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Bmadda

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What you need is an inductive amp probe and a multimeter. Turn on all these accessories at idle, and see what they draw. Voltage is misleading because it will rise and fall w/demand on the system. 250A is HUGE for an alternator...although the newer alternators are much more powerful than what we used to have!
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zuke

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Is it staying that high all the time? Every start up?
It's staying around 14.6v and up, yes... I've seen it drop down to a 13.6 once, on a "Warm Start" after gassing up, but by the time I got out of the gas station it was back up.

The P0562 has only happened once, and the code itself points to the voltage being lower than what the PCM has told the alternator to produce. So I suspect the regulator in the Alternator might be marginal.. If I'm not getting constant DTC's I have to assume the PCM is telling it to go that high, which leads me to believe I have current demands that high...
 
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zuke

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What you need is an inductive amp probe and a multimeter. Turn on all these accessories at idle, and see what they draw. Voltage is misleading because it will rise and fall w/demand on the system. 250A is HUGE for an alternator...although the newer alternators are much more powerful than what we used to have!
Got one, It's difficult to find a single point to check the whole system because of the wiring harness layout (No real single point to check cause my clamp isn't big enough to do the big bundles coming off the battery) This is my multimeter. to show the clamp;
Ford Bronco Alternator Upgrade automotive-dmm-3340-1_720x720


I did measure the Amplifiers' current with it, that was a max of 38 Amps with a pretty punchy song at 24.... I should be able to measure the steering rack the same way.... But I got some other stuff I gotta do before the parts counter closes, so,

to be continued....
 

Ground_zero298

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It's staying around 14.6v and up, yes... I've seen it drop down to a 13.6 once, on a "Warm Start" after gassing up, but by the time I got out of the gas station it was back up.

The P0562 has only happened once, and the code itself points to the voltage being lower than what the PCM has told the alternator to produce. So I suspect the regulator in the Alternator might be marginal.. If I'm not getting constant DTC's I have to assume the PCM is telling it to go that high, which leads me to believe I have current demands that high...
That’s what I’m confused about. Every time I’ve been at 15 volts was during the day. Really no electrical extras running. Just some running leds and radio/amp on at low volume. Have seen it with a full trickle charge and with out on the battery. Seems to happen just driving normally. I’ve noted it 6 times. 2 times it stayed at 15 until shut off. Other 4 it came back down then fluctuated normally (13-14 range)

When I’ve run everything at once I’m in the norm range of 13.5-14.6. That was 4 trips with everything on for 2+ hours at a time. I know my aux lights alone are pulling close to 90 amps with another 50+ for my jl amp on full tilt. Then the normal truck stuff.

I was worried about the full load but I’ve not had a issue yet. Everything has run like it should. No idle issue or dimming. I checked multiple times just flipping everything on at once. No weird or low voltage or charging issues either with everything on.

Hope you get it figured out. Interested to know.
 

Jdc

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So he’s not right. OP was clearly talking about the draw of the inverter. Not the output of it.
Oh I'm definitely still right. The 400 watts is the max output. The inverter takes the 12v DC from the battery and converts it to 120v AC at the outlet. So it's 400/120 not 12
 

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Oh I'm definitely still right. The 400 watts is the max output. The inverter takes the 12v DC from the battery and converts it to 120v AC at the outlet. So it's 400/120 not 12

Yep that is right, Congratulations!

That also has nothing to do with what this whole post is dedicated to, and certainly has no impact on which size alternator is being used.

2+2=4. I can do irrelevant math also, and I didn’t even stay at a Holiday Inn!
 

Jdc

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Yep that is right, Congratulations!

That also has nothing to do with what this whole post is dedicated to, and certainly has no impact on which size alternator is being used.

2+2=4. I can do irrelevant math also, and I didn’t even stay at a Holiday Inn!
Except if you look at the OP's original post he mentioned the potential max draw of the inverter.... So again reading comprehension
 

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Except if you look at the OP's original post he mentioned the potential max draw of the inverter.... So again reading comprehension
Max draw of the inverter (what OP is talking about) is not the same as inverter output (what you’re talking about)

So yes.. reading comprehension.
 

Bmadda

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Got one, It's difficult to find a single point to check the whole system because of the wiring harness layout (No real single point to check cause my clamp isn't big enough to do the big bundles coming off the battery) This is my multimeter. to show the clamp;
automotive-dmm-3340-1_720x720.png


I did measure the Amplifiers' current with it, that was a max of 38 Amps with a pretty punchy song at 24.... I should be able to measure the steering rack the same way.... But I got some other stuff I gotta do before the parts counter closes, so,

to be continued....
The steering rack isn't a continous load. Its fused at 80A, but only would get close to that draw when turned hard over and held there. Doubtful your upgrade plays any role in the overall amperage budget (considering the original rack drew close to the same, for street purposes at least). I would clamp the inductive pickup to the alternator main lead, then check power output at no load idle, then turn on accessories and watch the output. Remeber "surge load" will be handled by the battery, but the alternator will need to make up that amperage use over time, so give it a few minutes of runtime at high load to see if it gets even close to its max rating...my bet is it doesn't...but 38A of audio is nuts also! Must be one "bumpin system"!
 

Jdc

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Max draw of the inverter (what OP is talking about) is not the same as inverter output (what you’re talking about)

So yes.. reading comprehension.
The max draw of the inverter is nowhere close to 40 amps. Surge output of most inverters is usually 2x it's standard output so at most 6.66 amps. You really like being wrong. This is fun.
 

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Ducati1098

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The max draw of the inverter is nowhere close to 40 amps. Surge output of most inverters is usually 2x it's standard output so at most 6.66 amps. You really like being wrong. This is fun.
Inverter draw on the vehicle’s electrical system for a 400 watt inverter at 12V (because this is what a vehicles electrical system is , NOT 120V) is 33.3 Amps, which is what OP was talking about. He was clearly just rounding up to ~40 Amps. Vehicle running at 14-15V it would be about 26-28 Amps.

Your comment, saying
“Watts = volts *amps. 400watts/120v=3.33 amp”

This is NOT the draw of the inverter.

These are two completely separate things. You’re obviously confused about the difference between the draw on the vehicle from the inverter, and the output of the inverter. Nobody cares about the maximum output. The whole point of this post was talking about maximum DRAW on the electrical system. I don’t know how to dumb it down anymore so you’ll understand it 🤷‍♂️
Either way, I’m done wasting my time.
 
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zuke

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The max draw of the inverter is nowhere close to 40 amps. Surge output of most inverters is usually 2x it's standard output so at most 6.66 amps. You really like being wrong. This is fun.
You are so wrong it's becoming laughable.....

Learn what Amperage, Wattage, and Voltage are;

https://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm

Then come back to this thread and admit you're wrong, or just learn what they are, and don't come back to this thread. Your choice....
 

Jdc

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zuke

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Alright, well I said I'm not an electrical engineer. Turns out those were holiday inn commercials were just marketing
Thanks for coming back and admitting it, My respect for you just grew quite a bit.
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