copper lugs and the correct tool. I have a lot of time and effort involved in the rear winch. Don't want to have to pull it apart anytime soon. Same reason I ended up running the Warn M8000-S winch. The Badlands winches I tried didn't fit well, so ordered the one this kit was made for.

https://a.co/d/6FARTo3

 

[Chrome_Pony]

Been running ECWS 1/0 for my LWN's Tigershark 9500SR winch for years: 100% multibundled copper, with Anderson 350A QDs. Even replaced the undersized winch wiring with it. Also buy a hydraulic crimp tool for the terminals if you go this route.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016HFD86Y

 

[Brian_B]

Like @GI_Jo_Nathan, I find that welding cable is your best bang for the buck on big stuff in automotive - it's flexible and strong and covers a very nice temperature range - but if you are running under the chassis or something you do want to protect it with some wire wrap or cable sleeving, the insulation is fairly soft. You can also easily find it at automotive shops, hardware stores, welding supply shops - sometimes even tractor shops or home improvement stores.

For gage - what you are looking for is an ampacity chart. I fall back to the Jasco one often. WIre gauge will depend on how many amps you are running ~AND~ how far you want the wire to go.

https://jascoautomotive.com/automotive-wire-amperage-capacity-chart/

This ampacity chart assumes you will be running the load 100% duty cycle - which isn't realistic for a winch, but would be applicable to something like a light, where you would turn it on and let it run, possibly for hours.

So if you are doing a rear winch install (say, 15' seems reasonable), and the winch is 300A (guessing, it says 5.5hp and I didn't see an amp rating)... that comes out to 4/0 on the ampacity chart - which is some pretty beefy cable. I could see 1/0 working for a winch under typical winch duty cycle (pull for 30 seconds, let it rest for a couple minutes). There is probably a better chart with respect to duty cycle, but honestly, what you are fighting against is heat - if the connections start to get hot, you need to wait for them to cool off. Some people have went as far as to use a thermal camera.

Copper absolutely is not cheap.

Absolutely used crimped connections on this, either buy them pre-crimped in a suitable length, or buy a crimper (not a bad investment and not too expensive), or have someone at an automotive or welding shop crimp ends on, often they will do that for free if you buy the lugs there.

 

[Bronco_joe]

I'm currently doing the same also. Waiting on the rear mount to measure for cables. I'm checking out jeepcables.com. or may go to local welding shop

 

[Brian_B]

Off topic but be careful with that RC winch. I ran the same exact one in my Bronco. It fried during a river crossing and shorted out my battery. Left me stranded. They don’t like water or mud and being mounted low, it will see nothing but that.

Honestly never thought of that happening, but makes me feel better about using a solenoid disconnect.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Honestly never thought of that happening, but makes me feel better about using a solenoid disconnect.

Same. I'm running a disconnect and 600amp fuse. Since I have the cables running along the frame, I'm afraid of accidentally grounding them out.

 

[SierraBronco]

That wire you have listed for Amazon is absolute shit, and these cunts are trying to make it look like their cheap bullshit shortcuts are a good thing. Fucking hell what a bunch of crap. I hate everyone.

4 gauge is too small for a winch. Especially a rear winch. Yes you could use it intermittently and give it breaks, but are you going to be thinking rationally in a situation that could potentially be dangerous? Most people do not. I would suggest 1/0 wire (4/0 would be awesome but like already mentioned that’s some chonky shit and you probably couldn’t even get it to fit the battery. Don’t confuse 4G with 4/0. Two VERY different sizes 1/0=0. 4/0=0000)

DO NOT USE CCA! Copper clad aluminum is absolutely terrible and your voltage loss will be huge at that distance, exacerbating the load on the winch and it will likely overheat sooner. I get it-why spend $120 on a wire when you could get the “same” wire for $30, but pure copper is definitely worth the money. And while we’re talking about wiring I would suggest running the winch ground back to the battery rather than grounding to the frame. It’s a controversial topic among those that actually know about electricity, but after seeing that all the grounding for the entire vehicle is ran through a single harness that is essentially two 4G wires at the battery. Is it worth $100 to know you will possibly reduce the risk of frying a computer?

That is a long run to the back, and if you hook it up like is conventionally set up, you now have an unprotected circuit with a large wire. Definitely get a 500A relay so your rig doesn’t start on fire in the event of an accident or wildlife making a tasty treat out of your insulation.

