Alternator Upgrade

[zuke]

I certainly do not want to add to the confusion within this thread. I slept at home last night.

You cannot measure DC Amps with a ”current loop” like the one that was shown at the beginning of this thread.

Perhaps you can read alternator output current with one, though I have never tried it.

I switched over to an Ideal 61-747 when the readings were inconsistent with the Innova, It seemed to work and give me readings I could interpret, But it is a loop/clamp meter so maybe the whole test was invalid?

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[zuke]

By chance, is your stereo AMP ground connected to the negative battery terminal or the Bronco ground buss which is downstream of the battery current measuring “shunt”?

Good question, But no, that would put them outside the Battery Monitoring system, so I have them grounded to the body with an 8 gauge wire from the amp rack.

 

[zuke]

12.3 is low
Check battery voltage after it sits overnight without turning key on with volt meter.

Cold measurements at the battery in the morning have been 12.3 to 12.4 since I started checking the behavior Monday. I do suspect the battery isn't great, I haven't been good to it with winching and sitting listening to the radio while not running.

 

[LockedBronco]

Cold measurements at the battery in the morning have been 12.3 to 12.4 since I started checking the behavior Monday. I do suspect the battery isn't great, I haven't been good to it with winching and sitting listening to the radio while not running.

The alternator is controlled by the computer so if voltage reading is low it will try to charge it back up. Which is why I'm wondering if it's at 15volts all the time.

 

[RHeinz]

I switched over to an Ideal 61-747 when the readings were inconsistent with the Innova, It seemed to work and give me readings I could interpret, But it is a loop/clamp meter so maybe the whole test was invalid?

You need alternating current to use that type of current measuring device. Also, I’m not sure you will get readings from a alternator output with a current loop (clamp on current meter) since it is pulsed DC not “full” AC.

As far as I’m aware, DC current can only be measured with a shunt, which measures the voltage drop across a known resistance, from which the DC current can be calculated.

 

[CarbonBronco]

Currently I’m working with DC Power engineering on an alternator upgrade for the bronco. They have been building high output alternators for a lot of makes and models for almost 2 decades. They are going to be billet cased or cast case of your choosing, all brand new internals and not rebuilt or rewound alternators like 90% of the stuff on the market. I’ve been using there stuff for over a decade on my builds with excellent results.
They are working on the plugs nessesary to be a direct drop in as well as the complexity of our electrical system.

 

[LockedBronco]

You need alternating current to use that type of current measuring device. Also, I’m not sure you will get readings from a alternator output with a current loop (clamp on current meter) since it is pulsed DC not “full” AC.

As far as I’m aware, DC current can only be measured with a shunt, which measures the voltage drop across a known resistance, from which the DC current can be calculated.

You can use a clamp on AMP meter for DC

 

[RHeinz]

You can use a clamp on AMP meter for DC

Thanks! I officially stand corrected!

I’ll check it out tomorrow.

 

[zuke]

You need alternating current to use that type of current measuring device. Also, I’m not sure you will get readings from a alternator output with a current loop (clamp on current meter) since it is pulsed DC not “full” AC.

As far as I’m aware, DC current can only be measured with a shunt, which measures the voltage drop across a known resistance, from which the DC current can be calculated.

The one I'm using says it can read up to 400a DC through the clamp leads, it actually has separate dial settings for DC and AC amps.. I linked it in my first response if you want to look at it. It could be snake oil though..

 

[zuke]

The alternator is controlled by the computer so if voltage reading is low it will try to charge it back up. Which is why I'm wondering if it's at 15volts all the time.

This is starting to look like the most plausible explanation, I would have expected a low battery voltage warning versus the charging error I did get though..

 

[popo_patty]

Currently I’m working with DC Power engineering on an alternator upgrade for the bronco. They have been building high output alternators for a lot of makes and models for almost 2 decades. They are going to be billet cased or cast case of your choosing, all brand new internals and not rebuilt or rewound alternators like 90% of the stuff on the market. I’ve been using there stuff for over a decade on my builds with excellent results.
They are working on the plugs nessesary to be a direct drop in as well as the complexity of our electrical system.

Very interested. Are they going to do a little better in the water/mud then Fords?

 

[CarbonBronco]

Very interested. Are they going to do a little better in the water/mud then Fords?

I am working on it with them. I’ll keep you informed as much as I can.

 

[popo_patty]

I am working on it with them. I’ll keep you informed as much as I can.

Love it! Yea check out Gold Country Broncos on FB and feel free to advertise it once it comes out. I know several of our members would love to have it

 

[LockedBronco]

This is starting to look like the most plausible explanation, I would have expected a low battery voltage warning versus the charging error I did get though..

Checked voltage at battery this morning 29° outside
At battery 12.1 volts not running
Running at battery is 15 volts
Dash reading 15.3
No warning lights

 

[KABQ]

I haven't stayed at any hotels recently, but I am an aircraft mechanic. None of your readings seem extreme, and since the system is digitally controlled it isn't unusual to get large variations in how it chooses to charge the battery (especially with an AGM). It's possible that the battery is marginal, hence the low 12.1V when cold, but otherwise it seems like everything is working as it should and is generally up to the task.

I've been thinking for a while that for some reason the BMS likes to run the system at a slight deficit rather than fully charge the battery. Your observations seem to be in line with this, and others have noted it as well. I'm not that familiar with AGMs, but perhaps this is meant to protect the battery in some way.

Edited to note: 12.1V was a different member.

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