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Tune for towing a camper trailer

Larry Martin

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I’m looking for the best tune out there for towing an under 3500 lb camper trailer.
I don’t care for a smoking tire tune just
A all around tune to give my 2.7 the
Most efficient with torque and possible
Mpg’s and better for the engine/transmission

BTW I have a 2021 badlands Sasquatch 2.7
Mine is the first one sold in the whole state
Of Kentucky
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BroncoChallenger

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You probably will just want something that will give you a better shifting strategy for towing - firmer shifts, raised shift points to hold a gear longer, etc. I don't think you'll really want to do much with the motor, the 2.7 is a powerful V6 for its displacement. With 4.7 gears, you shouldn't have any troubles - I pull my FIL's 4500lb boat around without issues.
 

crenca

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@Larry Martin , not sure you need a tune, even the relatively mild Ford Performance one. Even with it, your not going to extract any extra out of the motor without $paying$ for premium (93) and/or mixing in some E85.

Like @BroncoChallenger mentioned, maybe you would prefer the updated shifting map (whether you were towing or not)?
 
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Larry Martin

Larry Martin

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The two camper trailers I’m thinking about is the Nucamp tab 320 black Canyon package and the Casita camper trailer.
Of course heat is the killer for any vehicle longevity
 

BroncoChallenger

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The two camper trailers I’m thinking about is the Nucamp tab 320 black Canyon package and the Casita camper trailer.
Of course heat is the killer for any vehicle longevity
Yeah, I still don't think you'll need or even want a tune. I would suggest trying the pull first, see how it feels, and decide from there if you even want to change anything. You may discover it's fine the way it is.

Biggest suggestion I can make to keep heat down is to keep your speeds down, ideally expressway speeds of 65mph. This SHOULD (I won't say will) keep you in lower boost, which is the #1 adder of heat to the engine. Higher speeds = higher boost = higher heat.
 

Sandy56

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Pulled a 6x12 U-Haul from Nashville to Columbus OH and back. Empty on the way up and decently full on the way back. Comes up to about 2k empty and was probably around 2500 when I brought it back. Bronco had no issues at all. Cruised at 75 the whole way with lots of power to pass. Temps were fine the whole way too.
Mine is an OBX squatch 2.7
 
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Larry Martin

Larry Martin

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Yeah, I still don't think you'll need or even want a tune. I would suggest trying the pull first, see how it feels, and decide from there if you even want to change anything. You may discover it's fine the way it is.

Biggest suggestion I can make to keep heat down is to keep your speeds down, ideally expressway speeds of 65mph. This SHOULD (I won't say will) keep you in lower boost, which is the #1 adder of heat to the engine. Higher speeds = higher boost = higher heat.
I believe 65 is the best safe speed on any highway especially pulling a trailer
 

cbrenthus

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IMO the Bronco is highly underrated when it comes to towing. I towed a 3000-3500 lb camper once, and had no trouble passing on the PA turnpike when needed. Don't go over the 3500 rating for liability reasons, though.

As mentioned, try pulling first then see what you need. For instance, I tried towing a camper that was probably around 5200 lbs with a Grand Cherokee rated for 6200 lbs, and it was much more difficult than the Bronco pulling right at it's limit.
 

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I'd just leave the stock tune in place and use Sport mode.
That’s a good idea to help shifting even just packed up with camping gear on a 10 hour drive. Usually I use manual shifting to get going fast and then leave it mostly to the 10 speed. I don’t know why I never tried Sport,
 

Fordified1

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I put mine in sport mode when I tow and it does just fine. Raises shift points and they’re a little firmer.

EDIT: and run premium fuel.
 

SuperDave150

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Heat is your primary concern. For that, your bumper & winch are blocking some of the most critical areas (others like @flip can direct you to the relevant document). Your secondary concern is cooking your catalytic converters; any tune except Ford tune runs the risk of interfering with Ford’s catalytic converter protection algorithms.
 

brkdncr

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Back in the day you could get an “rv” cam. It had a slight lump to it but added torque.

you’d also add trans cooling, radiator upgrades, and fan/fan shroud upgrades.

you could also get a shift kit or reheat the rear end if you really needed it.

these days almost none of this is needed.

id consider a bigger intercooler and using manual mode more to stay out of extend high-boost situations. Even an in-line trans cooler wouldn’t be needed unless the trans temp was getting to high.
 
 





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