Grounding discussion

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/i-feel-like-some-fighting-is-in-order.103826/

Helpful links

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...d-electrical-parts-compilation-thread.102132/

Unrelated, but kinda related

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...n-bad-fire-extinguisher-saves-the-day.101905/

 

[ghazi223]

That wire you have listed for Amazon is absolute shit, and these cunts are trying to make it look like their cheap bullshit shortcuts are a good thing. Fucking hell what a bunch of crap. I hate everyone.

4 gauge is too small for a winch. Especially a rear winch. Yes you could use it intermittently and give it breaks, but are you going to be thinking rationally in a situation that could potentially be dangerous? Most people do not. I would suggest 1/0 wire (4/0 would be awesome but like already mentioned that’s some chonky shit and you probably couldn’t even get it to fit the battery. Don’t confuse 4G with 4/0. Two VERY different sizes 1/0=0. 4/0=0000)

DO NOT USE CCA! Copper clad aluminum is absolutely terrible and your voltage loss will be huge at that distance, exacerbating the load on the winch and it will likely overheat sooner. I get it-why spend $120 on a wire when you could get the “same” wire for $30, but pure copper is definitely worth the money. And while we’re talking about wiring I would suggest running the winch ground back to the battery rather than grounding to the frame. It’s a controversial topic among those that actually know about electricity, but after seeing that all the grounding for the entire vehicle is ran through a single harness that is essentially two 4G wires at the battery. Is it worth $100 to know you will possibly reduce the risk of frying a computer?

That is a long run to the back, and if you hook it up like is conventionally set up, you now have an unprotected circuit with a large wire. Definitely get a 500A relay so your rig doesn’t start on fire in the event of an accident or wildlife making a tasty treat out of your insulation.

Grounding discussion

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/i-feel-like-some-fighting-is-in-order.103826/

Helpful links

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...d-electrical-parts-compilation-thread.102132/

Unrelated, but kinda related

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...n-bad-fire-extinguisher-saves-the-day.101905/

okay so my understanding is get a relay and get a fire extinguisher. also run ground to battery. also get element and animal resistant sleeve.

i also found this pure copper wire i can get, does this look good?

if not please link what you suggest!


https://www.homedepot.com/p/WindyNa...-Shrink-Tubing-10G-20B20R-10LG38-HS/319811941

 

[Brian_B]

That wire you have listed for Amazon is absolute shit, and these cunts are trying to make it look like their cheap bullshit shortcuts are a good thing. Fucking hell what a bunch of crap. I hate everyone.

But how do you ~really~ feel?

 

[SierraBronco]

okay so my understanding is get a relay and get a fire extinguisher. also run ground to battery. also get element and animal resistant sleeve.

i also found this pure copper wire i can get, does this look good?


https://www.homedepot.com/p/WindyNa...-Shrink-Tubing-10G-20B20R-10LG38-HS/319811941

That looks like good stuff. Also worth getting a proper crimper for large wiring. Hexagonal crimping tools are awesome and not expensive.

Just a heads up-you’ll likely need to trim a little plastic from the dividers on the positive terminal block to hook up the terminal. 90 degree connections are super helpful too so you can close the cover without needing to notch a bunch out.

 

[Brian_B]

okay so my understanding is get a relay and get a fire extinguisher. also run ground to battery. also get element and animal resistant sleeve.

i also found this pure copper wire i can get, does this look good?

if not please link what you suggest!


https://www.homedepot.com/p/WindyNa...-Shrink-Tubing-10G-20B20R-10LG38-HS/319811941

That kit looks good to me. You would still want cable sleeving for the run back unless you go through the cab

Also, a relay is nice - you can also use either a physical disconnect or manual switch as well. Either of those require you to pop the hood and turn it on vice just flipping a aux switch though, but effectively do the same thing and can have other advantages as well.

I don’t use cheap amazon cables but I absolutely use the ever lovin’ crap out of my cheap Amazon hydraulic crimper set

 

[CalvinT]

3/0 aluminum is the equivalent of 1/0 copper. But there's another problem. Aluminum is more likely to crack or fatigue from vibration. It also expands more with heat and needs aluminum rated terminals. If there was a good reason to use aluminum wiring in a vehicle, all the manufacturers would be doing it. There isn't.

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