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Yep, I can practically hand tighten them to that torque spec. Was really surprised how little force it takes to get to that torque rating.
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Just did mine this week, it took about 40 minutes. The only annoying part was the foam cover on the pass side.... Makes me wonder why it even there lol...
this was MUCH easier than my 12' raptor with two plugs / cylinder and the bottoms hidden behind the spring towers under the engine..... truly ugly....
this was MUCH easier than my 12' raptor with two plugs / cylinder and the bottoms hidden behind the spring towers under the engine..... truly ugly....
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It's there for noise reduction. The HPFP is LOUD under normal operation...Ford doesn't want people thinking they're truck is Broken
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Appreciate the note, I have to admit that between the wind noise, the stereo and my mud tires I couldn't hear a locomotive horn outside much less my own engine.
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@ZFGracing , gap advice for the Ruthenium plugs in a Raptor on E50 Race tune? I will also run a 91 E10 race tune, so hopefully a single gap will work across your various tunes.
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026-028 is all you need. I've ran that for almost 1yr, stock turbos, and bigger. 91>E85.
Add to old post…
The NGK Website is beating most on price. I ordered 12 to get the additional discount. For 12x NGK 95605 LTR7BHX Ruthenium HX. Qty: 1-11 @ $13.50, 12+ @ $12.15. 12 for $146.
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95605-ltr7bhx-ruthenium-hx-plug
The NGK Website is beating most on price. I ordered 12 to get the additional discount. For 12x NGK 95605 LTR7BHX Ruthenium HX. Qty: 1-11 @ $13.50, 12+ @ $12.15. 12 for $146.
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95605-ltr7bhx-ruthenium-hx-plug
They're $9.32 each on Rockauto.com.
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That’s a great price for them.
For the 6 or 7… I’ve found the 6 temp a lot less.
edit- looked it up, on Rockauto, I found the 90495, it’s a 6 temp. That’s a normal price for the LTR6BHX
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...turbocharged,3458512,ignition,spark+plug,7212
Can you provide the URL link if the 7 temp ?
Last edited:
Replacing Opinion:
Ease of Replacing Plugs... Somewhere it was mentioned above or other thread that it was relatively easy to replace the spark plugs on the 3.0L. Others indicated it was a challenge and the parts needed to be removed.
I purchased 12 new plugs (listed above post #39), and wasn't sure if it would be a quick or entailed R&R of Plugs. At first examination, right side (passenger) back 2 plugs did look a little challenging. Incidentally, OEM was gaped at 0.31, moving to the 1 step colder, smaller 0.28 gap did seem to improve the engine's performance.
For Others pondering a DIY, it's a relatively simplistic task. Only thing I had to remove was the S&B Intake tube (I don't recall what the OEM Intake tube blocked). Everything else remained and presented no challenge to work around. Removing Coil Pack bolts, allowed coil to be rotated slightly... allowing them to clear and be removed.
These were so simple compared to previous newer vehicles... like the 5.7 in my Jeep Cherokee (16 plugs). In prior life, I was a GM Mst Tech and Tech School Instructor back in 80-90's, and several vehicles in that Era were a PITA... removing parts, hoist up & down, some through fender, etc. So the simplistic access on this Engine was a nice design... Thanks Ford.
If you have a narrow spark plug mag socket on a ball 10-12" extension... it's an easy DIY task, no dealer needed... about 1 hour taking it easy. You should also entertain a spark plug gap block... makes it easier to get precise gaps on these tiny electrode plugs.
Ease of Replacing Plugs... Somewhere it was mentioned above or other thread that it was relatively easy to replace the spark plugs on the 3.0L. Others indicated it was a challenge and the parts needed to be removed.
I purchased 12 new plugs (listed above post #39), and wasn't sure if it would be a quick or entailed R&R of Plugs. At first examination, right side (passenger) back 2 plugs did look a little challenging. Incidentally, OEM was gaped at 0.31, moving to the 1 step colder, smaller 0.28 gap did seem to improve the engine's performance.
For Others pondering a DIY, it's a relatively simplistic task. Only thing I had to remove was the S&B Intake tube (I don't recall what the OEM Intake tube blocked). Everything else remained and presented no challenge to work around. Removing Coil Pack bolts, allowed coil to be rotated slightly... allowing them to clear and be removed.
These were so simple compared to previous newer vehicles... like the 5.7 in my Jeep Cherokee (16 plugs). In prior life, I was a GM Mst Tech and Tech School Instructor back in 80-90's, and several vehicles in that Era were a PITA... removing parts, hoist up & down, some through fender, etc. So the simplistic access on this Engine was a nice design... Thanks Ford.
If you have a narrow spark plug mag socket on a ball 10-12" extension... it's an easy DIY task, no dealer needed... about 1 hour taking it easy. You should also entertain a spark plug gap block... makes it easier to get precise gaps on these tiny electrode plugs.
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