Damage while using winch on improperly installed Rough Country High Mount

[Dusty]

They are mild steel. I didn't think it would be a problem so good catch. My goal is no loose nuts and I was hoping to skip the step of welding nuts to the plate.

Yeah there's no good way around it unfortunately. Using higher grade alloy steel adds cost, as does heat treating it. Best is to just add a proper nut, either loose or welded. But you can get un-plated weld nuts so at least you don't have to grind the plating off before you weld them. And 1/4" would be plenty thick if you're not cutting threads into it.

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[Tricky Dick]

No shade at LOD, I applaud them for providing something and being one of the first, but I couldn't help it.

 

[swooshdave]

My goal is no loose nuts

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

So they’re like a threaded backing plate. Nice!

Are your welding the spacer on the brackets to protect the crumple ridges?

Anything that bolts to the factory horns should bold up with the plates. I wanted to do away with futzing around with nuts, so there's three 1/2" nut plates.


It is designed to be 100% bolt on, but can be welded as well if desired. The only DIY part will probably be painting, I'm leaning towards providing them in raw steel.



The brackets themselves are 1/4", which is still a lot of beef, but the nut plates are 1/2".

 

[chtucker]

The CAD work is done and I'm super stoked, the TrickPlates are going to be bombproof. If I submit the files now there's a chance the prototype shows up before I leave for Moab but I don't want them sitting around a week if they miss me.

The question is before I can commit to a batch, what is the ultimate reinforcement kit worth to you? As it stands now $250 a set is a possibility - raw material costs alone are killing me.

In for a set

 

[Tricky Dick]

So they’re like a threaded backing plate. Nice!

Are your welding the spacer on the brackets to protect the crumple ridges?

Dusty brought up a valid point about the threaded plate so I might have to revisit that. But I want super tight clearances so there's no deformation.

Yes, the crumple standoffs will be welded. Futzing with washers made that a priority right away.

 

[shawn6107]

Anything that bolts to the factory horns should bold up with the plates. I wanted to do away with futzing around with nuts, so there's three 1/2" nut plates.


It is designed to be 100% bolt on, but can be welded as well if desired. The only DIY part will probably be painting, I'm leaning towards providing them in raw steel.



The brackets themselves are 1/4", which is still a lot of beef, but the nut plates are 1/2".

Love that plate that wraps around the bottom of the frame. I’ve been thinking about welding something similar onto the LOD brackets when mine come in.
I still haven’t got the bumper off for various reasons but now I’m probably going to wait for the brackets to get here so I only have to do it once. I will get everyone pictures and measurements when I do.

 

[GreyZ]

Have you looked at having inserts put into the part during the laser cutting? I know we use a lot of SendCutSend parts with the Pem incerts installed by them. Not sure how the cost would break down for those parts though.

 

[Deleted User 5719102]

I'm going to start hacking on them as there are several things I would have done differently.

Oh shit, you are going to have to change the thread title again.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Have you looked at having inserts put into the part during the laser cutting? I know we use a lot of SendCutSend parts with the Pem incerts installed by them. Not sure how the cost would break down for those parts though.

I'm concerned about the strength of those inserts, I'd have to see the calcs on them. Probably going to end up with weld nuts.

 

[Deleted User 5719102]

I'm concerned about the strength of those inserts, I'd have to see the calcs on them. Probably going to end up with weld nuts.

Yes welded nuts would be optimal. Just don't put your nuts in a vise!

 

[RockyBalboa]

I'm in for a set at $250 shipped.

 

[broadicustomworks]

This is the surface the mount ears sit on, without the spacers it's not flat and solid.

Several more pages from here to the end but wanted to say thanks and kudos @Tricky Dick for this post (and the one prior showing the spacers).
My first iteration/install of my mount, I missed them as well.
I had everything on and tight, but it just didn't look right to me.
I didn't like the way the mount sat against the recovery hook plates.
Then (uncharacteristic of us guys) I consulted the directions again, took a look at the hardware and found the mistake.
Unbolting of everything again, but because stubborn is gonna stubborn, I fought to get them in position without a total removal of the bumper or mount, just really loose bolts.

Glad you found the mishap, but in the end a little extra stiffness and support on those horn ends and mount are going to net some strength.
And yes, one of the greatest threads in a while on here.
Quite a bit of helpful info in these 23 pages (or the 13 I have read up to now).

 

[Bearcat1]

I might have found one of the very few benefits of the "Capable" bumper, no need for spacers as the front brackets are flat. Didn't need the spacers when I installed the RC high mount.

 

[BroncoJoerg]

I might have found one of the very few benefits of the "Capable" bumper, no need for spacers as the front brackets are flat. Didn't need the spacers when I installed the RC high mount.

Key words being "one of the very few"...

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