I am convinced that every person recommending a swap has never actually completed a swap and just wants to parrot what they see others say online. Especially not on a modern ecu/module/dfi era vehicle. Also, this is obviously a work vehicle for the original owner. Getting it back on the...
This is the exact reason when I built mine that the fairlead mount has no bends and is also tied into the lateral plate the winch sits on. Hammers design is pretty good, but some of the load paths leave alot to be deisred.
I struggle to believe that you are being realistic with the added weight. The bare top is 30 lbs more. If you have any of the additional panels or sound deadening or interior tailgate panels etc thats another 10-15 lbs. the grabber is 15 lbs more than the oem BFG (and sticking out more...
This is interesting. First time I have seen this mentioned, but one of my doors has always sounded different than the other three when closing. Almost more "tinny". How did you diagnose? Or did you removed the door card and inner panel?
https://shop.app/products/10240994115906/bronco-sway-bar-disconnect-override Something like this intrigues me. I wish there was more info about this. Seems that it is just emulating the stock signals to the computer and allowing for manual operation (or removal).
I have a 4 door 2.7 badlands non-Sas. Leveled (+1 front, -.5 rear) with the stock 33s and the tracked lifetime average is 18.0. The computer shows the lifetime average at 19.1. This is over 49k miles. Mix of city and highway. Best tank was 22.2, on I10 with a tail wind at 70. My wife...
If I recall it is the same intercooler as the wagner, and it came with an adapter and instructions. I think you have to trim one of the oem lines and fit the adapter. I can go look for my instructions and see what it said.
I have modified my non-sas badlands with a very similar approach in mind. I did the 4wp coilovers to gain some travel, but I actually went with slightly softer springs to keep the ride height (and CG) on 35s low. With IFS the ride height is pretty irrelevent until you are dragging front skids...
This is the most absurd part here. That is INSANE for a clutch and slave R+R. Do they have a break down of that price. You could pull the engine out and replace the clutch on a stand for that cost.
I needed it for the wagner intercooler install. You can do it without, but the quality of the rivnut install is much better with a rivnut tool. I used the harbor freight special and it worked great.
using the correct drill size for a m8 rivnut is also critical. Don't just use the closest...
Recently spent a few days in moab and did shafer, along with top of the world, hells revenege, fins, tower arch etc. We ran 18 psi the whole time including driving to and from the trails. We were on 38x13.5s so I would probably stick with 22 or so on the stock 35s. Keep highway speeds to 50...
I tend to agree here. I have ridden with people that are "well seasoned in manual" and be amazed at how much they ride the clutch and misshift and have seen them blow a clutch in 200 miles of aggressive driving. The problem here is that even if it was not your fault, the images you showed...
Did they add more info. Was it overheat? overspeed? I think there is some consideration here if the slave failed and leaked and you continued to drive it which resulted in slippage and overheat. With that said when a slave fails I have never seen one fail that caused a clutch failure...