7 Stupid Ford (EcoBoost) Engine Habits that are KILLING your Turbo

[RynoRanger]

Found this video today talking about maintenance and usage tips to prolong the EcoBoost engines in our Broncos. Most of us will know about these but sounds like he's talking from a lot of experience working on these engines and if anything a couple of the reminders seem good to review.

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[userdude]

So a banana in the tailpipe is a bad thing??

 

[brkdncr]

This forum mobile app is wacky. Can’t open that video in the browser or YouTube app.

the video is full of stock footage and samples from other peoples videos. The channel appears to be click bait.

link:

[removed, this forum is even more wacky and edited my link.]


Content:

• Hot shutdown
• Cold start without warmup.
• Wrong oil and late chsnges
• Air filter
• Boost leak
• Heat of (?)
• Ignoring turbo warning signs.

 

[Squatch]

This forum mobile app is wacky. Can’t open that video in the browser or YouTube app.

the video is full of stock footage and samples from other peoples videos. The channel appears to be click bait.

link:


Content:

• Hot shutdown
• Cold start without warmup.
• Wrong oil and late chsnges
• Air filter
• Boost leak
• Heat of (?)
• Ignoring turbo warning signs.

You forgot about the floorpan bolts exploding and firing it into the pavement in the middle of a very important race. Always check your manifold!

 

[RynoRanger]

welp. lol.

 

[Tricky Mike]

So a banana in the tailpipe is a bad thing??

Entirely personal preference.

 

[jjack50]

Found this video today talking about maintenance and usage tips to prolong the EcoBoost engines in our Broncos. Most of us will know about these but sounds like he's talking from a lot of experience working on these engines and if anything a couple of the reminders seem good to review.

Pretty stupid looking thumbnail. That's enough to prevent me from watching such a "clickbait looking" video. Nobody's turbo looks like that on a road car.

 

[3People1Body]

Pretty stupid looking thumbnail. That's enough to prevent me from watching such a "clickbait looking" video. Nobody's turbo looks like that on a road car.

Funny, I saw this video's thumbnail and passed it up... All because the stupid turbo appearance.

 

[N8do]

Wow, this was verry appreciated info, especially to all of us new to the turbo scene.
My concern now is using the advice of going from a Syn-blend to the Full-Syn.
Absolutely agree with everyone on other 6G posts concerning the "Oil Life Indicator" and its reality. I will continue to change it every 5K, at 50% and not wait, due to the turbos effect on oil life. Why the heck it would even suggest 10K with the onboard system is suspect.

 

[BroncoChallenger]

Wow, this was verry appreciated info, especially to all of us new to the turbo scene.
My concern now is using the advice of going from a Syn-blend to the Full-Syn.
Absolutely agree with everyone on other 6G posts concerning the "Oil Life Indicator" and its reality. I will continue to change it every 5K, at 50% and not wait, due to the turbos effect on oil life. Why the heck it would even suggest 10K with the onboard system is suspect.

It suggests 10k based on a couple things - tighter tolerancing of the engine itself, and planned obsolescence. They really want people buying new cars at 100k and after that they just don't care about them, they could go to a landfill or recycle yard for all they care.

All that said, the list someone posted above is actually pretty common knowledge in the diesel world, since we've had turbos for decades as almost standard equipment.

If you've been working the turbo hard (pulling, hard accelerations, exhaust braking, etc), you need to let it cool down some before shutting down, to let the oil take away some of the heat from the bearings. A couple minutes at most is all that's necessary.

You also don't want to start hammering on it right after a start, when it has gotten down to ambient temps. A few minutes of idling is good for the turbo at least, as it lets the oil get warmed up and flowing.

Absolutely want to run a good quality oil and change it based on usage. I tend to stick with 5k, less if you're working it hard all the time.

The rest of it is basic maintenance of at least looking under the hood once in a while and listening for any odd noises, or any abnormal readings from whatever gauges you have available.

 

[Pokey_Cacti]

Nothing new here from a longer-term turbo operator perspective, although I'm surprised he didnt whine about the auto start-stop feature, I always turn that off when starting the car, part of my routine procedure. Coking on journal bearings is particularly bad, and idling your engine after running a turbo engine before shutting it off is always a good idea. Oil maintenance, e.g., clean oil that can flush the journal as well as lubricate and cool is important. If you're concerned about this, then sample & test your oil at oil changes, too. And always change your oil filter with the oil on turbo engines. Finally, full synthetic oil typically is more resistant to breakdown at higher temps than a blend or mineral oil, so use full synthetic.

 

[GoHawks63]

I didn't think it was a useless video, especially for people who haven't owned a turbo equipped vehicle. I had a BMW X5 before the Bronco and was familiar with much of what was covered, especially the fact about idling a bit and letting the turbo cool down after it has been under load.

Other stuff, like frequent oil changes, not getting on it when it's cold and using synthetic is not new and applies whether your vehicle has forced induction or is naturally aspirated.

 

[broncobase1]

Just drive your Bronco normally, you don't have to worry about the turbo.

 

[JediMcMuffin]

I mean, not bad, but basically a better version of this video already exists:

 

[broncobase1]

It suggests 10k based on a couple things - tighter tolerancing of the engine itself, and planned obsolescence. They really want people buying new cars at 100k and after that they just don't care about them, they could go to a landfill or recycle yard for all they care.

All that said, the list someone posted above is actually pretty common knowledge in the diesel world, since we've had turbos for decades as almost standard equipment.

If you've been working the turbo hard (pulling, hard accelerations, exhaust braking, etc), you need to let it cool down some before shutting down, to let the oil take away some of the heat from the bearings. A couple minutes at most is all that's necessary.

You also don't want to start hammering on it right after a start, when it has gotten down to ambient temps. A few minutes of idling is good for the turbo at least, as it lets the oil get warmed up and flowing.

Absolutely want to run a good quality oil and change it based on usage. I tend to stick with 5k, less if you're working it hard all the time.

The rest of it is basic maintenance of at least looking under the hood once in a while and listening for any odd noises, or any abnormal readings from whatever gauges you have available.

"planned obsolescence' Show me where this is official policy? Sure they want to sell vehicles, but nobody is going to buy them if they last only 100K miles. If "planned obsolescence" sells cars, Toyota should have been bankrupt decades ago. If I didn't trust my Bronco go 300K miles with good care I would sell it tomorrow.

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